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alphawolf

Blades not spinning frustration

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If you go to do-it molds web sight click on any of the spinnerbait molds you'll find a link to a page that tells you how to make gargoyle spinners wich will get both spinners to spin on the ball bearing swivels I guess they are a bit more weedless than other types but i do believe if you bend the wire back it will also work.I believe it might also rotate if you switch to a rounder blade but that might change the way your hook sits when retrieved you have to think of it as a lever with your line tie as the fulcrum if your blade pull to much you might have to bend your hook up a bit a compensate

Hey George,

You mind posting a link (or PM me) on the info for gargoyle spinners. Can't seem to find it??

Thanks,

Eric

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I've always thought that the second blade on the arm of the spinner bait is there to spin "on the drop" which seems to be when I get half my fish. It just doesn't seem like a physical possibility that it could spin when the lure is pulled horizontally. It's gonna hit the upper shaft arm. I don't use one on most of my spinnerbaits, and seems to work just about as well.

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Sorry about that I need to figure out how to put links up here. But the gargoyles do work good. If you mess around using a indiana or colarado on the top and a willow on the bottom you can get them to click a little bit. without stopping them from spinning

Don't sweat it....I'm on a computer all day and still find ways to jack things up not even trying! I typically cut and paste the "http://" for the link...usually works most of the time. Good tip about the blades...reminds me of perhaps a buzz bait w/ a clacker.

Elken, thanks for the link...the visual is what i was mostly after...still think it's a cool idea, but some room for improvement (on bending the wire). looks too time consuming, I think JSC has it going on...typical SB frame, just add beads and sleeves...very nice!

Sorry to jump off track w/ the thread....but to understand SB's, just tub test them. You can see everything spin, rotate. After tub testing mine, (blades worked fine) I realized my hook was running way too deep (was attempting SB's w/ trebles).

Thanks,

Eric

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For treble hooks I would use split rings with the shrink tube over it like what alot of guys use on inline bucktails holds the hook straight out no matter wat your retreive speed just make sur to take a split ring when you buy the tubing you want the splitring to just slide through without hanging up

Oh yeah they make shrink tube for boat trailers that is supposed to be waterproof once shrunk.

Hope this helps

George

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"I think JSC has it going on...typical SB frame, just add beads and sleeves...very nice! "

Thanx

It took a little tweaking ... I am really a "Single Spin" person ... make a few with a small Colorado or Indiana up front with a larger Indiana or Coloradao as the main blade .. but just had to give this a "Shot" .. maybe I will give it a try on the next trip ..

JSC

:)

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Hey Alphawolf:

The very first thing I noticed is that you are using hollow metal beads. I never, never, never use hollow metal beads as a bearing surface for the clevis. I use solid metal beads and I inspect every one I use to make sure there are no metal burs on either side of the hole openings which greatly interferes with the turning of the blade/clevis on the shaft. Hollow metal beads almost always have some kind of bur at the hole. Although everything else that was posted as a possible problem can indeed be a cause, look to investing a little more in solid metal beads. Good Luck-----Bladebait

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Hey Alphawolf:

The very first thing I noticed is that you are using hollow metal beads. I never, never, never use hollow metal beads as a bearing surface for the clevis. I use solid metal beads and I inspect every one I use to make sure there are no metal burs on either side of the hole openings which greatly interferes with the turning of the blade/clevis on the shaft. Hollow metal beads almost always have some kind of bur at the hole. Although everything else that was posted as a possible problem can indeed be a cause, look to investing a little more in solid metal beads. Good Luck-----Bladebait

Bladebait,

Nice pick up on the hollow metal beads!....never used them myself. But, if I ever use them, I'll look out for the burs.

That would most certainly screw up any spinner bait, no matter the angle of the frame wire or the size/style, placement of the blade.

Eric

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Alphawolf: Noticed that Eric picked up on what I said, but I believe you will have to learn the hard way. Bladebait:yay:

Where can I score some solid metal nickel beads in bulk? What size in MM compares to the 5/32 Barlows sells? The wire for my spinnerbaits is .35

Thanks Gentlemen!:yay:

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Hey Alphawolf:

It looks like the wire size of .35" may be a typo. I believe this should possibly be .035"

Barlows has a 5/32" dia. solid brass bead Nickel finished stock # 401323-(03) listed on the same page (page 53) of their catalog as the hollow brass beads and can be purchased in lots of 25 (for $2.35) and lots of 100 (for $7.10). The catalog lists the hole diameter as .052" which would work well with the .035" wire diameter.

Doing the math for 5/32" or .15625" would result in a dimension of 3.969 MM but I suspect that most companies would list it as 4MM

Hope this helps---Bladebait

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Hey Alphawolf:

It looks like the wire size of .35" may be a typo. I believe this should possibly be .035"

Barlows has a 5/32" dia. solid brass bead Nickel finished stock # 401323-(03) listed on the same page (page 53) of their catalog as the hollow brass beads and can be purchased in lots of 25 (for $2.35) and lots of 100 (for $7.10). The catalog lists the hole diameter as .052" which would work well with the .035" wire diameter.

Doing the math for 5/32" or .15625" would result in a dimension of 3.969 MM but I suspect that most companies would list it as 4MM

Hope this helps---Bladebait

yes, you are correct about the wire! And thanks for the 4mm conversion. Math was my worst subject in school.:yay:

And Barlows is too expensive for those LOL! Im going to get a thousand from Hagens. Unless anyone knows better!

Edited by alphawolf
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Kelly,

Sorry about the long reply time sometimes life gets in the way of fun. Here are the pics I promised. The fist one is of one of my standard spinnerbaits. The angle of the blade arm is pretty low and puts the blades closer to the hook. This allows the front blade to rotate around the shaft. This one has a 4.0 blade in front and a 4.5 on the swivel. there are only (5) 5/32 beads between them. The second one is a design that was introduced many years ago, but didn't really catch on. The idea was that the longer blade arm allows max vibration and the curve in the arm places the blades above and closer to the hook.

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Thank you basseducer, I have been looking forward to that. I was hoping you did but did not want to push. My life gets in the way at times also. It is a lot steeper of angle that what I have been making. After this thread I have decided there is new found outlook on making spinner baits for me. Making them just to wobble not grasping the idea that they can spine on that angle. But that steep of wire and the water resistance would push the blade back just far enough to spin. I like the way you have them spaced also. The second one helps the brain turn even more.

Again, thank you for posting the picks.

kelly

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This has been a good thread ..

I have all ways adjusted the "Arm" so that the blade on it would spin .. Thought it was suppose to but .. I see that some of you have been just letting it wobble ..

Even ones I have bought thru the years I have all ways adjusted it so that both blades were spinning.

Good Stuff

Thanx

JSC

:yay:

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