balsa butcher Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 I have read in several places about "heat setting" and that it should be used between different coats and colors of paints and before clear coating. I have tried this with mixed results. I have done this and bubbled the paint and sealer (balsa baits) from using to much heat and I have also noticed that when I use some transparent paints it will stay tacky for several days. I use Ceatex and sometimes Golden paints. Should the tackyness be totally gone before I clear coat? I use an epoxy clear, but I am going to try Dick Nites. Do you heat set with a heat gun or a hair dryer at high heat? For how long? Do you heat set for when I mess up and need to remove something or so the paint doesn't try to cure through the clear coat? Thanks in advance for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spare tire Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 I use createx paint and I heat set with a heat gun on low setting and keep it moving. I have also bubbled the paint , to much of a good thing I guess. It only takes about 10 seconds on a small bait for me, and I dont do it after every color, just before scaliong or during scaling, before gloss coat and after gloss coat. KEEP THE GUN MOVING AND NOT TO CLOSE Hope this helps Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 I don't use a heat gun, I use a hair dryer and I don't go crazy. Start on low until the water sheen on the paint disappears, then on high for about 5 secs just for the heck of it. Don't start pushing paint around on the surface or boiling it! If your waterproof undercoat is inadequate, you will sometimes get a bubble in the paint. It isn't the paint boiling, it's air inside the bait expanding and escaping through a bad spot in the undercoat. I heat dry after every color shot. Just let it become a good habit. Yep, some airbrush paints from Createx or other brands feel tacky even after drying. I assume it's excess glycol flow enhancer or whatever (hey I ain't no paint chemist). If I'm topcoating with epoxy, I just ignore it and it has never caused a problem. If you're concerned, it will usually go away after a day or two of air drying. Why heat dry? First, so I can handle the bait without smearing paint or having wet paint pushed around by the next layer of color I shoot. Also, heat drying "cures" paint into a more durable film with better adhesion, and it does it immediately. I don't usually topcoat baits immediately after painting (I'm tired of messing with them by then) but have done so with no problems on numerous occasions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snax Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Be sure not to overdo it with heat curing or it will turn the paint into an easy to peel off skin. With the newer paints from Createx (Wicked Colors and Auto-Borne) you do not need heat, only air flow to dry it faster. A small amount of heat such as a blow drier will speed up drying times of course. Using the 4011 Auto Air Flash Reducer also helps speed up the drying times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
balsa butcher Posted April 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Awesome! Thanks for the tips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 I think a heat gun is too strong for lure painting, unless you're really experienced with it. Otherwise, it's like killing flies with an elephant gun. After all, heat guns are used to remove paint, by bubbling them off the surface. A hair dryer is much more user friendly. In my case, read that idiot proof! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snax Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 I'll tell ya, this website is an absolute God-send for anyone who is just getting started with lure making! So much first hand experience from the best lure makers in the world right at your finger tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfingers Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 I've always loved killing flies with my elephant guns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL Rods Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) Well ditto what they all have said, but I use a little of both. However I will say the heat gun is not like one for pealing off paint or flooring... It is a heat gun used with my wifes', stencilling / stamping and basically was designed to melt the embossing powders and doesn't get quite as hot but it will flat bubble paint and epoxy if held still. But in fact I did bubble one today using the heat gun on a balsa bait and boy was I $%%^^& (unhappy) with my self. One bit of caution in heat setting with a hair dryer or gun. Occasionally take a vacuum and remove all of the lint from the mesh filters and then really blow it out with your compressor to avoid force feeding dust/lint on to your bait! Edited April 28, 2009 by 76gator added another comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 29, 2009 Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 76gator, Don't you just love it when you work your butt off to get a really good paint job, and then do something dumb to ruin it! My favorite is dropping it onto the dirty carpet runners in my garage while the paint's still wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
