WidowMaker Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 I have some collared bullet weights i need to dip with Spike It Blade Dip and apply a coating of epoxy. These weights are poured from a softer lead have been sitting for a while and are no longer shiny but have "greyed" in appearance. I want maximum adherence of the blade dip and the epoxy. I do realize the epoxy will eventually be beaten off the surface of the weight. My thoughts are to either wash them with vinegar to remove the oxidation or to put the in a plastic coffee can with some sand and attempt to tumble them to a shine? Im thinking if the oxidation has pitted the surface a bit then it could be possible the vinegar will neutralize the oxidation but yet still leave the oxidized residue imbedded in the surface of the lead. Im also thinking if i tumbled them with the sand it may reduce the "nose" of these weights which will result in a bit thicker point. This thicker point may not be succeptible to being beat up as bad as the sharper nose and maybe the blade dip and epoxy will be prone to last a bit longer. I will be placing tubing sections over the skirt collars to maintain their present size. Any thoughts on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatman Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Use the vinegar and then rinse them off in warm water. Keep a piece of heavy line or wire to push through the hole in the head to let the vinegar through. When you dip them you're going to need to put a wire through for dipping so the paint doesn't clog the hole anyway. On the epoxy use 2 thin coats not one heavy as it will drip. Fatman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 (edited) Hi John, Where have you been? I haven't seen you on the site in a long time. I got your message last night. Call me tonight after 4:00pm and we can discuss the questions you have.....I sent you a PM about 3 weeks ago.......... As far as my thoughts on your question above. If you don't care that they are shiny, then clean with vinegar like Fatman said, then dip in blade dip, bake the blade dip and then clearcoat with your choice of clear. I personally would go with your last statement....." Im also thinking if....... maintain their present size". If you want them shiny agin and pit free, than this is the ticket. However like you said, the nose will be more round and this make take more time to get the sand out of the hole. I actually don't think that this is a bad idea, the rounded nose will have less tendency to have weeds cling to it............ Edited August 5, 2009 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogajiga Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 How hot & long do you bake the Blade Dip? I once tried brush coating an epoxy top coat over uncured BD & the epoxy reacted with the BD unfavorably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 (edited) How hot & long do you bake the Blade Dip? I once tried brush coating an epoxy top coat over uncured BD & the epoxy reacted with the BD unfavorably. Hi Keith, I take a jig or a blade ( make sure they are clean) dip it in Spike-It Blade dip, in and out really fast. It will dry in 10 seconds. It will go from dull to shiny. I then take it on a hanger that I dipped it in (I use christmas ornament hooks) and rack them on my oven rack. Bake at 350 degrees (Fahrenheit) for 15 minutes. I let cool and then I put Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) 30 minute over it. I brush mine on. I have never had any problems with it at all. I can't comment about any other epoxy or clearcoat though, because I have never used them. Edited August 5, 2009 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 What is tha advantage of powder paint over blade dip? The reason I ask is because I use the blade dip to make red hooks and once in a while I'll color some blades but I never used it on jig heads or anything but I know it's a lot easier dipping into the dye than it is the paint. I know the dip chips off my hooks and blades but thats because I don't have a top coat applied but this has me wondering if I can do jigs with the same results or does the cured paint hold up alot better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogajiga Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Ted, thanks for the baking info. I think the heat cures the laquer(?) so it won't run when reacting with epoxy. I use Component Systems 50-50 2 part epoxy, if that doesn't work I'll get some Devcon 2T. Altho significantly less durable than powder paint, I like how the blade dip dries transparent enuf to allow the underlying sheen of a fresh jig head to shine thru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 What is tha advantage of powder paint over blade dip? The reason I ask is because I use the blade dip to make red hooks and once in a while I'll color some blades but I never used it on jig heads or anything but I know it's a lot easier dipping into the dye than it is the paint. I know the dip chips off my hooks and blades but thats because I don't have a top coat applied but this has me wondering if I can do jigs with the same results or does the cured paint hold up alot better? smalljaw, the blade dip is definitely easier to put on than powder paint. The finish of the blade dip looks like all the candy colors of powder paint Pro-Tec sells. I have all the colors of the blade dip, and I also have some of the colors that are no longer available. The colors are very vibrant. The jigs and or hooks must be coated with D2T. That's the only way I sell it, as it would never last any other way. On the flip side if you put on candy colored paint, you would not need a clearcoat. A clearcoat would only be used if you want extra protection, or just deepen the color on your jig. PM me your e-mail, and I'll show you some pics of the blade dip on jigs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Ted, thanks for the baking info. I think the heat cures the laquer(?) so it won't run when reacting with epoxy. I use Component Systems 50-50 2 part epoxy, if that doesn't work I'll get some Devcon 2T.Altho significantly less durable than powder paint, I like how the blade dip dries transparent enuf to allow the underlying sheen of a fresh jig head to shine thru. Keith, for speed and ease of use, you can't beat it. However the drawback is that it's not very durable without a topcoat. Even with a topcoat, once the topcoat is compromised the blade dip will just wear out.........Good luck and let us know how it works out for you.................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 I dipped the weights in the Spike It and baked them in a small toaster type oven at 300 for approximately 15 minutes and the blade dip looked is if it had melted off the weights. (I checked under neath the rack and it hadnt run off). I re-dipped them again and baked them at about 275 for ten minutes and they turned out fine. If i recall correctly i once saw a post where it was stated that if you mix your epoxy in a tin lid where the lid was being cooled by water it would noticeably decrease the set up time of the epoxy. Is this true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 If i recall correctly i once saw a post where it was stated that if you mix your epoxy in a tin lid where the lid was being cooled by water it would noticeably decrease the set up time of the epoxy. Is this true. Yes this is true. There are a million ways to do this so I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted August 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2009 (edited) I think i remember the part about using the bottom of an aluminum can. I think i might try putting a cast iron skillet in the freezer and then flipping it upside down and placing some heavy duty aluminum foil on the bottom and wrapping it down the sides and around the edges. That should give me plenty room to mix small batches as i go. Its been a while since i used any epoxy on a bait and best i can remember i only used enough epoxy and resin to cover the area of two dimes laying beside each other. Im wondering if the skillet will be to cold to properly work the epoxy and resin together. Edited August 12, 2009 by WidowMaker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 I think i remember the part about using the bottom of an aluminum can. I think i might try putting a cast iron skillet in the freezer and then flipping it upside down and placing some heavy duty aluminum foil on the bottom and wrapping it down the sides and around the edges. That should give me plenty room to mix small batches as i go. Its been a while since i used any epoxy on a bait and best i can remember i only used enough epoxy and resin to cover the area of two dimes laying beside each other.Im wondering if the skillet will be to cold to properly work the epoxy and resin together. Definitely do not mix more than you think you can apply on your baits. In about 15 minutes, it will start to get really thick, where you won't be able to apply it...........As far as the cold skillet goes, try it and let us know. I do know some guys used to put the Devcon in the fridge. I have never done this, but I think you will find, that by putting it in the fridge, will definitely make it harder to dispense, but I could be wrong......Definitely let us know your outcome, as I'm curious on what will work for you. This way we all can learn and gain more knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted August 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 I didnt get to try the cold skillet but i got the weights finished out with two coats of epoxy per weight. Either time was flying quick or the epoxy was setting up a lot sooner than 15 minutes. I picked up some of the blue glitter in the craft section at WALMART and used it on a few of the extra weights. I applied the epoxy and completely covered the weights by sprinkling the glitter on them. The end result was a pretty rough layer of glitter where i let it set overnight and then applied epoxy over that rough layer of glitter. The end result was the glittered ones have an excessive built up look to them and im not too crazy about that result. Im thinking next time i can apply the epoxy and sprinkle the glitter and let them sit for a couple minutes and then take a dry brush and kind of lightly brush them so as to lay the glitter down closer onto the epoxy. This might take care of that roughness and reduce the amount of epoxy it takes to smooth it out. And i also learned i need to find another source for the Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 Mix the glitter in the epoxy, then apply. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 Mix the glitter in the epoxy, then apply. This was going to be my next suggestion. There are several other things you can try. #1 Once you get the blade dip baked, you can apply Pro-Tec powder glitter on. It comes with the clear or with out. I use the one with the clear. Apply like you would powder paint. You can then bake it again, or just clear over that with Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) for better protection. The problem with Pro-Tec glitter, is it doesn't cover evenly. (Just my opinion.) I like a smooth glitter all around the entire jig. So try #2 instead. #2 Get some Herbie's Magic dust powder glitter. It is a finer glitter than Pro-Tec, but once you put it on, it covers the entire jig with a fine shiny glitter. They have a website. #3 There is also some spray on glitter, which covers very well also. I think it is made by Krylon...........You can check the hard bait section here on TU for their comments. Just some thoughts for future consideration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
