Jump to content
bdhaeh

Chrome plastics

Recommended Posts

Yeah heat heat that solvent up to 350 degrees. Just make sure your nowhere close to my neighborhood when you do it please.:eek: Solvent fumes are bad enough. But heat the solvent up, one spark and by by or you will be burned severly. Trust me on this one. I have burn scars on 25% of my body from doing a similar thing. You will regret it sooner or later.

Now how about using just the pigment without the solvent? Take testers model paint and let it sit. the solvent will separate from the pigment. drain off the solvent and your left with just pigment. If it works with testers model paint maybe it works with others.

Edited by MTfishingrods
Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW, I read the article and I think his method is somehow rolling in foil, then clearcoating, but I could be wrong.

He mentions that foiling is essentially part of the process, although how he'd do it, I'm not certain. Seems to me the flex of the bait would break the foil. Or the foil would hinder the action of the bait, one way or the other.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you could get that pigment mixed in a Colortech clear base, I'm sure it could be air brushed on to finished plastisol. Since that paint is flexible and meant for soft plastic, it should work. Only thing that scares me is the price of the chrome paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm interested in this also. I'm tempted to try some chrome spraypaint in the mix, but I'm afraid of what the solvent would do to the plastic, and my health.

// Don't do this. It would be extremely dangerous to try, I believe. Input?

Don't mix that stuff in your plastic. Painting soft baits is like painting your door panels and dash in your car. The paint needs a flex agent in it the paint. Other wise it will crack and flake when its moved after it dries.

Edited by Pitbull Baits
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is what he said about the process.

"Have had numerous people wanting to know how to chrome soft plastics, so here is my way. Am sure others can come up with other techniques. I use a black bait straight from the mold with no oils added. You want a dry bait. Dark colored baits work best, but you can use any bait and improve your catch ratio. You can mix aluminum powder in color tech clear and spray your bait and coming back over it with white pearl in the color tech clear. This gives the bait a metallic silver-chrome look which is very durable.If you don't want to invest in an airbrush, you can mix your aluminum-clear and your white pearl in seperate containers and just mop a coat of each on the bait with a q-tip,etc. You can bypass the aluminum and put a coat or two of the white pearl on the bait, which I really like. A real plus to this method is you can use other pearls to achieve other metallic colors such as gold,etc.You can custom paint a bait with several colors as there is no end to the metallic color schemes you can produce. You can take a clear bait with weedless hook slot and coat the inner portion to get a highly reflective-magnified flash,also. Hope you like it. Do this outside or with proper safety procedures, as the fumes are potent. Keep it off your hands. I also have just hand rubbed the baits with the white pearl and dip the whole bait in color tech clear and hang to dry..."

The poster is Bob King, the inventor of the wedgetail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...
Top