TEE Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 AHHHHHH! Poured a few batches of swim baits and put some 3-d eyes (L.C.) on them just get an idea for sizing and color for each bait. I did not glue them on, so if I wanted to take them off I could. I just stuck them on like they were with the little adhesive that comes on the back of the eyes. Well, i left them on there for a week and when I went to glue them on permanantly they fell to pieces! There was the flat back piece, the curved lens, and the pupil in a slightly gooey blob. The pieces themselves had not disintegrated, but they came apart from each other. About 12 eyes, all of the ones I had done did the same thing. The baits were not oiled...poured, cured for 2 days, and then I put on the eyes. Thoughts, guidance, and prayers welcome. Thanks guys. T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyyblue21 Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 The poor boy swimbaits do the same thing right out of the pack dont feel to bad about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubeman Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 This will happen to any adhesive eye stuck on plastisol. The adhesive reacts with the plastisol and gels. A fix is to first apply some of LC's color tech clear base, this acts as a barrier. Let it dry and then put the eye on. This will work better, but you really need to coat the eye with the clear paint after its stuck on so it will stay in place longer. Flat eyes which are thin and flexible will stay on better than 3D eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zbass Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 I put my eyes on and then dip the head in clear plastic to seal them in. It works but is another step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 I learned this lesson also. Those eyes aren't really made for soft plastic anyway. I seal the eyes by dipping on all my swimbaits. Whether you're fishing them or selling them you don't want the eyes to come off after a little use. Even with dipping if you pour some baits and let them set a for a few days you may experience the eyes not sticking very well. Before I dip I press on both the eyes to make sure they're still in place. Just part of it. Without dipping I don't see how eyes could ever stay on long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogbaits Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 You are all correct,the eyes should be sealed asap,they do react with the oils in the plastic,they actually absorb it and come apart,I seal all my lures and have not had any problems or complaints,also have had some baits on hand for a long time with sealed eyes and they look as good as the day i sealed them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pastorshane Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 I have noticed the tacky/slimmy stuff the adhesive leaves on the baits when I put them on over night. But I dip mine as well and they seem to hold up quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEE Posted April 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Thanks guys for all of your help. I tried dipping them last nite and that really seals the eyes in. the issue is that I am using bobs 4" swimbait and when i dip just the head it leaves a rim around the head where the layer of plastic stops. if i dip the whole thing it fills in all of the detail of the bait and makes it smooth. Is this just the nature of the beast or is there a solution? thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogbaits Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 When you dip the head try to have the plastic as hot as you dare get it,the hotter it is the thinner it is until it brns,there is a fine line but I get mine very hot,the colder plastic dips thicker and shows the dip more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunnie3035 Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 There are a few options out there on that bait. #1 use rubber cement or superglue gel. It does work better, but as the others stated if your using WTP type eyes they will eventually come off. #2 Use the plastic doll type eyes with the studs. I clip the studs off and glue them to the bait OR you can heat a piece of wire and make a hole for the studs. #3 Put the eyes on the bait and carefully drip clear plastic over just the eye. #4 As someone else stated use the flat eyes then carefully drip clear plastic over them. I personally think we all get too hung up on whether or not our baits or clear coat will hold up. I've thrown a lot of factory swims and the eyes fall off in one trip. I still keep fishing them........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEE Posted April 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Thanks to all of you guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcl58 Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 i am not saying this works for everyone so give this a try. take a hole punch or single paper punch and use heavy duty ten foil. punch out the size needed and use gel super glue and glue eye to the ten foil. fold the remaining edges of ten foil arond the eye, based of the hole punch you should have about 1/32 wall of foil surronding the base of the eye (this will keep oils from migrating beneath the eye). glue eye with foil backing to the lure. i do this for my personal lures and some of the eyes have stayed on for two years of fishing in saltwater, but also some have fallen off the first day. rough up the surface of the lure and clean with acetone helps alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator44 Posted August 16, 2009 Report Share Posted August 16, 2009 Has anyone found a dealer or maker that sells 3D eyes that aren't affected by plastisol? They must exist as they are used on Storm and Tsunami soft plastics. Also the Storm soft plastics have a great system in which one eye has a thin metal post and the opposite eye has a socket so the two eyes are locked together and can't come off, but I have not been able to find anyone that sells them. They would be a great solution if we could find where to buy them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Brabant Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 I have been using super glue. I drill bowling balls part time for a buddy of mine who has a pro shop and he has his own glue line. It's called Grip Lock. They have a regular and a thicker viscosity. Give Barry a call 978-453-9925. www.winnerscircleproshop.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 Does anyone have a temperature they bring the clear coat to when they dip it? Can you bring untinted plastic to higher temperatures than tinted? I know when I pour white baits the plastic seams more sensitive to heat but that might be because white shows even the slightest discoloration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zbass Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 I try to shoot for 360. All I want is a very thin coat and have a bunch ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 Thanks Zbass - I'll give it a try tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
