MackDSM Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Hello all, This is my first post at TackleUnderground, although I've been lurking for a little while and reading through countless posts. I'm trying to create my own mold for pouring lead sinkers. I've read through the different methods that can be used, but would like to make my mold with the intention of it lasting a long time, with heavy use. I have access to, and experience using milling machines, so I planned on using aluminum blocks and milling out the cavities for my sinkers, but aluminum stock is proving harder to come by than I expected in my small town. Does anyone have any experience creating lead pouring molds out of mild steel stock? Any input or advice on how this would fare? Obviously it would rust over time, but if stored properly, that wouldn't be an issue. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Welcome to Tackle Underground. There are several thing you can do. Do-it molds still sells flat mold blanks that are pinned, for the do it yourselfer. This would be a better choice, as aluminum is light, and you can create your own pattern on 1/2 of the mold then duplicate it on the other 1/2. Since you're a machinist with a little time, you will have a beautiful foolproof mold. I also believe you can get them at barlow's tackle. Here is the link they will definitely be cheaper than the manufacturer. Barlows Tackle Shop: Browsing Blank Molds . Now you can make it out of steel, and it will work but your hand will get pretty tired after pouring for a long time. I too have never had problem with steel rusting. Just coat it with a good heavy oil after it's cool and it will last forever.......Hope this helps.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeves Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 I agree with cadman. Get the blank Do-it mold and half your work is done for you. The hinges and handles are all complete, all you need to do is machine the cavities of the part you want. Sounds like a no-brainer to me. Good luck and welcome to TU. Post on your results please as it is always enjoyable to hear success stories. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 @ MackDSM Hi , welcome at TU ! I am a metal worker , too(operating CNC grinding machinery , but did an apprenticeship as a tool maker 30 years ago) ! At my works I am lucky to get aluminium pieces for free on the scrabyard , so I never bothered about making molds out of softer grade steel . You'd really need industrial grade machinery for it ,.......I made the cavities on my aluminium molds with a "Dremel" and various router bits , after having them pre-drilled on a drill press , and this really takes the "Dremel" to its limits , ......I had one spoilt , as the router bit into the metal and the center drive axis deformed to run off center afterwards . But if you've got the right machinery , softer steel won't make a big difference to aluminium , I suppose ,...... would only take longer production time , as the machinery feeds can't be chosen as fast as with cutting aluminium . Are you gonna utilize CNC programmed machines or manually operated ones ? One French guy in here once displayed beautiful aluminium molds for plastic lures , that he obviously did on a CNC router . And I know of one or two guys at my work , that did molds for saltwater pirks that way as well(I don't have access to a CNC router there , ......no router at all !) When making your steel molds , make sure to get all surfaces as smooth as possible , probably even polished , so they would not be as vulnerable to rust , maybe also "brown"(sorry , don't know the exact English for it , it is an electric/chemical process to get the steel's surface to a brownish/black color)the steel , this also helps a little against rust , ........but mainly always oil them well and wrap in plastic , when stored ,....always SEPARATE all parts , so they won't bind together with rust ! But I guess , that on a long run it is easier to face the problems of finding a source for aluminium material , even if having to drive a longer way , .....you could google for sources and/or try looking for scrabyards in your vicinity(yellow pages??) , sometimes one can be lucky in such places as well . good luck , diemai:yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackDSM Posted July 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 Thanks to everyone for the input and the warm welcome! Cadman/Reeves > I did consider purchasing a blank DO-IT mold, but had a couple concerns that have kept me from doing so. The first being, that I'm located in Canada, and most places I originally found that sold the blank molds were all in the United States. Once I had factored in shipping costs, and whatever duty and any other charges, it ended up being a less than cost-efficient route. I've since found a Canadian supplier for DO-IT molds though, so it is still an option. However, the other issue was that even if I did purchase a blank mold, I would still most likely have to completely tear it down and remove the handles, hinges, etc. This is the only way I could see being able to properly place the aluminum stock in the milling machine, to ensure accurate cuts. I think with everything considered, I would be better off locating some aluminum stock that is a little closer, and having it shipped to me, or using the mild steel that I have on-hand. Diemai > My work is an industrial steel racking company, and we don't work with aluminum at all. This puts me at a disadvantage for accessing the aluminum stock, but on the plus side, our milling equipment, lathes, etc. all have the necessary tooling to deal with harder metals already. I also don't need to worry too much about the extra time it might take to drill the cavities with the steel, as I'm planning on starting with a simple mold for some very small sinkers, and if it works out well, I can branch off from there. But no, I will not be using CNC programming machines. The cuts/drilling will all be done using manually operated machinery. If I had access to a computer controlled mill, I would definitely go that route. But the mill I'll be using is no slouch either! It has an electronic readout with accuracy down to either ten-thousandths or hundred-thousandths of an inch (can't recall exactly at the moment). It also can be at least partially programmed, so that I can have the mill automatically move a specified distance and stop. This way I'll be able to ensure that the cavities on both plates are almost exactly equal and perfect! Anyways, I'll look a little longer to see if I can find a good source for aluminum stock, and if not I'll try going the mild steel route! Either way I'll be sure to come back and update here, as you guys are a great help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelly Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 One place you might not have thought of is a cast aluminum engine block, transfer case, any cast aluminum. But not aluminum cans that is low quality aluminum. Make a square mold in the dirt (dig a hole)sand mixed with a small amount of oil works but smokes bad. If you just dig a hole the ground it needs to be Farly dry! or the aluminum boils! Use up most caution here. (lead melt safety) times that by five. Melt the aluminum in a cast iron pot and dump it in the hole. Now you have a block to machine flat and work with. To get the fire hot enough to melt the aluminum. A peace of 1/2 black pipe hooked to a air supply will stoke the fire very hot. The end of the pipe needs to be in the bottom of the fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackDSM Posted July 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 Just thought I would update this with some pictures and information on the progress I've made. I located a piece of aluminum stock that I was able to cut in half and use as a starting point for my drop-shot sinker mold. I'm not sure what the spec's on DO-IT's dropshot mold are, regarding the length that weights you pour come out as, but I had purchased some dropshot sinkers previously, and felt that I would like mine to be significantly heavier for my own personal use and preference. I machined 7 cavities into my mold; 3 at 1/4" Dia. 2 at 5/16" Dia. 2 at 3/8" Dia. I also made the length of each pouring cavity longer, at aprox. 1-1/4" (a little more for the larger diameter weights, simply because it cut more out of my taper). I started by using a 1/2" starter bit, which acted in my case as both a pilot hole and a countersink to bevel the pouring edges. I then used the appropriate size drill-bits for each of the sizes listed above. Following this, I used a 7/64" drill bit (which most closely matched the size of the collar of #7 DO-IT line grip swivels, according to my calipers), and drilled even deeper into the original cavities. Finally, I used an end mill to create an open section for the rest of the swivels to sit freely in, at the bottom of the mold. I haven't been able to test my mold yet, as my lead and melter are both at my cottage. I'll be headed up there this coming sunday for a couple weeks, and will give it a try as soon as I can. I have however, already encountered a couple issues. First, although I did think of it at the time I was milling out the mold, I think I need a new method of holding the line-grip swivels in place. When test fitting the swivels in their current locations, I've noticed that it doesn't appear the cavities are snug enough to keep them from falling to the open section below. Since I'm not doing mass-production, and this is simply for my own use and fun, I will probably just suffer through right now, and put tiny dabs of RTV in the swivel cavities to hold them in place while I pour. The second issue is that on a few of the smaller cavities, I did notice a little bit of wander from the bits, which is evident with a close look. This is just due to me rushing while trying to get this finished during work hours . This is much less consequential than the first issue, and is only really a problem if I'm feeling like being a perfectionist. Anyways, if anyone has any tips, tricks or advice for v2.0 that they'd like to share, please do so! I'm always open to suggestions! (Also, I apologize if the pictures are not of the highest quality, since this was done at work, I used my cell phone to take these!) -Steve http://www.mreah.com/dropshot1.jpg http://www.mreah.com/dropshot2.jpg http://www.mreah.com/dropshot3.jpg http://www.mreah.com/dropshot4.jpg http://www.mreah.com/dropshot5.jpg http://www.mreah.com/dropshot6.jpg *They are also a little large!* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdsaw Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Looks pretty good Steve. I guess that you will be either snipping the pour end off or not filling it to the top? As far as the swivel issue, you could install some kind of pin in the open relieved area that the swivel could slip over to keep it from sliding down. Such as a pressed in roll pin that is small enough to fit the swivel eye? Or if you have any threading taps over there, a small screw without a head or set screw that will act as a pin. Keep us informed with your progress Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
