BassNator 1 Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 I am asking a Polling question but also to find out what the material of choice is for frisketing or masking your lures for air brushing? What type of frisket are you using if any, and how many lures are you making out of the same frisket? I have been using the badger brand, but it doesnt seem to hold up all that well. I can only get maybe one or two shots and its pretty much unusable after that. Sometimes its very tacky... other times it shoots right off. What other kind of tips and tricks do you guys have up your sleeve for frisketing and masking. Thanks for the help and input. Cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 What is a frisket? Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clemmy Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 A delicous whole wheat biscuit? No wait...that's a Trisket... :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassNator 1 Posted January 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Frisket Material is kind of like in laymans terms almost like Contact paper. The kind you put on the inside of drawers.... BUT ITS CLEAR and see through and definitely not as thick or heavy. I have a little bit of Airbrushing skills from doing T-Shirts and Illustrations so this is the "preferred" item for masking. You draw the areas you want masked onto the frisket film and then take an exacto blade to it, You dont want to cut ALL THE WAY THROUGH IT, just through the film. Its a little bit on the flimsy side (the film is) with a paper backing to protect the tackiness of the film. It is designed also to be reusable, but if you do a few detailed cuttings on the frisket, you arent going to get a lot of reusable life out of it! It is NOT A LONG LIFE THING! You may only get a few sprays before its unusable. You place it on the lure and with its tackyness, it will stick to the lure and you can airbrush an area without it overspraying or get some good straight lines. Skeeter your lures are pretty well airbrushed, so then my question is... do you mask any certain areas to airbrush or are you doing everything freehand. If you do any masking, OR ANYONE WHO DOES, what is your preferred method and your preferred materials? For instance if you are making a Perch or Firetiger design, do you freehand each of the lines or do you have a mask to precisely put the lines or areas of paint on? As I go through the gallery I do notice some lures that definitely have a masking technique used of some sort. Where ever you get your airbrush supplies you can ask for the frisket film and they can show you what it is. For instance, Carolina Chip in his tutorail used a "Masking Material" for his Phishbones design. Ok, what is the preferred 'masking material'. Im gonna be honest, frisket film can get a little expensive from the hobby stores or the art stores that sell you airbrush supplies. So what is the least expensive, and what is everybody using. I hope I illustrated that question better and I hope you have a better idea of what it is. But I will also add a link to a site that will tell you what it is better than I could. Cody http://www.arttalk.com/artv1109-6.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Brush Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Cody, I've been using plastic sheets cut from 3ring binder document protectors. They hold up pretty good. I've seen some manufacturing plants that use stencils made by vacuum molding a hot plastic sheet to lure halves. They are washable and last a long time. I am planning a new approach to stencils by getting some Plasti dip. It's really cool stuff. Plasti dip is a soft plyable plastic when cured. To use it as a stencil you can dip the bait into the dip-it can, let it cure then cut an exit for the bait along the underside. It creates a custom form fit stencil. I've heard of doing it that way with latex rubber but latex wears out. http://www.plastidip.com/consumer/index.html Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Art Brush..Have you done this method before with plastic dip?....I've used plastic dip before on jig heads,and used the spray on version to coat crankbaits..(experiment)....this stuff is TOUGH!!!..I don't know if you can get it off..or off in one piece to use as a stencil...Let me know because it is a great idea!!..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Brush Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Nathan, I've yet to try the plasti dip. I've been lookin for it in local xmarts that used to carry it. You're right about it bonding to the surface. It's used as tool grips and other non slip applications. The plasti dip is thick like eggnog and will coat well. I have used petrolium to keep it from sticking on plaster years ago and it worked ok. I'm gonna try dippin a "dummy or blank" lure thats been topcoated. Dipping an unpainted top coated lure as apposed to one that is unpainted will allow a little slack for when you get a few layers of paint on. The stencil can then be planned on the blank. If anyone gets a chance to try the plasti dip stencil before I do please post a performance report here. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverMan Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Clemmy, got a kick out that comment, had me singin that ole tune. Artbrush, I have used the plasti-dip on many occassions for coating foam lures and the stuff is quite amazing. Like Nathan tho, I'm wondering how you are going to get the stuff off of the lure. What if you first covered the entire lure with tin foil or saran wrap making sure it was tight against the lure. Then cover the whole thing with plasti-dip and let dry. In this way the whole stuff should just sllip right off, just an idea. Otherwise a guy could try some kind of release on the lure before applying it but this could turn into a HUGE mess. Jed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 The petrolum jelly(spelling?) is a good idea so is the saran wrap..as for finding the clear plastic dip..janns netcraft carries it...we use to have a coast to coast store that carried the stuff aswell as the spray on version..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Brush Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Jed, With the seranwrap approach I wont be able to get it in to the details of the gill plate on my lures. The tin foil or metal foil surface would also require some kind of mold release but would be a non porous surface. The seams or any wrinkles would need to be sealed with some thick laquer (im tryin not to envoke the wrath of Skeeter by saying "nail polish") ll No I'm not a hairdresser or affiliated with any fab5's. The petrolium jelly did work when I tested it on a plaster mold a few years ago but I had to grease the plaster a few times untill it was all soaked in. I gotta get some plasti dip lol Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjoman Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 This site describes a latex masking fluid for free hand masking: http://www.larrysart.com/Art-Supplies/About-Masking-Fluid.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 I use the plastic dip method. I coat the lure with a single coat of polyurethane and after curing, I plastidip it three time....letting it dry between coats. I then split the belly and peel the mask off. After that, I use a fine tip permanent marker to draw pattern and a fine tooth "tine" dremel bit to cut out design. Chip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Brush Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Thanks Nathan, I will have to wait to order some. When I get it i'll post. Walt. I've worked with latex before but not as a stencil. I found that it wears out quickly regarless of how much you pamper it. The plasti dip should be alot more durable in theory. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverMan Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Chip, I'm very surprised that you can get the stuff to come off of the polyurethane. They advertise it for coating tool handles and such and would think that adhesion would be a big part of the product, interesting. Jed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Look at the base of the drill press. Just to the left of that, you'll see a white box in the background. Infront of that is a lure that looks kind of red. That is a "Plastidip Mask" that i made to paint several molded lures for a fella. I pulled the mask off after the third coat. It was still soft, but firm enough to remove from the bait without tearing it. I am painting the above pattern and cut slots in the mask to do the vertical lines. hope this helps! Chip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassNator 1 Posted January 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Hey Chip, Now thats the info I'm after. A good step by step guide on that would be awesome. I have never done a plastidip kind of a thing but it sure does sound like its the ticket. I gotta find out more about that! Cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted January 29, 2004 Report Share Posted January 29, 2004 Well guys let me tell you what I use. I use heat shrink from Radio Shack. It comes in four foot lengths and also in various sizes in diameters. Lets take a stick bait for instance. I'll use the 3/4" diameter heat shrink. I will paint up a sample. Then slide the heat shrink over the bait. Shrink it down until if fits tight. While it is still on the bait I will cut out the gills or dots or fire tiger stripes or craw pattern or what ever. Then I slice the heat shrink down the belly and back long ways. Then, on the next bait I slip the 2 halves together over the bait, then I put a piece of duct tape or masking tape down the middle of the back to act as a hinge. The heat shrink can be cleaned many times. I only do this If I have many baits of the same type and pattern to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted January 29, 2004 Report Share Posted January 29, 2004 Learned alot in this post fellas. You can get the plastic dip at Lowes in the paint section. I was going to get some to redo the handles on some tools. They have it in different colors too. Cody, Everything except the scales I freehand. I use to use a mask for eyes and dots. But now I just dot them with a small steel rod that I found. Art Brush, You are only dead meat for the hairdryer thing. You and FF probably work in the same salon. However, clear nail polish is good stuff. I have used hard as nails for several clearcoat projects. The stuff is tuff. I found this out last time I had my nails done. Tim, Really good idea. I have had trouble with shrink tube tearing sometimes. Guess I better develope a touch. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted January 29, 2004 Report Share Posted January 29, 2004 Skeet, If it tears on you, you are probably using one size to small. The bait should float in the tube real loose before you heat it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
