allenrods Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 i did like i think longhorn said mixed the elmers and water in a bottle, when removing the elmers/h2o out of the mold cavities i noticed some left in there do i need to get that out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTfishingrods Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 If it is the first coat then it possibly will soak in if its a 50/50 mix. If you want to be sure of keeping the detail I would remove it and do lots of thin coats. But thats just the way I do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 I just turn the mold over and drain and shake it a few times. On the next coat I do the same and then set the mold upside down to dry (supported on the ends by a bowl or somthing). This will help keep the distribution even. But excess is not a problem in any case...the mix and even straight Elmers dries so thin it doesn't matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artificial All The Way Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTfishingrods Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 I think you will find that there are many ways of doing everything. You need to find what works best for you. And remember that everyday is a learning experience. A great thing about POP molds is if they dont turn out right its pretty easy to toss them in the trash and start over. Your out what 2.25 in materials. And and hour in time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeeterdan Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 The last 3 pop molds that I have made, I added the 50/50 elmers and water mixture about 1 hour after the plaster was mixed and poured. The pop is still very green at this point. I only applied the elmers mix one time (coat). I have yet to see the first bubble come up. I think the elmers blends with the moisture that is in the green pop. anyone else tried this? Also, whoever came up with the tip for using 2 sided scotch tape to hold down the masters.......Thanks... best tip ever:worship: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodgervich Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I've only made 3 POP molds and did not seal with glue, I didn't have any Elmers on hand when I did the first one. I used some Wipe On Poly urethane finish and brushed a ton of it all in the cavities, it soaks in deep and I brushed in a lot in several coats right on top of the other until it was not soaking in immediately. After letting it cure for 24 hours I sprayed inside several light coats of spray polyurethane and let it cure another 24 hours. Came out fantasic, super glossy and hard and smoking hot rubber doesn't stick or cause any problems. After I did that one I read about the glue but the volumes (mold materials, not thousands of lures) I am working with are big enough that economy is gone from the start and I figured it worked the first time and stuck with it. My molds are real big and this stuff is expensive but it sure works great. One I tried to save time (and money) by using clear spray paint. NO GOOD! Did not stand up to the heat of the first pour, the rubber stuck and pulled out most of the paint coating. Some of the paint bonded to the POP really well and the rubber stuck to that and ripped off the lure leaving boogers permanently stuck to the mold. I scraped the molds clean of goo and re-sealed with urethane. the scraping left the cavities rough but I didn't want to make another mold so I hope the fish don't look too close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Minwax makes four water based wipe on polys. Are you using one of these? Water-Based Clear Protective Finishes - Minwax.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodgervich Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Exactly, I use the "Wipe On Poly". It is super thin and watery and soaks in deep immediately. I pour some in a can or old butter tub and brush it on the mold cavities with an acid brush, those little metal handle brushes. After that is the spray can polyurethane. You could probably use just one or the other but since I had both, I used both and the results were great. If you want to try the urethane I would say get a can of the spray on and do several coats, it also soaks into the POP. Put on 3-4 light passes, let soak in and dry overnight, put on another coat or two and it will lay on top leaving a nice slick surface, dry overnight again then pour. Don't go too heavy on the second coats or it WILL puddle. Did not have time to try mixing WipeOn with the water/PoP before making mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbull Baits Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 I use a 1" sponge pait brush. You need to get a few of them because they will soak up a lot of the left over glue mix. Be sure to wash them out and dry them before you use them on the second coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
