CA Delta Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 How do you keep the clearcoat out of the joints? I don't want to use D2T, maybe an auto clearcoat. Can I spray or brush this on without getting it into these areas? Any tips wuold be great, tanks, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Best to do is finish and clearcoat the bait before assembling it. Whether you can get stray clearcoat out of joints depends on the kind of joint you use. If you can reach it, a very small drill bit chucked in a Dremel tool will remove epoxy or polyurethane. You an also use a piece of straight ss wire to drill it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Delta Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Thanks Bob, I'm using the srew eye hinge pin design & I am in a bit of a pickle. I was going for the concealed look & didn't think it was going to be that big of an issue. Man was I wrong, again....Here's some pics, hope they help show my problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunnie3035 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I think this question got asked, but never really answered by anyone who knows. I had the same question, particularily on baits that are pre-assembled. So I winged it and I will tell you what I did: After talking with a friend who painted cars for a living, I bought some Upol #1 clear [automobile clear coat]. I sprayed this on a Sebile Magic Swimmer. It gives it a pretty good shine, but does not offer the protection a bait needs. What it does do is seal the paint so you can handle the lure a bit w/o rubbing any paint off. I stretched [nose to tail] it out on the lure dryer and clear coated with devcon. I did one section at a time, being real careful around the joints. It worked out real nice. You really only need the devon where the edges will bang against each other. I wouldnt go in the joints any tighter. I just did a BBZ-1 shad bait this weekend. This was a whole set of new problems; 4 sections, no rear hook hanger, soft plastic tail, soft plastic dorsal fin, ect. ect. ect.... Here is what I did: I took some rubbing alcohol and wiped off all the paint on the tail section. I was suprised at how easy this came off. Then I rolled up little pieces of painters tape and jammed them inside the hinges to keep the bait straight, but yet out of the way. I painted the bait up and cleared with the Upol #1. My biggest worry was the tail section. Plus I didn't want the bait falling off the lure turner when it was rotating so I had to drill some holes through a clamp, then wire the clam to the hook hanger. Anyway, I devconed the tail and other sections one at a time. I have absolutely no worries about the bait with exception of the soft tail. I believe if it gets bounced off too many hard objects its going to damage the clear and ultimately the paint on the tail. BUT, after seeing how easy the paint and clear coat wiped off the factory BBZ-1 I have no doubt it is in better shape than any bait you buy off the self. I don't know if any of this made sense, perhaps someone else has a better system.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunnie3035 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Sorry dude, I thought you were talking about plastic baits. That bait is a whole different can of worms.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Delta Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Thanks gunnie, sorry I should have mentioned that it's a PVC lure & put some pics out originally. I did get some helpful tips from your post. Thanks for the input, I appreciate that. Now you got me thinking about another project. Man I need to focus here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clamboni Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 CA.....I spray DNLC for my clear. What I do is pretty simple. I clear the bait, not trying not to get any in the joints, but trying not to get a lot of it on the hardware. Once it's cured enough to handle, but when it's still kind of soft and won't chip, I move the joints around to break up any clear that's in there. Just be careful not to touch the sections. You can't tell it's there if you do it in the right time frame. When you're spraying, try to make sure the screw eyes are only touching the wire, and not the wood of the next section. But like Bob said, the ideal way to do it is to clear it before it's assembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Using the pin method offers an ideal opportunity to assemble after the top coat. True, the pin will be visible, but this is not necessarily a bad thing. You are offering the owner an opportunity to be able to service his bait, should he desire. Use the exposed pin as a selling point, win win all round. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcheetam Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I stretched [nose to tail] it out on the lure dryer and clear coated with devcon. I did one section at a time, being real careful around the joints. It worked out real nice. You really only need the devon where the edges will bang against each other. I wouldnt go in the joints any tighter. gunnie- when you say you do one joint at a time, are you coating one joint, letting it cure, then doing another? Or are you coating one, then immediately moving on to the next? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigmeister Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 just use a paint brush to apply the devcon to one section at a time and let cure. mask off the sections you are not painting with devcon with masking tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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