huntnxs Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 First of all, let me say thank you for all the help that this site has offered me in my new endeavor (or curse) of lure making. My buddy told me this stuff was going to be addicting and he was right. This site has without a doubt saved me countless hours of trial and error and I'll thank you for your responses in advance since I know someone out there knows what I'm doing wrong or what I'm missing. I found only a few posts on adding glitter to spinnerbait blades. I am looking for the type of finish that is on the Nichols blades. It is similar to the SOB spinnerbait blades but with some color variations that I'm sure I can get using different colored glitters. My problem is when I add my glitter to the Devcon and brush it on, it looks like crap once it dries. It's not smooth at all and the finish looks dull which I expected some, just not that much. Definately not as bright as the Nichols blades. First, I tried hanging it to let it dry and like I figured it ran to the bottom. Not a problem, next time I will put it on the drying wheel. It didn't run to the bottom of the blade, but still does not finish clear, smooth, and clean looking. Next, I thought I would use something different to see if I could get it to smooth out so I used high build flex coat, brushed it on, put it on the wheel, and ended up with the same results. Flex coat takes forever to dry, I put it on the wheel for two hours and then hung them up. Came back two days later, grabbed the blade, and put a beautiful thumb print right in the middle of the blade. How long does this stuff take to dry? My question: What is the best way to do this? Am I using the wrong stuff? Am I doing something wrong? I've also read posts saying that people have trouble with the glitter not staying on the blade. I haven't tried one out yet, but I would hate to spend a week making the blade and then it comes off it a couple of hours of fishing. What can I do to add some durabilty to it if this is a problem? I did order a catalog from WTB to look at the glitter tape. He said they didn't really carry the glitter tape anymore but did have some old stock that might work for me. He said they were doing more of the holographic films now and encourage me to take a look at it. Sorry so long winded but wanted you to know that I tried to find the answer before I posted my problem. Thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Welcometo TU. I would not have expected a problem with mixing the glitter into the D2T, but I have never messed with glitter. Seems to me the glitter is breaking the surface. Maybe you should add the glitter before the top coat, hold it in place with a spray glue. Alternatively, a second coat of D2T, not ideal, as you are probably doubling the thickness of your blade. Thinking harder about the problem, the glitter cannot reach the surface if it is thoroughly mixed and every piece of glitter is fully coated. SO in conclusion, I think the problem is insufficient mixing, it is a surface tension thing. I'm sure some more experienced members are going to jump in here. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huntnxs Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Thanks Dave, I can put the Devcon and glitter mixture on the spinnerbait body and put it on the wheel and it looks great. I just can't seem to get it to look good on the blades. The blades feel smooth to the touch, they just don't look good. It's like there are places on the blade that are streaked and hazy. There are parts of the blade that do look OK, it's just not consistent over the whole blade. Some of the bad places even look like there not the same thickness sort of like when you put too much paint on a wall and it runs. The flex coat had more good spots than bad but still didn't give the pure finish like I thought it would have and still showed the same type of bad places. Thanks for the imput, Stacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munkin Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 They make different clear spray clears with glitter in rattle cans. I would worry the Devcon would upset the blade balance. Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 First of all it would be nice to see a pic of the Nichols or the SOB blades that you are talking about. Call me stupid, but I have never heard of them. Secondly it would be nice to show pics of your blades for everyone here to see what you are trying to achieve. Nonetheless, I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 I only use a top coat on larger colored blades for the reason Munkin stated, it really unbalanced the smaller blades but had no effect on the bigger ones, #4.5 and #5 blades worked well. As for your problem, it sounds as if the devcon is too thick, you brush it on and when it dries it seems dull and you can see the brush strokes. I had this problem with some jigs and all I did was use a small amount of denatured alcohol to thin the devcon out and it was perfect. Thinning it out will increase the drying time slightly but not enough to be concerned about. That being said, I do basically what Cadman does, I use the clear powder with the glitter in it and I have never had an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 @ huntnxs Here are some pics about plating my homemade spoons with glitter chips , I just sprinkle these onto wet top gloss . Using 2 component clear gloss used in the auto industry , which starts to set on the workpiece within minutes , so no dripping , just leaving them laying on an old kitchen board to dry thorougly . Requires 2 to 4 coats on top of the glitter to finally bond them firmly , provides quite a resistant surface , but is also quite rough . If you only want a few flakes to "sparkle" on the blade , take some "glitter jelly" or "glitter glue"(a waterbased jelly containing metal flakes) and apply with your finger , after curing topcoat it . Don't think , that it bonds very well on polished metal surfaces , painted or somehow buffed blades would hold up better , I guess . good luck:yay: , diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) @ huntnxsHere are some pics about plating my homemade spoons with glitter chips , I just sprinkle these onto wet top gloss . Using 2 component clear gloss used in the auto industry , which starts to set on the workpiece within minutes , so no dripping , just leaving them laying on an old kitchen board to dry thorougly . Requires 2 to 4 coats on top of the glitter to finally bond them firmly , provides quite a resistant surface , but is also quite rough . If you only want a few flakes to "sparkle" on the blade , take some "glitter jelly" or "glitter glue"(a waterbased jelly containing metal flakes) and apply with your finger , after curing topcoat it . Don't think , that it bonds very well on polished metal surfaces , painted or somehow buffed blades would hold up better , I guess . good luck:yay: , diemai Diemai Those blades are beautiful. I would like to take some glitter lessons from you for some spinnerbaits I have in mind. Can you tell me what glitter you use, and what kind of top coat and or base coat? If not that's OK or we can discuss off line. We all have are own little secrets, that keeps us unique. Edited January 11, 2009 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) @ cadman If I would mind sharing , I would not have posted at all ! And I guess , I won't even hijack this thread too much , since the subject is about the topic of the thread , I guess . Alright , but the problem is , that I am in Germany and I purchase the glitter flakes and topcoat from a local component mail order shop . So I can't give you any hints where to buy such in the United States . The cleargloss is described in their catalog as being origined from the auto industry and free from any solvents . And I remember to have read about such stuff here on TU recently before . It is quite smelly once mixed . The stuff is mixed 2:1(resin:hardener) and is much more fluid than epoxy , but provides a thinner coat . It does not drip , since it sets quite fast once it#s applied on a surface . Even in the mixing bin it starts to set to a jelly like consistency after approx. 20 min , you can still brush it at this stage , but you must apply more not to leave brush marks on your surface , since it starts to stick to previously applied strokes at this stage . I apply it also onto my wooden lures on top of two epoxy coats , since it cures a little harder than my epoxy does . Those glitter flakes come in different colors , I don't know any US mail order , that offers such , but you can check shops for home crafting , glass painting , sculpturing model clay , jewelry making , etc . , those craft things , that most likely ladies do . These shops should have such dry glitter chips and also the previously mentioned "glitter jelly" in multiple colors . The shop's site , where I get the stuff , is : HAKUMA ihr Spezialist für Köder, Kunstköder, Meeresangeln, Raubfisch angeln, Pilker, Wobbler, Fischen, Bleiguss, Formen, Ruten, Rollen, Dorsch angeln, Leng angeln in Norwegen, Dänemark, Hitra . Sorry , no English version available , I guess . To coat my homemade spoons (always do top side only) , I'd first buff the surface to clean off all corrosion layers(often use scrap metal) and to roughen up for better adhesion . Works with a rotating steel bristle brush , coarse sandpaper or even fine sandblasting alike . Apply one layer of top gloss and sprinkle on glitter flakes instantly , do this over a clean and kinked piece of paper , so that you gan gather remainder of chips again . After curing gently knock on workpiece , all lose particles would fall off , gather these again to re-use . If coverage is not sufficient , repeat process once more , but this is most likely not neccessary ! After paint over 2 to 4 times , this "bakes" the glitter particles together and makes the surface a bit more smooth(the smaller your particles are , the smoother the surface becomes) . This glitter/topgloss layer is quite resistant against abuse , of course at frequent rock , - or mussel contact it would come off in small chips at the edge of the spoon , but won't fail in larger portions . When mounting splitrings , try keeping these open with pliers , so they won't scratch over the finish . You can also paint patterns on top of the glitter coat , off course you need to re-coat in this case over the paint to protect it . Sorry , that I can't provide more assistance in terms of purchasing the material , especially the topcoat , try making a search in here , it was definately mentioned in here somewhere . For further questions feel free to contact me . good luck , diemai PS : Just an idea ....maybe the plastic pouring folks would know as well about sources for glitter flakes , since I guess , it is much of the same stuff embedded into their lures ? Edited January 11, 2009 by diemai text addition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huntnxs Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Thanks for the replies! I will try to get you a picture of the blades up for you to see soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...