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Mac10

Spitting Lizards

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Please ignore this first message....there is a better spittin lizard later on in this thread.....

1. Cut a band from a tube lure 3/8 to a 1/2 inch wide. Take this section and place it over the snout of a 6 inch lizard and weld the back edge to the head with a pencil soldering iron. When the lizard is texas rigged or texposed with a hook, the hook eye will end up in the middle of the "cup face".

2. The clear plastic bubble material on many products can be "cut" by using a pencil soldering iron. If the point of your iron is too wide to do this well, wrap the tip with a piece of wire about the size of a pencil lead or less, wrapping it three times about the tip and then letting it stick out off the end about a half inch.....going slowly, you can use this wire to cut as well. Cut out several discs after tracing a dime several times. Now, run the point of the iron through the disc (withouth the wrapped wire) and wiggle just a little to make a hole in the disc. Pull the lizard's snout through the hole....if done correctly the snout will puff out on each side nicely....when you put the hook in, it will travel through the nose and expand the snout to fit even tighter on the disk. This clear plastic "collar" will spit water on the retrieve. Keeping the rod tip up will keep the lizard pretty well on top.

3. For an added effect, weld on an Ultra Vibe Speed Worm Tail made by zoom. Cut the tail off the worm body a half inch up from the flat hook type tail and then using the iron, weld it to the stub where you removed the lizard tail. On a pull or a mini sweep, the tail will activate and throw water from the back end as well....I like to mount with the hook facing down on the back end.

When you cut the tail off the speed worm body, you have made a Senko type bait....you can rig weightless with a 2/0 Gammie worm hook and fish slow fall and deadsticking....can also be wacky rigged. I strongly suggest the watermelon/red (red glitter) color as it works the best of all the speed worm colors.

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If you read carefully and follow the written instructions, you will understand the process very clearly. I don't know how to post pictures, nor do I have pictures to post. I understand what you are saying and why, but really, it's all here. If there is any confusion in my writing, please post your question and I'll be glad to clear things up. It's totally possible that I missed something along the way. Thank you and Good Fishing, Mac

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I make many modifications to soft plastics and just to be honest I sometimes get enthused and figure things out ahead of time without the one step of field testing. I apologize for my blind enthusiasm. The clear discs were a flop and in the meantime I've discovered better things to get a good spitting lizard. I don't do pictures, and drawings, but I think with your forgiveness and patience we can work this out. If you have questions, please post them here and I'll be back from time to time.

Sorry for the confusion and hope to remedy our situation, thank you , Mac

Posts will follow.....

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Red G8tr....great illustrations, thanks....I regretfully found the clear disc doesn't work for me as the lizard body and legs, tail, etc have too much drag. The band on the head mis-shapes the sillouette too much and I sincerely blew it.

In the meantime I found two things that work very well....they are as follows....

1. Cut a mouth in the lizard face that goes in halfway up the thickness of the head and goes back slightly past the eyes..... Hold the mouth open and weld in a sliver of soft plastic with a hot wire....this keeps the mouth open. I wrap a copper wire three times around a pencil soldering iron tip and let the end protrude about 3/4 inch...i use this hot wire (about the diameter of a pencil lead.) for fine welding.....

2. I cut a wedge of soft plastic and weld it to the chest of the lizard between the arms.....across the chest from arm to arm.....this wedge welded on with the thin edge foreward and the fat edge to the rear creates a ski....when you pull or twitch the lizard the mouth spits and the body skis up on top of the water and makes a commotion as well.

3. The hooktail is optional, and because the mouth and wedge work well, you may wish to leave it out alltogether.

4. If you make a wedge about a quarter inch from front thin edge to back fat edge, the elevation of the back edge could be 1/8 inch....doesn't have to be any taller than that to do a good job

Just want to apologize again for not field testing and do want to let you know this one works much better. My enthusiasm will be kept in check.

Good fishing, Mac

p.s. When I weld the hooktail from the speed worm on, I weld directly to the flat hooktail....I don't leave any speed worm body on the tailpiece.

I measure from the front end of the speed worm a length of 3.75 inches and cut there....I rig the watermelon/red body weightless, texposed on a 2/0 hook and fish it like a Senko......but the speed worm falls slowly and works I think even better. Of the zoom colors, watemelon/red glitter is by far the best.....casts well, skips well and can be wacky rigged as well.

In the weeds I use lizards both on top and underneath fished like a senko as well. The little pieces of body left over I save and cut for holding mouths open.

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believe ot or not mac10 but a company makes a similar concave disc that you can string on your line before the hook, i think its called a "wigglefin" Chirmy gave me a few of em years ago but I never got a chance to try em. his dropshot worms worked fine without any needed "wiggle" :D

maybe you should try & make you a mold of a lizard with a concave mouth molded in. might be fun.

Although I like modifying soft plastics myself, its an easy & quick fix compared to other bait styles.

take care

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