Bros Plastics Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 I made this from oak and put a shalack on it. Its 5" and intended for drop shotting. Also wondering if the fiberglass resin will burn the shalack off and come out dull looking. All comments are appreciated. Thanks! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 That's a good question; I don't know, never used shellac to seal wood masters. I would think that the heat generated by the resin will make the shellac sticky. You could wind up with a mess. I use spray paint like Tremclad to seal the masters. One coat; dry; fine steel wool; then coat again. Works fine. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDBaits Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 I mentioned this one to my brother who deals with fiberglass resin regularly at work. He said it should be fine but was more concerned about what you would use as a release agent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96dak Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 have fun getting that bait out of the cured resin, you would be better off making an rtv mold of that bait, and using a soft bait to make the resin mold with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 96dak is right I like fiberglass resin molds and in my early days learning I used air dried clay and man that was a bear to get out had to use a dremmel and dental tools, stick with RTV for solid positives you can always make a resin mold from the first few you pour from the RTV plus its nice to be able to make an under cut in your molds you could not do that with resin and solid positives. Good luck and let us know what you decide. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bros Plastics Posted June 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 Thanks for the replies guys. Last time i used a plastic worm with the resin and it looked as if it caught on fire. the heat was intense. I was going to use resin because its cheaper than RTV but i might have to go with RTV. Is there other places to get the RTV other than LC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 (edited) Sure but its all the same I don't think you'll find it cheaper to make a difference, the key is the shipping cost! And when I make resin molds sure the plastic will kinda melt, but the mold will already be set with the features. Edited June 18, 2009 by mrbilky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 Sorry to tell you this but from looking at the pics I don't think you'll get your master out of the resin mold after it sets. There are compound curves in the master that will lock it in the resin. You may have to invest in RTV silicone to make a mold, or you could make a two part POP mold. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Prager Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 They have tutorials here as well. I believe the most popular is the Oomoo 25 Smooth-On - Mold Making and Casting Materials for a World of Applications! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COBRA Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 ok a few ways to go, box the bait, pour regular plastic over it, thats right worm plastic, let it cool and pull off the mold you just made. pour candle wax into it. let it cool, dont be afraid to over fill it. now box the "wax" worm and just pour plaster of paris in a soupy state over it. done. good to go mold, now you can chip or pull the wax out or just heat the mold and the wax will go away back into the plaster and you can coat the mold. now with the resin, you need to use a spray or brush on mold release. only way you will get a thermal melt down is to much hardener. if you back off on the hardener a bit it will take longer to set. if you have a beer fridge you can throw the mold in there to slow the thermal curing process. with resin molds its best to make the base of the mold really thick and to retard the curing process, this makes a better finish product and when you are pouring baits and the mold heats up it wont want to warp on you. also you can add 2 screws to the back of the wood prototype to pull out of the mold. vaseline makes great mold release with fiberglass resin, smear a thin coat on so its fully covered. if you have finger marks i flame a torch quickly over the bait to smooth the vaseline. sometimes i have used wd40 and it has worked well. to much petroleum based product for a mold release will puddle and make a pocket in the glass resin. best bet is to just make a mold with the plastic in this case, then cast a wax version and soup out some pop and go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.JPG)