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Jig Man

Rip rap jig head

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One of my favorite spots is a 1 mile long dam rip rap. On a good day I can get by with 6 baits. On a bad day it may be 2 dozen. The last time I fished it was with some experimental baits and I lost over 2 dozen.

I have tried football, round, minnow head, arke, poison tail, and banana jigs. The banana seems to be the least hanging of the bunch. I have modified the banana to replace the hook eye and hook configuration and it is a little better.

Have any of you guys found a secret jig weapon for nasty, narly, rip rap rocks?

BTW: I never go after a hung up bait that doesn't have Lucky Craft printed on it someplace.

Edited by Jig Man
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Hey, rip rap dams are my fave too! Are you guys walking or floating? What species are you targeting? My jig master mentor likes the slow falling bump nose Cabela's Wobble jig head for riding over rocks with hook point upright. Jig Man, have you tried micro fiber to enable downsizing jig weight? Haven't tried yet but wonder if bending hook points down towards the shank EWG style would make it harder to point snag rocks?

Edited by hawnjigs
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I am bass fishing from a boat. The worst day I have had was with ewg hooks used in my tubes and arke heads.

Please explain micro fiber for downsizing jig weight.

WOW I looked up that Cabela's jig head. They sure are prowd of them. At that price it might cost $50 to fish the rip rap on a bad day.

Edited by Jig Man
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Hey, rip rap dams are my fave too! Are you guys walking or floating? What species are you targeting? My jig master mentor likes the slow falling bump nose Cabela's Wobble jig head for riding over rocks with hook point upright. Jig Man, have you tried micro fiber to enable downsizing jig weight? Haven't tried yet but wonder if bending hook points down towards the shank EWG style would make it harder to point snag rocks?

No No No! the CWJ's are no good for that!!!:nono:

SHHHHHHHHH! Hawnjigs!:wink:

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I agree with Basseducer, the problem is wedging in between rocks.

One possible solution would be weed guard type material comming out each side of the body. The side protrusion would be about 5mm so as not to interfere with the bite and improve stiffness. The side guard would contact the rock face and transmit resistance. This will give you the opportunity to jerk the lure free with an upward motion, before the lead makes contact.

Just an idea.

Dave

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I think the Cabelas wobble head is the best for rip rap as well. I have three molds and worth every cent. Two are modified with pics to see what I mean. The best one I think would be the screw lock added to help stopping the hook from grabbing a rock. That is JB weld in the spot for the barb making it a little lighter. The flat head seams to pull around the rocks at times deforming but still works. The second pick is the hook reversed so it is more like the gravedigger. Swims deep faster with less weight. It digs in the gravel or sand with out picking up every thing. I like to use it from a boat along sharp drop offs like dams. Buy the mold will be cheaper than buying every jig.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4038&stc=1&d=1231868726

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4039&stc=1&d=1231868726

Edited by kelly
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Hey Jig Man, I have a stretch of rip-rap here in Missouri that I like to fish also and had the same problem. I have a jig that is better than a banana in my opinion. Not going to save every jig but I loose fewer. The eye is part of the head. The jig is called the Hid-N-Eye and if you PM me with your address, I'll send you a couple to try out for free. Look at my website and let me know what color and weight. www.eironjig.com

Matt Eisenbacher

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I fish jettys in the ocean and we use arke heads 1/2oz or heavier. We only lose normally 3-4 heads for 8-10 hours of fishing normally. I always found that the way you fish and your feel affect loss. If you dont know if its a fish hold your rod dead still, dont set. When you feel you are getting hung dont steadly pull as hard as you can, hold your rod up really high and and jig or slightly pop you rod till the jig frees. Dont trim your weed guard way down, leave it as long as you can. Our jigs come as molded with the end of the weedguard still melted togather and i just trim off the end so they are free.When you are hund and it doesnt pop loose, again dont pull. Position your boat with just a barely tight line in the exact opposite direct of your cast then drop you tip just a bit and get a tad more horizontal andgle and give it a few pops and then pull a bit to get it loose, same premise as unsetting and anchor. Lastly check you line often, ours really get beat up, i use #17 big gane but have been threatening to try some 20#. I hope it helps

Lastly you should be using a fairly stiff rod, i like 7' mh. A med rod will be to mushy and probably cause your jigs to pull and burry more than to pop free much less sucky hook sets. The length also help with popping a jig loose, i often will hold the rod up real high with one arm and pop the jig loose.

Edited by robbor
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Sorry if I offended you Vodkaman, just wanting to help someone out. Not trying to make a big sale. If the board moderator wants to pull the website link off, he's welcome to. If I was just trying sell, I wouldn't give away something and I'd pimp the product more. Not what I was trying to do. I've gave some hooks to Cadman, he asked for help and I had some. No need to buy a pile just to try it. Isn't that what this forum is for, helping each other? In the future I'll just PM someone if I think I can help. I'm not trying to break the posting rules.

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Matt, fair enough.

Here is a CAD model of what I had in mind in post No2. But instead of the side weed guards, the side bumps are molded into the lead body.

The idea is that the bumps get trapped first, providing a weak point, allowing the jig to be jerked free. The idea probably needs more thought though, maybe angling the bumps downwards.

The finish would be severely damaged, but at least you would not have to strain the line.

Dave

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VodkaMan, great idea but would you think with a lead pour the side bumps would wear off quickly? I've seen a football jig that had two wires to make it stand up. They V back under the jig. This might be an application for that but I don't know what the wires would do once in the mouth of a fish.

The hidden eye in the head allows a different pull angle and nothing for the rocks to grab. I orginally used a banana head but the chest of the jig causes it to wedge more than this jig. I'm not saying it is perfect, just that it is much better. At least with what I have experienced. The rip rap in our lakes is about 8-12 inch broken limestone. There are some pretty big cracks to get hung in. I don't think there is any one system that can overcome cracks every time.

As for how I work the jig, I typically work it just the same as any other rock. If I'm having one of "those days" where I'm losing more jigs than I should, I try to keep more tension on my line and keep moving it as it bumps the bottom. This is easier to do when the wind is not blowing and you have total control of what you are doing. Not swimming it but more of a glide along the rock surface. Seems to work when the water is hot just fine.

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Wow, my posting a link to a completed eBay auction(not mine) to show a picture, details, and value of a Cabela's Wobble Jig mold has vanished, and I was given an "infraction".

Well I wasn't offended. The CWJ's really are a good jig, and I like them down here because nobody else uses them and the fish aren't used to them.

It takes practice to fish rip rap correctly. With a presentation that attracts fish but doesn't cost you a lot of jigs. Staying just above the boulders and pecking the occasional one.

The jig with the "curb feelers" sounds like a good idea... but are fish going to bite it. My fish have a pretty good amount of fishing pressure on them and want a natural presentation and are very size sensitive.

A jig that doesn't get stuck in the rocks but doesn't catch fish either would be of little value to me.

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One thing not mentioned is your trailer. I do not know how you are threading your trailer on, but I have found that the trailer threaded on like a worm will hang up less in rocks because it makes a wider body and does not get into the cracks as well as the jigs seem to with the chunk type trailer just hanging off the rear of the hook. Works for me anyway!8O

Good Luck!

Chad

http://www.gitbit.net' rel="external nofollow">

Edited by Spike-A-Pike
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