plasticpaul Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 heres a mold i made using casting resin and omyacarb ( talc like product) its of a 6'' grub (obviously). My question is to anyone else who makes resin molds. mine arent that shiny? not alot of gloss, are you guys doing anything else to your molds after ie buffing or waxing? i would assume that i wouldnt nead to seal it with epoxy or "elmers" as its already sealed, or will this give a better shine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 When I made resin molds I just used straight resin (Bondo) and did not have a problem with "shine". If your master is shiny there should not be a problem. Maybe the talc (which I never used) is the problem. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauruck Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 Hey Paul, I work with resin everyday and it works like this. The mold will produce exactly what you made it off. If you want a good gloss on it you can use a burnishing compound available from the resin supplier. I use it for two reasons. A good release of the product and for a smooth part from the mould. If your mold is very rough at present you can start off with 1200 water paper and move on to the burnishing compound from there. Good luck and if you need any advice I'm on and off every 3 hours or so. Mikey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticpaul Posted July 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 hey tauruck, i get what your saying in regards to molds replicating the product molded, maybe i should have been a bit ore specific, although i do have some buffing compound for f/g so ill give that a shot. im making my molds off another s/p. these are for my use only but im a bit fussy, is there any way of glossing up a sp before molding? even the atomics with there high sheen come out dull when molded. also am i breaching copyright with this if they are for personal use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauruck Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 hey tauruck, i get what your saying in regards to molds replicating the product molded, maybe i should have been a bit ore specific, although i do have some buffing compound for f/g so ill give that a shot.im making my molds off another s/p. these are for my use only but im a bit fussy, is there any way of glossing up a sp before molding? even the atomics with there high sheen come out dull when molded. also am i breaching copyright with this if they are for personal use? I only enlarged the pic after I posted the comment last night. It all became clear. You're obviously using a filler that you mix into the resin. These fillers create porosity and depending on the grain size this could be better or worse. Paint gel coat onto the s/p sample and when that goes Green (tacky to the touch) pour in your resin mix. You'll have a durable long lasting shiny surface. This will cure your problem for sure. As for the copyright I'm not sure but my guess is that if you tried to sell your product and pass it off as original you would most surely have a problem. Let me know how the molds turn out. Mikey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticpaul Posted July 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 i dont think that the perosity is the problem here, ore likely the finish of the master im using. good call about the gel coat, i didnt think of that.... i have some lying around so i'll give it a go, the filler is mixed in with the resin but is only very fine, its called omyacarb but i did mix it 50-50 into the resin, but still other polyester resin molds havent had that shine. the only problem i can see with using gelcoat in a 2 piece mold is one half will be poured with green gelcoat and the other half will be fullly cured when poured, do you think this will affect it? i'm going to try nd buff this mold with a dremmel too, and see if this helps. the baits im making are definately working, (havent tried the one in the pic) but other ones caught me a few bass this morning, maybe im just picky in my search for perfection... this site has such a great think tank and you've already saved me a few hours of think time and opened me eyes to a wider vision. thanks alot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green_Fingers Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Pul, I have never made/used resin molds..but make/use POP molds, i always brush a little veggie oil (not veggiemite!) into the cavities before every 2/3 pours i find this helps get shinier baits. With the baits your resin molds make, do they not get shiny when you put them in a bag with a few drops of worm oil? Nice two peice grub mold your tails come out really well! Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 What is the purpose of the talk? Why not just use straight resin. I too suspect the talk is causing your problem. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauruck Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Straight resin normally suffers from exotherm if poured in a container/mould without filler with polyester being the worst resin for that. It warps, cracks and gives off noxious fumes. In most cases it will destroy the sample as well. Paul, just do your molding the same way as normal but use the gel coat. You obviously use a release agent when your first side has cured and repeat the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Thanks Tauruck, didn't think of that. Personally, I use a mix of polyester based filler with polyester resin, for ballast lead weights. I don't do plastics, but I did some resin castings and the detail was amazing. From the information that I collected by googling, the amount of catalyst used is critical with larger casts, too much and it overheats and cracks. Here is a link to a recent thread on the subject, worth reading, especially post #17: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/16214-what-should-i-make-mold-out.html Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Speaking stricktly as a fierman, not a bait maker, I think the extra texture is a good thing. It will give you baits an entirely different hydralic profile in the water. Send me the ones you think are too rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticpaul Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 im thinking that if i am doing the same curl tail i will have to do the gel coat in 2 halfs on the master with some sort of release between the two half (of the master) or ill have to cut the gelcoat somehow to get it even in both halfs of the mold, do you get what i mean, hard to explain.... when i try this, maybe tomo or next week, i'll take photos as i build it as a reference for anyone else trying this, hopefully i can help others and get feedback on perhaps a better process, maybe add to the tutorials when perfected... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauruck Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 im thinking that if i am doing the same curl tail i will have to do the gel coat in 2 halfs on the master with some sort of release between the two half (of the master) or ill have to cut the gelcoat somehow to get it even in both halfs of the mold, do you get what i mean, hard to explain.... when i try this, maybe tomo or next week, i'll take photos as i build it as a reference for anyone else trying this, hopefully i can help others and get feedback on perhaps a better process, maybe add to the tutorials when perfected... Paul, this is really easy. I'll go one step at a time. Retain one of your non shiny mould halves and get the plastic bait back in it if possible. It should be lying in the mould level with the split line. Now you apply your release agent (PVA) to the whole thing, cover the plastic bait and the resin well. When the release agent is completely dry put the box you originally built back around it or put the mould half in the box. I don't know how you did it the first time. Get the apropriate size paint brush, mix your gel coat/hardener and cover the entire mould half. When that is cured you can pour in the same polyester rein/filler mix you originally used. The next day you flip the mould over, split the halves and discard the old non shiny one. Clean the new half with water but try to leave the plastic in postion. A soft wet sponge works best to remove the PVA release. When the half is bone dry reapply fresh release agent and repeat the gel coat process again etc, etc. You'll have two new shiny moulds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticpaul Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 awesome, thanks a heap. i'll need to get some pva and not sure if the supplier is opem today, i made the box out of ti,ber but its since been destroyed on other projects. i'll get cracking and post the results soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CATSPURRFECT Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 Hello To: tauruck---- What GEL COAT are you talking about? Can you do a tutorial on how to use that? I need to make my MASTER that i make out of clay...SHINEY...so when i do my actual mold--The plastic mold will then be shiny=] Thanks in advance guy =] CATS-PURRFECT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basseducer Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 plasticpaul, I understand your desire to have shiny baits, but as you mentioned that your dull baits still catch fish. I for one can't tell if a bait is shiny or dull once it's in the water. Maybe it has to do with reflection or something, but once they get past a certain depth does light play a roll in this. I don't have any resin or pop molds, but I have treated some cavities on my aluminum molds with an etching solution to achieve a dull surface to make dull baits and they seem to work just fine. Just my . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 As said. a dull bait will be shiny in the water anyway. I have pure resin open pour molds and the baits come out rather dull. I use less hardener than reccomended so it cure a bit slower and less heat build up. ...Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 Gary Yamamoto has been successful with his dull baits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Betty Posted December 7, 2020 Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 I have the opposite problem. I sculpted a hunan figure out of plasticine (oil based clay) and made a mold. This was. First used fir a bronze list wax cast which came out great. Then I used it to cast same sculpture in polyester resin and the sculpture surface came out very shiny. I would live to retain the mat surface in polyester resin. Any suggestions please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
