cabled Posted January 26, 2004 Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 A question for bass jig making - what is the best method to secure fiber weed guards after powder painting? I insert the "weedguard pin" in the hole when I dip the head in paint, so no paint is going in the weedguard opening - but still find it very difficult to insert the fiber guard in the jig without messing several up. They're the correct size, I just figured the fiber guards would go in easier than they do. Please enlighten me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted January 26, 2004 Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 Zap a gap or Devcon will work, JIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabled Posted January 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 Jim, Thanks for the information, I'm not familiar with zap a gap or devcon, what kind of products are they, where can I purchase them, and how are they used in the jig making process. I'll try some web research on those names in the meantime. Thanks. cabled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted January 26, 2004 Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 They are glues, try using a few less strands in the weedgaurd and they should go in easier and use the zap a gap to secure it in place, JIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8flyz Posted January 26, 2004 Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 I use a drill bit, mounted in a "T" handle (like used with a tap & die set) and just give it a few turns down the hole. Then epoxy the weed guards in place using Devcon 2-ton. I've tried the Super Glues, like Zap a Gap, & even Pro's Sofbait Glue and they tend to cavitate up the weed guard too much. I guess the gel types might work OK, but I've never tried them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabled Posted January 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 Jim and Jim, Thanks very much for the information. I will try your techniques out and hopefully find success. cabled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markell Posted January 27, 2004 Report Share Posted January 27, 2004 I just mentioned this tip for "Bullet Weight". Forgive me for redundant information. I had the same problem. I now use a 9/64 drill bit for the FG30 weed guards. You may need to experiment if you are using other size weed guards. This ensures a deep hole and also increases the diameter of the hole to allow the powder paint to melt in and still have a nice tight fit with the weed guards. I put the jig upside down between two pieces of wood in a vise to hold the jig in place while drilling. Do this before you powder paint. Once you get the hang of it, you can drill dozens of jigs in a matter of minutes. I bought a few bottles of Zap-a-Gap and I am having the same problem Gr8flyz mentioned. Once I am out of the Zap-A -Gap I am going to try the Devcon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8flyz Posted January 27, 2004 Report Share Posted January 27, 2004 The Devcon will also cavitate some, especially when it's first mixed & still rather thin, but after it hardens is easy to remove from between the fibers. Devcon won't stick to the weed guard material. Some of the super glues will not only cavitate, but will also stick & turn the weed guards into a solid useless mass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted January 27, 2004 Report Share Posted January 27, 2004 Would silicone work? You could put it in a large capacity hypodermic syringe and inject it into the bottom of the base pin hole. What about BONDO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markell Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 WidowMaker, I don't think the silicone would hold well enough. I wanted the Zap-a-gap to work because there is no mixing but My finished guards do not have consistant resistance with that stuff. I am going to give the devcon a try. I will say this, the Devcon is much cheaper than the Zap-a-Gap. I am curious about the thicker Zap-a-Gap but I like the price of the Devcon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 Hi Jim. How did you mount the drill bit on the handle, and what did you use for a handle? Thanks, Pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwoBits Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 I tried the 9/64 th bit , using FG30's I bought from Barlows. That's too big a bit for those guards. A 1/8th bit did a better job of cleaning out the fiber hole. I just used my electric drill on low speed and put the jighead in a vise. I used Devcon. However, I haven't fished with these jigs long enough to say absolutely that the FG are in place for good. I've also found that it doesn't take a lot of Devcon to hold the FG securely if the hole is drilled deep enough and its a tight fit. I went ahead and coated the entire jig head with Devcon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 I think that is fine for individual use, but; I think it would be too slow for production jig making. What Jim is doing I think will be faster. Pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markell Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 TwoBits, I use the larger bit to allow a little powder paint to enter the hole. I get a nice tight fit. I have never lost a weed guard that was put in with Devcon. Pop is right about the slowdown. I never do more than 50 at a time so this works for me. The problem I have with the zap a gap is it tends to turn white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted May 2, 2004 Report Share Posted May 2, 2004 Sounds like your using too much Zap-a-gap, I like it because it doesn't take much. Try putting very little on the sides of the hole and some in the bottom of the hole, not much but enough to have the glue on every fiber and then sinking the fiber gaurd down on top very firm and steady, you should have the sides of the fibers around the side and the tips of all the fibers push the glue down to the bottom, then it will fill in the gaps between the fibers and lock it down bloody well proper...you shouldn't have any glue forced out of the hole or up the fibers or even see what color the glue dried too, remember "a little goes a long way". Like everything else it just takes a little practice to perfect, JIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
