ROWINGADUBAY Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I am aware of the dangers of failed injectors but for me this seems like the way to go I have a couple questions Who makes a good one? Will I be able to use it with different mold makers molds? Am I loosing anything softness movement ect. from handpouring? How do you clean them. I believe I seen one on BEARS BAIT sight that was made out of aluminum and they offered different tips why is this? I believe I will order some molds from lurecraft and make some of my own from POP and RTV so any help would be very helpful Thanks in advance George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zbass Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Hey sniffer, Don't know if you read these 2 posts but many of your questions are answered in there. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/17201-injectors-molds.html http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/17207-2-color-injection.html I am only familar with the one from bearsbaits. I have not heard good things about some of the other ones. Bears IMO is the best one out there for the hand pour guys. You will not loose any softnes or texture when using this. It is the same plastic that you hand pour with. To clean it, there is a screw at the plunger end. Remove it and that will give you open access to the tube portion. I just twist up a couple of papertowels and pull them through it a couple of times and it is good to go. You do not have to do this but about every 5 or 6 fills. One other tip that Bear told me was to put a little worm oil on the O-ring at the beginning and that will allow a smoother draw and push. This is not for use with one sided molds. You would be much better off with a pot or pyrex for those molds. This is for the hard to pour 2 pc molds, and for that matter, most 2 pc molds. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear21211 Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 (edited) The injectors were designed for our molds. There is several people using them on others molds with success. I do want to caution you guys of a few things. 1st off DO NOT APPLY a lot of force. It is not needed and can cause you to get hot plastic on you. 2nd Do not use the injectors on molds that are not secured with a rigid locking device. 3rd do not use our injectors with the net craft molds. The injector will push the mold apart. Use common sense and they work very well. Any questions please contact me and I will answer your questions. Bear Edited June 1, 2009 by bear21211 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirkfan Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I've used netcraft injectors A LOT, and never had a serious accident. I've looked at the Bear's injectors, and am not quit sure how you''d use them with the netcraft molds safely. I do like the fact that netcraft molds are inexpensive, and they've got a bunch of patterns. The injectors are inexpensive too, but are prone to rather rapid breakdown. Buy a couple. How you use the injectors is key, don't pick up the injector and try to use it like a syringe. It's designed to sit on the work surface and any pressure used to push plastic into the mold is done by pressing down with the mold, not pushing up with the injector. Spray the molds with Pam cooking spray before you start. Remove the plunger, and spray the barrel of the injector with Pam too. You only need to do this once per pouring session. Then fill the barrel of the injector with liquid plastic and replace the plunger. Turn it tip up, set it on the work surface and gently press down on the barrel with a gloved hand. If the plastic won't flow, don't force it, you've got a plug in the metal tip (this happens virtually every time). A little pressure will hold the plug just proud of the tip, pull it out with a gloved hand or forceps. This allows molten plastic to flow. Then press the mold down on the tip. If it still won't flow, there is now a plug in the mold, have several ready and use another one. Oh, and by the way, throw away those funky c-clips and get some small plastic woodworking clamps (you can get a bag of a whole bunch of them at Lowes for about 10 bucks). They hold the mold together plenty tight to make a flash free injection if the mold isn't warped. A few of the Netcraft molds (such as the jerkbait) just won't inject from the bottom, turn them upside down and inject through the sprue hole. After the mold has filled, turn it upright, and then, and only then use the injector like a syringe to keep the sprue hole filled as the plastic cools and shrinks. Otherwise you'll get a void in the bait as the plastic shrinks (unless you want a hollow bait, which you will get). A plug of solid plastic will invariably form in the barrel of the injector with each use. Pull the plunger out and remove this with forceps and remelt it. These things are designed for personal use, you're never going to be able to get a production thing going, the injectors don't hold enough, and the whole process is just way too slow. But they do make nice baits, which have produced a lot of fish for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROWINGADUBAY Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Thanks alot guys that helped!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
