Line pull questions

[CL Rods]

I have been experimenting with various lip materials and lip styles along with pull points to affect the action of the same body. I have noticed a number of baits built where the line pull 'LOOKS' similar to how the one in this photo is installed.

What I have found with this method is that if you really start trying to adjust the pull left or right in an effort to stress test the pull, the pull bottom wire is twisting at the connection point to the bait and ultimately will loosen to the point it won't hold the adjustment you are trying to make.

So for those folks using this method;

• how deep are you inserting the wires
  
• what gauge wire are you using
  
• what size hole are you drilling in the lip per size wire in use
  
• do you have problems with yours loosening or creating a gap
  

[KcDano]

Make the line tie more circular and make the holes spacing less than than the diameter of the line tie. This will lock the tie to the lip and prevent up and down movement. Make the bends under the lip as tight to the lip as possible.

[BobP]

There are several ways and materials to do it on bass baits. I drill a single hole and insert a hand twisted screw eye made from SOFT temper .040" stainless steel or brass. Bend it 90 degrees and crimp it over a slot cut in the rear of the lip. It's surprising stable. On lips with longer wire under the lip, I usually run a bead of epoxy between the wire and the lip surface. The soft temper ss is easier to form, easier to tune, but is still strong enough to fish without deforming. I've also seen lips done with one .040 hard temper stainless wire. The wire runs along the bottom of the lip and through a single hole, then is curled backward to form an eye for the line tie.

[CL Rods]

Thanks guys, I'll try to narrow the spacing and try the wrapping around the end of the bill.

I had been using the twisted wire approach which works well but I just like the looks of the straight wire. It looks much cleaner.