dixiet Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 When I glue my lips into place the glue (5 min epoxy) runs, Ive tried waiting for it to set up a bit before I use it so it's not so drippy but I still manage to get lots on the lip and the sides of the baits. I find I can sand the glue off the baits easy enough but is there a way to get the epoxy off the lip once it has cured. I know u can use Naptha before it cures but what about after it cures You may have a suggestion on how you install your lips on your crankbaits Thanks in Advance Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) Nothing but a chisel will remove cured epoxy from a lip. And if you use 5 min epoxy and get it on the lip, it WILL eventually turn brown. The trick is mounting the lip so that none squeezes out on the lip surface. Fill the lip slot with epoxy using a piece of wire, making sure all slot surfaces are wet with epoxy. Wipe the exterior of the slot clean with a dry cloth and then insert the dry lip (no epoxy on it). All excess epoxy gets pushed out the sides at the rear of the lip. If you butter the lip with epoxy some of it will always get pushed out onto the lip's surface. No worry if there is a small void between the slot and lip at the nose of the bait. The clearcoat fills that. I cut a couple of slots in the back of the lip to strengthen the glue joint against side impact. Edited April 3, 2009 by BobP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dixiet Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Thanks BobP That's what I was doing wrong, I was putting epoxy on the lip as well as the slot, making an awful mess I was worried about the gap along the sides as the epoxy settled into it, but now I see how the clear coat would fill that up Thanks TimD:lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Birdman Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Another good suggestion is to drill small holes through the back of the lip so the epoxy on the top creates a 'core' with the epoxy on the bottom of the slot. If you look at most commercially made baits there is always excess epoxy on the lip, both top and bottom. Whether this actually adds strength is debatable (the epoxy is attached to paint) but the core holes most certainly increases its strength of the lip. For lips with line tie wires through their centers, the need for addtional strength is obviously paramount. Also few companies take the time to backfill the sides of the slot once the lip has been set in place. This is particularly important with lexan where the notch is even wider. Has anyone noticed the difference between 5 minute epoxy and regular 2 ton epoxy? My experiences with 5 minutes have not been all that good. In fact, I only use 5 minute when designing test baits in the event I want to remove the lip later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dixiet Posted April 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Thanks Birdman Haven't been able to find 2ton here in Sudbury Ontario but the 5 min. stuff I found is very strong. If using screw eyes and once set snd cured there is no way I can remove them, with a pair of vice grips I twist and the shank breaks the screw eyes are i 5/16" long Like the lip info by the way:worship: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Birdman, I have recently changed brands, sometimes I use 5 min for tacking weights in etc, and am finding it's very strong, compared to the crap I was using for years, biggest problem is getting it in before it starts to cure.pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
