george12182 Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 After reading in another post where someone put a toothpick down the tip of the bait so it leaves a mark where to drill the pour hole in a two piece mold, I came up with a simple solution so you don't have to do any drilling. Insert the toothpick in the top of the bait in the center. Then cut a small piece of the tail of a senko off. Stick this on the toothpick and lay it touching the mold. When you remove the bait, you have a perfect pour hole. Tried this on my first 2 piece mold and it worked perfect. Just thought I'd share. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 someone else mentioned a while ago to just use a golf tee. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I just use a rolled up piece/s of sculpy clay in the shape of a pointed gumdrop(lol) and place it in front of the master making sure it extends out and touches the mold frame. After it sets up theres just a little clean up and you're good to go. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headshot Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I just use a rolled up piece/s of sculpy clay in the shape of a pointed gumdrop(lol) and place it in front of the master making sure it extends out and touches the mold frame.After it sets up theres just a little clean up and you're good to go. Yep, I use the sculpy technique also. That way you can customize the fit on the fly. In fact, I use quite a bit of sculpy in my baitmaking. Great stuff....well, until it gets too soft from overhandling. Good tip, Nova. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robalo01 Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 Ah the feel of fresh clay in my hands! it's like a breath of fresh air after along plane ride, a cool glass of water after a long walk in the sun, like a slice pecan pie on a lazy summer afternoon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headshot Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 That's really more a "whittlin' on a stick" kind of image you're conjuring up there robalo. LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 If you have other 2 piece molds (like a senko), use the plastic from the sprue hole. Just put it halfway like you do the bait.... Makes a perfect sprue every time. I always threw mine back so fast I never had any available when I was mold making though!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 If you have other 2 piece molds (like a senko), use the plastic from the sprue hole. Just put it halfway like you do the bait.... Makes a perfect sprue every time.I always threw mine back so fast I never had any available when I was mold making though!!! Jim thats how I've always done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 Also meant to add that if you add some extra (glue a portion of a thin worm) onto the sprue and make the hole longer, you will never have to re-fill.... I like that!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I built a a resevour in mine so I do not have to refill. Save a hassle of repouring when I could be making more baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headshot Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I built a a resevour in mine so I do not have to refill. Save a hassle of repouring when I could be making more baits. Hmmm. I'm not sure what that means. I'd sure like to see a pic, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/8509-new-molding-technique-maybe.html#post54713 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 Hmmm. I'm not sure what that means. I'd sure like to see a pic, though. I cant find my picture. Simple terms though. All I did is make a bigger area above the actual lure to hold more plastic. So when the bait cools and shrinks it pulls more plastic from the top and I dont have to re-add plastic, like on alum molds. Stick molds are bad about that. I figured this out when I made a POP frog mold. I took a knife to cut the pour hole in it and took alot of material off the top for some reason. After I poured it I said sweet! accidental invention. Simple but effective. SO every POP mold I use a old cut top of on of my frogs and tack it onto the lure for the pour spout mold too. I have a complete functioning mold all I have to do is glue it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/8509-new-molding-technique-maybe.html#post54713 Exactly how I do it. Not quite as neat but similiar. Mine is cone shaped but same idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJS Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Hmmm. I'm not sure what that means. I'd sure like to see a pic, though. headshot - You can see the "reservoirs" at each pour hole on these 8" striper lures. Big, meaty lures like these really shink up a lot as they cool so I have to top off the each reservoir a second time. If I don't then a slender hole will form when the shrinking lure starts sucking air into the tip of the lure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headshot Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) Ah. Got it. I thought you meant a seperate, secondary reservoir to hold hot plastic and drip it into the main pourhole/reservoir. Nice looking mold, BTW. Is that POP? Edited April 21, 2009 by headshot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJS Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 headshot - The mold is made from Durhams Water Putty. I submitted a lengthy post about the making of this mold several months ago. Here's the link to it if you are interested. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/13961-2-piece-dwp-sculpy-mandril-pic.html I've made several more 2-piece molds since then and my techique is still pretty much the same. Now I'm branching out into making lead jig molds out of DWP using the same technique. First one turned out pretty good. It has made 20 jigheads so far, 1.1 oz each, with no ill-effects to the mold. I only pour for my own use so 40-50 jigheads, if thats all the mold last for, will last me a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headshot Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Thanks for that link. Just out of curiousity, why DWP instead of POP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJS Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Thanks for that link.Just out of curiousity, why DWP instead of POP? headshot - DWP has a significantly slow set time, especially if I add ~5% vinegar to the water. I need theextra time. Plus, I think DWP might get harder than PoP, not sure. Also, as of recent, I've been adding a fair bit of Elmers glue to the water before mixing in the DWP powder. Learned that here on TU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodgervich Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 I ran into the same problem when pouring my giant grubs, the funnel I put into the mold was not enough reservoir and the lure was sucking in huge amounts of air. I didn't have enough room to make the reservoir much bigger so when I pour I put a short piece of 1-1/2" pipe on the top of the funnel as a reservoir and it works real well. I also found that if I wait about 30 minutes after pouring and watch the shriking in the reservoir I can open the mold when it has sucked plastic down about half way and the lure will stop sucking in plastic as it cools. The lure will have skinned over pretty well and the inside will be hot and liquid but it will cool evenly and not draw air in through the nose. Leave the bait in half the mold and tip it up a bit so the liquid plastic doesn't run out the nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 I save my tops from my stick bait mold, when I make a new mold I simply take a toothpick and put it through both the new bait and the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
