Painting Metal Spoons

[Silver Streak]

I'm sure that most of you guys already know the answer to my question, but I'm a little stumped. I'm trying to paint some metal spoons, dodgers, and spinner blades. I'm having a problem with the paint sticking. I've used a metal primer, airbrushed some Createx paint and sealed with a light epoxy coat( 2 ton). This was only done to one side of the spoon. After being lightly used, the complete coats of primer, paint, and epoxy have pulled away. I lightly sanded the bare metal spoon before primer thinking that this would give the base primer a better "bite"....the primer failed to stick. My question to you guys is what should I be doing to make the paint stick? Different primer? What would you recommend ? I want to be able to airbrush these lures.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[BobP]

When I tried D2T (which I still use and like on many crankbaits), I coated the whole spoon with unthinned epoxy so there would be an unbroken coating. I didn't use metal primer because the acrylic paint didn't seem to adhere to it any better than to lightly sanded metal. It worked decently but I was painting mostly pearl white acrylic paint and didn't like the slightly yellowish tinge D2T gave it. The epoxy was also hard to get cured without having thickened areas at the holes for the split rings. All said and done, I wasn't happy. I switched to Dick Nite urethane. DN is, after all, formulated specifically for manufacturing spoons. Now I just shoot acrylic paint directly on the metal, dip the spoon in DN, and hang it to dry. Works great. The DN soaks into the paint. It's thin enough so all the excess neatly drips off the end of the spoon and there is no build-up around the split ring holes. Thin enough for spinnerbait blades. The DN is not yellowish and is tough after it moisture cures for about a week. Just another option:lol:

[diemai]

I've making spoons and blades since more than 15 years , used to paint a few of these as well .

I'd make them of stainless steel , copper and brass sheet , most likely leaving the inner side plain polished and only painting/decorating the outer side .

The surfaces to be painted I had sandblasted at my work before , and prior to priming I'd clean them with industrial alcohol . I used an ordinary primer paint from the tool store , suitable for metal and wood alike , doesn't matter , whether acrylic or solvent based .

The colors I did with "Revell" model making enamels(by brushing) , after topcoat with acrylic clear(to protect the color design against the final topcoat)and finally with 2K clear , guess its also called PUR laquer .

Those commercial blades are made of brass plated with a very thin layer of nickel or similar , ...I have also painted such the above described way , but also sandblasted that plating away down to the bare metal before .

Never had any issues in terms of the paint coming off that much apart from normal wear on rocks or mussels .

greetz , diemai:yay:

[DUCBOS]

Did a bunch this past winter.

All Createx paint. Some one sided Some all over Some multi colored ans shaded.

This is the only thing I use Dick Nites for, and you have to cover the whole bait.

I think it may bond through the paint, but it works well.

DN is a pain, but I finally got some Bloxygen and that helps a lot to stop the waste.

[spare tire]

I agree the Devcon doesnt like the sharp edges, so it will pull off the spoon, DN is more forgiving on that.

Tim

[silver shad]

Dick Nite used it on spinners it came out great.

[68KingFisher]

but I finally got some Bloxygen and that helps a lot to stop the waste.

I've read this deal about Bloxygen a few times on this site, so I had to look it up to find out what it was. Once I saw what it was, I thought i'd share a couple of old painters tips with you guys that you may be unaware of.

Sign painters enamals are really bad about skinning over on top, once the can has been opened and the paint gets exposed to oxygen, so old tyme sign painters learned to take a straw and blowing slowly thru it, they would insert the other end of the straw into the top of the paintcan as they put the lid on.....their blowing into the can filled it with carbondioxide...the stuff we mainly exhale....the paint doesn't dry because the oxygen that would've been trapped in the can once the lid was put on, is now replaced with Co2.....thats basicly the same thing that you guys are doing with the Bloxygen.

One other tip.....those little cans of air in the computer section of Walmart that are sold to spray the dust off your keyboards and stuff.....those cans are filled with Co2...and i'm bettin thats what your can of Bloxygen is.