DIY An Instant 1/2 Rd RTV Silicone Mold For Under A Buck.

[irbassnut]

Hi,

I used a plastic Orginal ,no coating of any type,mixed the Silicone with a small amount of water,( 1 table spoon to a 16oz cup) When I removed the mold(about 1 hour) I noticed that any excess water had surrounded the worm and made the mold smooth.It took 3 pours before the Salamander came out shiny.I have seen this on other new molds as well,they seem to pick up something in the hot plastic before they turn shiney that is left behind,I have also seen this on molds that I haven't used in a while.

I had some small bubbles all through the mold but not in the cast.

I think the amount of water is very critical, I will be making 4 more molds and will keep you posted . I want to measure the exact amount of water and silicone,this is just to good to be true.

I have about 25 molds ,but the more of one kind the faster productivity.

Ray

Tombstone Baits

"The stupied questions are the ones you where afraid to ask"

"Knowledge is power,Pass it on !!! "

[rockslide]

has anyone had a problem Acetic Acid odor transfering to there baits

how do i get rid of this Acetic Acid odor

[irbassnut]

Hey Ron,

Curing time and use will remove the smell,I still get it sometimes off RTV molds,If the temp gets to high.It is a problem that we all live with when pouring baits.

Make sure you work in a well ventilated area whenever you work with this stuff or pour baits.

Do not do this in your house.!

And use the new plastic that is Phthalate free.

Good luck with your Project.

Ray

Tombstone Baits

Any one else out there got any suggestions??

[Husky]

very good, smooth and shiny! How did you get your finish so smooth? That is a problem for me, I have difficulty with the RTV H2O accelerated with some bubbles. I had been cautiously coating the model with a skin coat before filling the mold with the RTV when making a new mold.

What is your procedure? Thanks in advance.

I believe that the White performs better than the clear, for our use. The White I used was more malleable, felt it gave a smoother, softer mold. I'm curious if anyone else has experienced that.

[rockslide]

has any one tried this stuff to thin there silicone

I'm looking for a way to thin it out any suggestion would be appreciated

[rockslide]

i found this stuff called xylene on another form has anyone tried it

[Husky]

has any one tried this stuff to thin there silicone

I'm looking for a way to thin it out any suggestion would be appreciated

Everyday Paint Thinner will work. Try 5 -10% by Weight and see how that works out. The Sealant will become more viscous, but not liquid, whereas the Liquid RTV's will become noticeably thinner. Trial and error.

[Piscivorous Pike]

has any one tried this stuff to thin there silicone

I'm looking for a way to thin it out any suggestion would be appreciated

If you are looking at economics to use the wally RTV then thinning adds price that takes it out of that consideration. Likely will make it more viscous but you will never get it to pour like liquid RTV.

jgreer.com has thinner too, but they also have a couple of RTVs that you can make molds out of and those look to be the least expensive I have found in web searches.

If you use Husky's two RTV mold method it is easier and cheaper than thinning the Walmart RTV and trying to make that RTV caulk pour like thin RTV.

Husky uses a little bit of the good stuff around the model to make the actual mold portion and fills the rest of the mold block space with the cheap RTV. You can either fill the space with solid already set chunks of the caulk and bind it with the good RTV or you can fill in the space with the water accerated RTV and be done with it and use only the amount of the expensive good RTV necessary to cover the model. He has a post somewhere on these methods and they work.

My next silicone molds will be made with the two products to extend the good stuff and cut costs.

[rockslide]

yes it works fine as is just wondering if it can be improved

[nugene]

is the paint thinner you're talking about mineral spirits or lacquer???????i want to thank you all for the imfo as i am d--- tired of ordering the $35 rtv....nugene

[Husky]

is the paint thinner you're talking about mineral spirits or lacquer???????i want to thank you all for the imfo as i am d--- tired of ordering the $35 rtv....nugene

I'm glad to be of service. I used a mineral spirits type thinner. Practice on a few and you'll ace this technique.

[rockslide]

ok i ran into a problem! i made a mold yesterday and it came out pitted! small pin holes everywhere! what do you think could have went wrong. i used the clear Mainstay this time could the clear be the problem. when i made a big swimbait some time back it was also pitted but not this bad. from what i have seen from the molds everyone is making around here this is not a problem so i have to be doing something wrong. this is what i do squeeze out the amount im going to use for the mold splash some water onto it and mix. so far so good ! then i scoop a small amount into the mold and cover the surface of my master. then fill the rest in. wait like 20 minutes or so an crack it open. were did i go wrong. now i have to find a hand crank meat grinder to recycle some of these mistakes. i got like a quarter of a 5 gallon buck full of bad molds. i can use some help

[Husky]

ok i ran into a problem! i made a mold yesterday and it came out pitted! small pin holes everywhere! what do you think could have went wrong. i used the clear Mainstay this time could the clear be the problem. when i made a big swimbait some time back it was also pitted but not this bad. from what i have seen from the molds everyone is making around here this is not a problem so i have to be doing something wrong. this is what i do squeeze out the amount im going to use for the mold splash some water onto it and mix. so far so good ! then i scoop a small amount into the mold and cover the surface of my master. then fill the rest in. wait like 20 minutes or so an crack it open. were did i go wrong. now i have to find a hand crank meat grinder to recycle some of these mistakes. i got like a quarter of a 5 gallon buck full of bad molds. i can use some help

I haven't had that issue with any of mine, but I used the squish method, for most of mine. FWIW, try covering your model with a very thin coat of untreated Sealant, give it a spray of water and then finish it of with the water treated mix. Just remember to use a Mold release on the model when using it untreated, as it will adhere when not water treated.

For 2 part molds, I still use the high price RTV, BUT only enough to barely cover the model. When that sets I then fill the rest of the box with the water treated sealant. That way the model is encased with the very thin RTV but the majority of the mold is made from the less expensive sealant.

M

Edited September 16, 2009 by Husky
More Input

[Piscivorous Pike]

ok i ran into a problem! i made a mold yesterday and it came out pitted! small pin holes everywhere! what do you think could have went wrong. i used the clear Mainstay this time could the clear be the problem. when i made a big swimbait some time back it was also pitted but not this bad. from what i have seen from the molds everyone is making around here this is not a problem so i have to be doing something wrong. this is what i do squeeze out the amount im going to use for the mold splash some water onto it and mix. so far so good ! then i scoop a small amount into the mold and cover the surface of my master. then fill the rest in. wait like 20 minutes or so an crack it open. were did i go wrong. now i have to find a hand crank meat grinder to recycle some of these mistakes. i got like a quarter of a 5 gallon buck full of bad molds. i can use some help

I think it is bubble, comes from mixing the water air mixes in it, I had that problem. Go up in the thread and see how I "skinned" the model to eliminate the air on it, use a thin coat of RTV out of the tube to skin it and cover that with the water mix.

I also describe a way to use a plastic vacuum bag to mix the water without air. You can achieve that also my manually squeezing the air our of a baggie after you dampen it to mix in the water. It will still mix air in but not as much.

I think the biggest solution is to skin the model.

[nugene]

husky.....your advice about adding paint thinner sure helps.....i still got a few voids but i think skinning the master with virgin silicone on the next will solve that.......when i made my master i went ahead and put the lip in it......made a box (11/2" pvc pipe) long enough for the lip....before i pour the resin i put a lip in the void the master made and now it's molded in instead of glueing....in addition i put the belly weight (which has a hook hanger in it) in the mold with a small dia mono and pull the eye up into the slit at the proper place.....so when i pull the lure all i have to do is glue in the rear hook hanger....works great....also i learned real quick you don't have to heat the wally silicone as much as you do the the allumilite rtv3 rubber.......that resin came back out of the hole like a volcano!!!!!!!!! again to all of you for sharing your tricks....nugene

[Husky]

husky.....your advice about adding paint thinner sure helps.....i still got a few voids but i think skinning the master with virgin silicone on the next will solve that.......when i made my master i went ahead and put the lip in it......made a box (11/2" pvc pipe) long enough for the lip....before i pour the resin i put a lip in the void the master made and now it's molded in instead of glueing....in addition i put the belly weight (which has a hook hanger in it) in the mold with a small dia mono and pull the eye up into the slit at the proper place.....so when i pull the lure all i have to do is glue in the rear hook hanger....works great....also i learned real quick you don't have to heat the wally silicone as much as you do the the allumilite rtv3 rubber.......that resin came back out of the hole like a volcano!!!!!!!!! again to all of you for sharing your tricks....nugene

You're welcome! Pics, Please.

[nugene]

i,ll have to get someone here to do that for me.....i know just enough about this PUTA to be dangerous.....later nugene

[Pitbull Baits]

Whats the fire rating on the silicone that is being used. I think it would release a nasty toixic fumes every time you pour them when they were heated up. Don't you have to be in a well vent area to use this type a silicone. At work we use the cheap stuff like at wally world but its for outside work. We buy a higher costing type silicone for inside work because it is less toxic to breath plus it has a high fire rating. Isan't the flash point lower than the temp we pour plastic at after it drys. As for them lasting would it be like silicone that is used out side wouldn't they just crack and fall apart after while. Do they transfer the master well or does the master get ruined after after it is used once?

[Husky]

Whats the fire rating on the silicone that is being used. I think it would release a nasty toixic fumes every time you pour them when they were heated up. Don't you have to be in a well vent area to use this type a silicone. At work we use the cheap stuff like at wally world but its for outside work. We buy a higher costing type silicone for inside work because it is less toxic to breath plus it has a high fire rating. Isan't the flash point lower than the temp we pour plastic at after it drys. As for them lasting would it be like silicone that is used out side wouldn't they just crack and fall apart after while. Do they transfer the master well or does the master get ruined after after it is used once?

Good questions.

First, pouring plastic should be done in a well vented area, regardless. It has no trouble with the heat of plastisol and showed no indication of reacting to the hot plastic. I've tried pouring lead, which didn't work out well, BUT there was no burning of the silicone. As it is an All Purpose silicone, it is for usage, inside and out. This silicone isn't supposed to crack, dry out or shrink and the label says "permanently flexible.".

The silicone needs ventilation while it is curing. As it is recommended for Kitchen and Bath Room use, places where people spend a lot of time:) It is reasonable to believe it isn't considered toxic once cured.

The masters come out unscathed and can be used again.

[Husky]

Here's my latest effort. I made a model from a hard bait and paddle tail cast from urethane resin. 5 minute epoxy and some sanding made them one.

Then I squished it into a box. I needed to cut a thin relief line to allow the model and any subsequent pours to come out.

To make the bait run right, I added a 2 gm. steel shot, I spread the mold out so I could get the paddle completely filled. Once I did that, I put a rubber band around the mold to keep it tight, and continued the pour.

This is how the pour came out of the mold.

After a quick cleanup with the roller cutter, it came out like this. If you look closely above the 7" mark you can see the shot.

I'd say that was 80 cents, well invested. BTW, the white silicone definitely performs better than the clear! It seems smoother and more pliable.

That's what I learned at Hammer Mechanic School Today.

Edited September 21, 2009 by Husky

[Gator44]

Husky - I've been trying to figure out how to make a silicone mold of a bait with a very similar profile (rounded back and belly and paddle tail) and your post is a great help. However, from the pictures I can't figure out the orientation of the model when you pressed it into the silicone?

If it was belly first, how did you get the curved back?

If it was on it's side, how did you get the paddle tail formed?

If it was back first which seems most likely as the flash is on the belly, how did you get the curved belly shape?

I love your silicone method and can't thank you enough for all your posts and great insights.

[Husky]

Husky - I've been trying to figure out how to make a silicone mold of a bait with a very similar profile (rounded back and belly and paddle tail) and your post is a great help. However, from the pictures I can't figure out the orientation of the model when you pressed it into the silicone?

If it was belly first, how did you get the curved back?

If it was on it's side, how did you get the paddle tail formed?

If it was back first which seems most likely as the flash is on the belly, how did you get the curved belly shape?

I love your silicone method and can't thank you enough for all your posts and great insights.

Belly first. The flat back part of the top is the open area of the mold, where I pour. Other than that area everything is under the silicone, which is why I needed to give it the razor cut.

I used a hard model as a soft one might "move during the Squishing process. I also buttered the model in Silicone prior to the squish.

Where In Rhody are you? I'm in NH.

Edited September 21, 2009 by Husky

[Gator44]

Husky-

Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to copy a Storm Shad and will give it a try though it is more difficult as I'm working with a plastisol model. However, I've had success copying a different soft plastic bait with a paddle tail by inserting thin wire pins into the tail to give it stiffness. I then ran a thin pin through the bottom of the tail and gave it a couple of light taps with a hammer to embed it into the plastic board that I had glued the model to. That gave the tail vertical rigidity. Finally I coated the tail with a fairly heavy coating of quick set silicone and let it harden for more rigidity before squishing it into the mold box. It came out great.

I live in Westerly,RI right on the coast at the Connecticut border. Where in N.H. are you? I'm using my soft plastics for strippers, false albacore, and bonito. Unlike most people my problem is to make baits that are hard enough so that they don't tear too easily in the tough salt water environment. Unfortunately no one else in the area that I know of pours their own baits so this forum has been a great help.

Several years ago I started making molds to cast a plug called a Reverse Adams that was no longer produced. I was using RTV silicone and making the plugs out of epoxy. I tried many time to use regular silicone and always had the problem that the silicone towards the center would never cure so it was a real eureka moment when I saw this thread about water curing. It would have made my life a LOT easier.

[Husky]

Husky-

Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to copy a Storm Shad and will give it a try though it is more difficult as I'm working with a plastisol model. However, I've had success copying a different soft plastic bait with a paddle tail by inserting thin wire pins into the tail to give it stiffness. I then ran a thin pin through the bottom of the tail and gave it a couple of light taps with a hammer to embed it into the plastic board that I had glued the model to. That gave the tail vertical rigidity. Finally I coated the tail with a fairly heavy coating of quick set silicone and let it harden for more rigidity before squishing it into the mold box. It came out great.

You did everything I would have thought to have done.

I live in Westerly,RI right on the coast at the Connecticut border. Where in N.H. are you? I'm using my soft plastics for strippers, false albacore, and bonito. Unlike most people my problem is to make baits that are hard enough so that they don't tear too easily in the tough salt water environment. Unfortunately no one else in the area that I know of pours their own baits so this forum has been a great help.

Merrimack, right on the MA line. I was at the Block 2 weeks ago and would be back now if I could! When you pour your own, durability isn't that big of an issue. I think of them as Bait. I don't care if I go through everything I have as long as they're producing. Those castings I posted cost pennies and if Blues happen by, no Biggie.

Several years ago I started making molds to cast a plug called a Reverse Adams that was no longer produced. I was using RTV silicone and making the plugs out of epoxy. I tried many time to use regular silicone and always had the problem that the silicone towards the center would never cure so it was a real eureka moment when I saw this thread about water curing. It would have made my life a LOT easier.

If it didn't harden near the center it could be one of two things; You didn't mix it properly (Which isn't likely as the rest set up) or the RTV is reacting with the model. The original Atoms were first generation plastic and could be the problem. Did you use one of those Blue/Wh ones or the clear amber? For your cast hard baits, try Dascar Plastics in MI. Google Dascar, they're on EBay. $69 for a 2 gal kit, 14 lbs. I use it on my hard baits with MB's and on my FoTins. It's great and inexpensive. PM me with any questions.

[lajo1976]

I