Another top coat question

[spidergrub6]

Has anyone out there used Component Systems Seal Coat with any success. It seemed to work fine on the main body of the bait but around the lip and hook hangers it spidercracked and water got in and started peeling. I brushed it on, don't know if I should dip instead or if it makes a difference. It is a waterbased product so maybe I should try an epoxy like envirotex or D2t. I would really really appreciate any help that can be offered. Thanks!

[skeeter334]

Im new to painting lures. The few lures i have painted are dipped in dick nites clear coat, so far no issues what so ever. i went with dn's because you get a thinner coat on the lures, i was afraid the epoxy would add to much weight to the small bass lures and affect the action of the bait.

[foulpole18]

I used it on some baits I use for walleye fishing and it seems to hold up. I normally take and spray on a coat of aerosol clear coat and then dip them 2 or 3 times in the CS sealcoat. I have a limited amount of time with them in the water at this point. But I did buy some more to try so hopefully, I will get some fish to chew them up and see how it holds up. The couple I have used have caught some northern pike, walleye, largemouth and smallmouth bass.

[Vodkaman]

originally posted by spidergrub6

around the lip and hook hangers it spidercracked and water got in and started peeling

Those sound like stress cracks. I don't think the method of application affected anything, but increasing the thickness of the top coat might help. How many coats did you apply?

Being water based, how did it hold up to a few hours in water. Did the coat maintain its rigidity, or go soft?

Read this, particularly post 12, but the whole thread was interesting: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/12842-safer-topcoat-please-help-2.html

Dave

Is it the vinyl paint?

Dave

[danderson]

It's not the vinyl paint stuff. The clear vinyl is an excellent topcoat but reacts with soft plastics. I loved the stuff for spinnerbaits just couldn't use shad plastics instead of skirts so I started using D2T. I have also wanted to use the 2 part epoxy clear that CS makes. I have never heard anyone say anything about that. Some people have said that the seal coat can stay kinda cloudy. Not sure though as I haven't used it myself.

[spidergrub6]

Ya the cracks may be stress cracks, but I put on three coats and the rest of the finish held up very well even after being soaked in a bucket for a half hour. Could it be that the finnish is not adhering to the metal hook hangers and is reacting with the plastic lip? The cracks formed even before the bait was in the water and started to peel after being submerged awhile. Thanks a bunch for the replys:wink:

[mark poulson]

It's not the vinyl paint stuff. The clear vinyl is an excellent topcoat but reacts with soft plastics. I loved the stuff for spinnerbaits just couldn't use shad plastics instead of skirts so I started using D2T. I have also wanted to use the 2 part epoxy clear that CS makes. I have never heard anyone say anything about that. Some people have said that the seal coat can stay kinda cloudy. Not sure though as I haven't used it myself.

I used vinyl clear on some jig heads, because l like the way it blends the sharpie colors that I used to color them. Afterward, I remembered about the soft plastic thing, so I went on the plastics forum here and asked for help. Someone suggested epoxy over it, so I tried that. I also sprayed one with cheap clear acrylic.

Both method worked, but the spray acrylic is by far the easiest.

I bet that would work for you spinnerbaits.