Few questions about swimbaits, and crankbait lips?

[bassboss]

Hey! I'm new here! IslandBass told me about this web site!

Ok, so I'm some stuff! Right now I've got only to making top waters, and right now I'm making a swim bait, and also wanna make some crankbaits too. First off I wanna know how to simply attach the links of the swimbait. right now I'm just thinking about just taking open screw eyes and clamp them together. Would that work? Also, regarding crankbaits, how do I put on the lips, and what martial should I use for the lips? And how would I get the line tie on? And, what color do you think I should paint the swimbait, it's 4.5" and mostly there are minnows (3-5") and the very accational shad (I fish ponds). Water's any where from clear to heavy stained. And last, do you think I'm asking to many questions?

Thanks for all the help!

[diemai]

@ bassboss

First.....welcome at TU !

Indeed an interlocked pair of screw eyes is about the easiest way to hinge the sections of a swimbait , ........it undoubtely works out(provided , that they sit perfectly aligned) , but most people want less gap inbetween the single sections and therefore utilize interlocked wire forms or screw eye/slot hinges , connected by a pin .

You can make sturdy crankbait lips out of circuit board , clear polycarbonate(Lexan , Makrolon)or different sheet metals(consider about higher weight) ,.......... do not use plexiglas , as it easily breakes on impact .

In a nutshell.........these lips are epoxied into a slot somewhere at the chin of a lurebody , their downward angle roughly presets the diving depth of the bait(amongst a LOT of other issues on crankbait dynamics).

There are also kinked metal lips available , that are supposed to be screwed under the chin of the lureblank , these are most likely used on big and buoyant pike and muskie lures .

The line tie could be placed directly onto a metal lip ,........ but on a lip of some plastic material it should be part of a wire form leading through the entire lureblank and also have the hookhangers included .

Most likely only deep and medium divers have their tow eye on their lips(lip would be longer and point more or less forward) , anyway , ........shallow divers and wake baits have it connected to the body , at about the nose or sligly below ,..... the lips on these baits point more or less downward .

I'd suggest to browse through the gallery and threads a bit , just by some close looking you would surely get some anwers and ideas .

good luck , diemai

[bassboss]

@ bassboss

First.....welcome at TU !

Indeed an interlocked pair of screw eyes is about the easiest way to hinge the sections of a swimbait , ........it undoubtely works out(provided , that they sit perfectly aligned) , but most people want less gap inbetween the single sections and therefore utilize interlocked wire forms or screw eye/slot hinges , connected by a pin .

You can make sturdy crankbait lips out of circuit board , clear polycarbonate(Lexan , Makrolon)or different sheet metals(consider about higher weight) ,.......... do not use plexiglas , as it easily breakes on impact .

In a nutshell.........these lips are epoxied into a slot somewhere at the chin of a lurebody , their downward angle roughly presets the diving depth of the bait(amongst a LOT of other issues on crankbait dynamics).

There are also kinked metal lips available , that are supposed to be screwed under the chin of the lureblank , these are most likely used on big and buoyant pike and muskie lures .

The line tie could be placed directly onto a metal lip ,........ but on a lip of some plastic material it should be part of a wire form leading through the entire lureblank and also have the hookhangers included .

Most likely only deep and medium divers have their tow eye on their lips(lip would be longer and point more or less forward) , anyway , ........shallow divers and wake baits have it connected to the body , at about the nose or sligly below ,..... the lips on these baits point more or less downward .

I'd suggest to browse through the gallery and threads a bit , just by some close looking you would surely get some anwers and ideas .

good luck , diemai

Thanks a lot diemai!

[mark poulson]

I've never fished there but, from what I read, golden shiners are the big bass candy back there, so you can't go wrong with a shiner paint scheme.

[bassboss]

I've never fished there but, from what I read, golden shiners are the big bass candy back there, so you can't go wrong with a shiner paint scheme.

There's an idea!

[BobP]

For shallow running baits, down to 5 ft or so, a line tie on the nose is the typical solution. The closer the line tie is to the surface of the lip, the harder the bait will thump. The more down angle you have on the lip, the wider the action will be and the shallower the bait will run. The longer the lip, the deeper it will generally dive. Nothing on a crankbait works in isolation; all the parts influence each other dynamically. It's a good idea to take a look at the lip configuration on some baits you admire and use that as a starting point for your own bait. The lip slot is best cut immediately after you cut out the blank, while it is still "square" and before you start contouring and rounding off edges.

[bassboss]

For shallow running baits, down to 5 ft or so, a line tie on the nose is the typical solution. The closer the line tie is to the surface of the lip, the harder the bait will thump. The more down angle you have on the lip, the wider the action will be and the shallower the bait will run. The longer the lip, the deeper it will generally dive. Nothing on a crankbait works in isolation; all the parts influence each other dynamically. It's a good idea to take a look at the lip configuration on some baits you admire and use that as a starting point for your own bait. The lip slot is best cut immediately after you cut out the blank, while it is still "square" and before you start contouring and rounding off edges.

Kewl! Thanks, great tips too!