mikejohnson22 Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Just finished making my presto pot with mixer. I used the motor from a wooden pail ice cream maker. My buddy took it to the next level. He made the the paddle and connected it to the motor. Machined everything for me. Works great but I have some questions for those of you pouring with presto pots. 1. How much plastic do you whip up at a time and whats the least amount? 2. Pouring stickbaits with the 1/2 cup of salt formula, How much color are you using to get the darker tones? 3. Are you heating slowly or set it and turn it on? 4. Heat stabilizer. How much? I realized fast that I will need alot more plastic and color, not to mention molds. Used every drop of color I had trying to tint a big pot full of plastic. My 1 0z bottles of colorant won't do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikejohnson22 Posted March 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 (edited) I typically pour using 2 cups of plastic because the pot will eat 1/2 cup. What I mean is that there will be a half cup left in the pot that you cannot pour, just take it out and add it to the next batch of that color you are pouring. As far as coloring I use 4 oz bottles and they last me about a year to a year and a half. I typically add 1 teaspoon of heat stabilizer to 2 cups depending on what I am pouring and how long the plastic will be cooking but it is about 1 teaspoon, you are better off buying your heat stabilizer by the gallon. I also add a half teaspoon of softner to 2 cups of plastic to compensate for the half cup of cooked plastic you are putting back in the pot plus any cut offs, also buy it buy the gallon. I do not slowly heat my pot I put it on the heat I want. I noticed you have a small pour spout at the bottom of your ball valve, you might find out that it will clog up on you if you stop pouring for a minute or so. I would also put a lip around your stand so that the pot cannot slid off any side, take this from experience. I also got a squirel cage fan, built a box around it and attached it to a vent hood and installed it directly over my pots. Those pots kick out ALOT of smoke. I hope this helps and you are about to go through five gallon buckets like they are free. Edited March 6, 2009 by bass100 spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WannabeeFishing Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Nice lookins setup. Should be plenty of torque for 'churning' the plastic. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass-Boys Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 very cool set up !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 In order to get the most plastic out of a pour I have my table set with a slight drop towards the spout and as soon as it gets below the paddle I cut the stirrer off and "Chock Up" the back so that all the plastic is on the spout end ... very little not used ... yes with glitter on the last few drops I have to stir it some .. Not using salt at the present .. no advice there. That is solid looking set up. JSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear21211 Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Mike, your setup looks good .You did a great job. I normally use 2 to 6 cups when using one of my pots. Bass is correct when he says there is no waste. Get you some big zip loc bags. After pot has cooled peel it out like a skin and put what is left in zip loc bag. Next time you pour that color cut that stuff up and mix it with your new plastic. Your colorants are going to differ from supplier to supplier. Some make them stronger some make them weaker. We make ours stronger there fore takes less drops. One thing I will suggest to you when you are using Salt in your baits, I would suggest you adjust the clearance between your paddle and the bottom of your pot to about 1/2" . We have had a couple guys set their paddle to close to the pot bottom and ruin the finish in the bottom of their pot. The salt is like sand paper . Your setup looks good!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 That is a really nice setup.Should give you excellent results for years to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikejohnson22 Posted March 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Thanks guys for your advice. I have alot of trial and error ahead of me. I am going to try some sticks with no salt or smaller amounts of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipLip Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Mike setup looks great. Hopefully that motor has some longevity to it because it will turn a lot. I usually pour 80 Ozs. at a time and tilt it forward at the end and just drain the access into a pyrex glass and that will go into the next pour of the same color. It does take a while to warm up so my advice if you are going to be doing back to back pours you get another setup and start warming that pot half way through the pouring of the first pot. If you reuse your plastic leftovers i would suggest warming up that plastic in a microwave before putting it into your next pour because chunks with reak havoc on your paddles and motor. Other than that your colors are on you, with whatever your looking for. As for heat stabilizer i don't use it because the plastic is always moving and i watch the temp. very closely. I have to do smaller pours for white and clear because it will discolor which may be a spot to use stabilizer but i'm not sure about that. Good luck and let us know how it all unfolds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kajan Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Looks bon' Yea, I never used less than 2 cups Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipLip Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 After looking at the pics a little more I really like your handle set up that you have that holds the motor in place. That looks like it'll make for real easy removal and install of the the stirrer every time. Mine is kind of cobbed and can be a pain every now and then. Nice touch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimcline Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Mike, the only thing I would add is you should consider getting an infrared thermometer. This will help you keep close tabs on your temp. The thermostats on my prestos are a bit off so this really cuts down on the guess work. Good luck, JIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipLip Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 I 2nd that. Very handy tool to use and you don't have to spend a lot on one either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbull Baits Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Could you put a picture of the inside bottom of the pot. I am trying to see how the valve looks when installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassRube Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Speaking of the valve...I only see horizontal valves on the presto-pots I see online. I like the vertical one much better. Did you install a new valve or did you find one that comes that way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B3BAITS Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Here are some photo's of my design the bottom nipple is a 3/8th to 1/4" reducer and a 3/8th ball valve with diff size spouts, depends on molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear21211 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Most of the ones you see with horizontal valves are used for candle making. Problem with it is to far from heating element and it will stop up to often. We locate our valve as close to element as possible and use a full 3/8th hole tapped in pot. We have had a lot less problems than when it had the 1/4" hole with 3/8" valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 I also have a different ball valve for every color I have, it saves a tremendous amount of time when switching colors because it is near impossible to clean the inside of the ball valve. At minimum you should have a different ball valve for every color of glitter or glitter combinations you use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear21211 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Wow I do not take it that far. You can get some adhesive remover and put in pot and valve and it will clean it spotless . I would go broke buying valves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 I agree it is expensive, I have about $300 in valves but my color changes are very quick and I know that I will not have any glitter contamination from one color to the next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B3BAITS Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Bear if you have a 3/8th drain to 3/8th ball valve do you have a 3/8th spigot/spout, or is it around 1/4" And do you have any issues with flooding the cavity to fast. I guess im trying to figure why its better to reduce drain size at the spigot and not the pot. Thanks for any info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear21211 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 I use the 3/8 hose barb fitting. My findings with the larger fitting I can actually get a smaller flow with less stopping up. The ball valve I use I do not have to use a bushing in pot. It has male and Female end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear21211 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 The 3/8" holds more plastic retains more heat . Also less friction so the plastic flows better. I do not have a problem at all with flooding a mold. The stream on our pots will actually get pretty fine. I found the 1/4" I kept having problems when I tried to pour small stream. 3/8" works much better for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbull Baits Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Thanks for the pics and info. It helped a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
