Husky Posted September 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2009 I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted September 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2009 I tried "Squishing" a BIG Sluggo type. This is the largest one I did to date. This mold cost just under a Buck, but it was close!. The casting came out exactly like the model. I buttered it before squishing to catch all the under cts of the head and tail. It's 1/2" nearly round, not flat bottomed. Time From model mock up to pouring in 1 hr. It seems that these large Baits are all the rage in SW from Stripers to Tuna. The finished bait is 26 gms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmctanker Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Wow thanks for the idea husky. I made my first mold yesterday. Super simple. I made a mold for 4 stick baits. Next I am gonna try a swimbait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 I got a rush order for a 9" Sluggo Type, in white. I knocked out the model and molded it, then made these pours, all in a couple of hours. Finally, I went over a buck in Silicone! Only by 5 cents, though. Here's the model, eyes and all, affixed to the squishing board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irbassnut Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 After much expreiment with Wallmarts RTV,I have come up with a very clean mold. Here is the formula; 1/2 teaspoon water 6 oz.RTV White 1 drop of LC Blue dye,this seems to be a big factor in the procees,It seems the dye has some type of a catalyst that that really set's the RTV off,No air bubble intrapment! The mold comes out very clean and looks like the ones you would buy. I have tried the same with the clear and still had alot of bubble's The White RTV and Blue dye are a big factor. Will post pics in a couple of days to show results,. I have a few more molds to make Ray Tombstone Baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 (edited) That is so good to read! What is LC blue dye? I will get some; Husky already convinced me the white is the way to go over clear. How did you come up with the knowledge to experiment with the dye? That has me really curious... LC site is down, or I just can't get it. Is it an RTV dye or a plastisol colorant, pigment? I have one only of a one of a kind commercial jerk that interestingly another guy posted on a forum in 2005 trying to find them too, it is what led me to TU. The jerk was made by an out of existence company that was physically on the same street as Humminbird. It really entices strikes and likely the action was an accidental feature when it was first marketed. The tail shank is not round, it is not elliptical either, in cross section it is a rectangle with elliptical ends. That causes the unusual subtle action that Esox queue in on. Well, it is the last one in this image : http://www.noreast.com/issue_data/issue_files/116_Soft%20Plastics.jpg I have a few molds made for this jerk. The thin tail section is the key to its unique action and difficult to pour. It needs injection whether using positive head pressure or draw in with vacuum. LC has a mold for it but that is a half size and they too have difficulty hand pouring it. My one example is shot from being glued down so many times. No reproduction I have is perfect enough for me. If I can get a good tail it can be glued do a Bass Assassin, those are in the upper right of the above photo, and those will do. Recently I made a top pour one piece mold from a 7" Fin S fluke where I inserted 2" of section from a Mr. Twister slug, (slug go would work) that is a grand daddy to this 5 " Creek Town jerk with the fluke. For some reason the undulating tail gets pike strikes on lock jaw days! This pattern in all sizes works very well with the soft formula plastics when fishing it nose hooked, never texaposed or through the slot. As soon as I can get the LC dye, I am making another mold, just a one shooter and using injection to see if I can get some good copies to make a gang in POP. THANK YOU! Edited October 11, 2009 by Piscivorous Pike get rid of html tags Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irbassnut Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 It's just LC blue color,came up with the Idea becaus it was hard to see what I was pouring with the Clear or White. It changed the whole mold out come. And was much easier to pour. Try it you'll see the difference right away Ray Tombstone Baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 Hopefully they use the same formula for their other pigments because I have hot pink and green here now. LOL No Blue on Hand, tonight. Hot pink it will be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irbassnut Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 Nice looking jerks You can probable use any blue color you have on hand Thay all have the same ingredents Ray Tombstone Baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irbassnut Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 Here is the number for LC 1-800 925 9088 Talk with Kim Straley She is nice and get you what you want Nice talking with you Nite Ray Tonbstone Baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 After much expreiment with Wallmarts RTV,I have come up with a very clean mold.Here is the formula; 1/2 teaspoon water 6 oz.RTV White 1 drop of LC Blue dye,this seems to be a big factor in the procees,It seems the dye has some type of a catalyst that that really set's the RTV off,No air bubble intrapment! The mold comes out very clean and looks like the ones you would buy. I have tried the same with the clear and still had alot of bubble's The White RTV and Blue dye are a big factor. Will post pics in a couple of days to show results,. I have a few more molds to make Ray Tombstone Baits WONDERFUL, MANY THANKS! It worked, there is a major difference in that white and when I mixed it like yours, pretty pink however, it flowed very well! Not like liquid, a thick batter not really sticky either, I was able to "paint" a skin on the model and noticed it went on so well I just dabbed onto the model to get a good air bubble-less surface. I built the first half of a single cavity two piece mold. The top is setting up and it has not detail, basically just a cap. If it were not for the thin tail section of this jerk bait I could pour it as a one piece as I glued it down on its flat top using a week yellow old fashioned rubber glue. I am going need to glue it down on a base board like all RTV, but that is the nataure of RTV, in order to clamp it together for injection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Nice looking jerksYou can probable use any blue color you have on hand Thay all have the same ingredents Ray Tombstone Baits Thanks for that, Ray. I was thinning it with mineral spirits, but this sounds better. I'll give it a go, asap. I hope silver works, because that's what I ordered. Is there any difference in the end product? I s the mold as hard as without the colorant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irbassnut Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 The mold is still flexable and more like the molds you would make with a 2 part RTV AS for silver ,I don't know. You may want to stick with a solid color,Silver has some other stuff in it(not sure what)but it seems to seperate even with constant mixing. Good luck with it Ray Tombstone Baits:yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 The mold is still flexable and more like the molds you would make with a 2 part RTVAS for silver ,I don't know. You may want to stick with a solid color,Silver has some other stuff in it(not sure what)but it seems to seperate even with constant mixing. Good luck with it Ray Tombstone Baits:yay: I second the response, My Friend, Husky, since you told me to use the white I had not made a mold. So I do not know how it it is to use the white straight up. I did not have the formula with me. The tube is ten ounces, I used about six in the bottom half of the little mold, then the rest of the tube in the top. I did not remember how much colorant so I put in about two drops an ounce and about a teaspoon of water per mix. Its consistancy was creamy and not really sticky. It daubed in very easy and spread easy. I made a mold box about six and a half inces long and inc wide, I hot glue paint stir sticks together, home depot freebies. After filling the box I was able to apply pressure to the top of the mix and squeeze it to insure it covered all the small voids. It set about like all the other rtv as far as speed goes. I used pink LC colorant. The mold is like two part rtv in texture and flexibility. Being I built a two piece I glued paint sticks for support on the bottom of each half with clear silicone after it was done. I had glued the model to the bottom using a poor yellow old fashion formula rubber glue so I could remove it unharmed later. It is a sole survivor of an out of production jerk bait. I learned on TU that RTV is best for one piece molds, not two piece. This little guy supports that. I wanted a mold that would exactly duplicate this sole surviving model as it is getting beat up. It looks like an exact copy by eye. It needs injection to work. I ran a wire across the top half of the mold to create a side to side channel just below the tail flukes of the jerk. I put a daub of hot glue between the tail and the wire, both being set on the bottom half containing the model. After setting I used a small scissor and clipped the little minute piece of rtv between the impression of the fluke and the air vent channel now moldedinto in the top half. This will facilitate injection down the very small and narrow tail shank of the jerk bait. I used a wire nut as the sprue, it sat so close to the nose that a very thin piece of rtv was clipped to join the cavity to it when done. It came out perfect. I am amazed of how the stuff worked. I wonder what is in the colorant. I think it is only plastisol with a thick suspension of pigment. I am going to try a test using white rtv with a few drops of plastisol to see if that is the secret ingrediant. LOL-what if searching all this time for a dilutant and we find it is the plastisol, the very substance we all have on hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lajo1976 Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Will the LC colorant thin slicone caulk or are you talking about RTV silicone? I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Will the LC colorant thin slicone caulk or are you talking about RTV silicone?I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTfishingrods Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Colors are softener with pigment or dye added for the color depending on what color it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Colors are softener with pigment or dye added for the color depending on what color it is. I have some of the new degassed soft plastisol, I believe it is a Calhoun plastic and it is very soft, I will give it a try soon and let you know. A little of it into the white RTV, some with some with out water and see how they compare to some staight up. Get three solutions going for a test run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irbassnut Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 Hello. Still woking with the silicon,The press mold seems to work the best. The colorant is for 2 reason's 1. It does seem to have some effect on the silicon as far as bubbles 2. It gives me a visal aid when stirring it up,I can tell if a get a good mix I tried nixing with just colorant any it did not work,it slowed down the drying process to 4 days!!! The water is the answer ,but the colorant still works,only a drop or 2 Good luck Ray Tombstone Baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 (edited) Good photo of the mold, it looks like the texture I got following your recipe. Being a two piece mold though I glued using un-altered silicone on the back to glue it to a piece of backing board to make it more sturdy to mate up without distorting. I am waiting on an injector, and then I will likely convert all my one piece molds to two piece molds. My one piece have all the pour sides being the flats side. If I fill them with plastic then I can cast a top to them. I was thinking about a hybrid! Bottom is POP or DWP with the cavity and the new 2cd half being this modified RTV. For one thing there would be no curing process like with the pop or dwp, I would be ready to go. I think only a board on the top of the RTV would be necessary to firm it up when pressing it to the POP side. Thanks for all your hard work and even more for sharing it. I will use it, I learned a lot from your experiments. Edited October 18, 2009 by Piscivorous Pike spelLnig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Wow. I think I need to print this and spend a week reading it. Tons of good info from all. Thought I had tried about everything with silicone. Makes me re-think the commercial RTV's, but am curious as to how the molds hold up over time. I have RTV molds that are well over 10yrs and have poured many thousands in each cavity. But for the $$$... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 The stuff we are working with is usually advertised as either 50 year or 35 year sealants. I would expect good service from them because of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBK Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 The stuff we are working with is usually advertised as either 50 year or 35 year sealants. I would expect good service from them because of that. If I don't get 36 years out of my newly made worm mold, I'm asking for a re-fund! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I hope I am around in 36 years! That would be 94 yoa. Golly, almost an old guy, at least it is not a 95 yoa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 The stuff we are working with is usually advertised as either 50 year or 35 year sealants. I would expect good service from them because of that. Tolerance of prolonged exposure to temps around 350 degrees is my concern. Will be neat to see how the first molds are working in a year. Obviously for the money it might be ok, but would hate to lose a good mold to failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
