Gloomisman Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 I've been pouring a ton of poisen tail heads lately. The problem I'm having is the flashing or just lead getting into the eyelet and having to be dug out. This is in both my molds on the poisens but none of my other molds:eek: So I need to talk through this with you guys. Here is what I was thinking. Either peen the alum. around the eyelet to restrict the lead from going in there or using some JB or gun bedding compound to fill that minute void. The thing is the void is so minute I'm affraid the jb might wear out real quick. Any of you guys have good solutions to this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 Gman, the only time I have ever had this problem is when I use hooks that are smaller in diameter, and not meant to be used for a particular mold. Since I interchange a lot of hooks that happens, but I only get it on the hook part right under the hook eye never in the eye. I guess you can try JB weld as it can't hurt. Worst case scenario, is you put in JB weld, and it wears out, and you try again. About all the info I can give you on this. To all others, one other bit of info now that I think of it, is my friend pours quite a bit and this is how he screwed up his molds. (Gman not to say you did this). But my friend has a tendency to use bigger diameter hooks than you are supposed to. Instead of opening up the cavity at the hook shaft and the hook eye to accept the larger hooks, he just slams them shut smacks them with a hammer and pours.....This is a no,no:pissed: as #1 he springs the mold at the hinge pin, and #2 he opens up the cast out aluiminum features where the hook shaft lays and where the hook eye lays. So now when he pours the correct hook, everything has flash, and yes lead was seeping into the hook eye area and into the hook eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 GMAN I have some JB Weld that has been holding for over 10 years with several thousand jigs made. Only once have I had to replace any and I have it in several mold mods. My PTs do it sometimes and I take a pair of old gate cutters and clamp onto the wire and run them around and most of the time the lead falls off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted August 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 Cadman, That might be my problem. I do use an upsized hook but I havent smashed my mold or anything. They have always just fit good never tight. The smaller (recommended) hooks were worse then the bigger ones. I wonder if the molding or casting was a hair off when it was made. Oh well, Im going to try Jigmans suggestion to tighten these suckers up some. This would save me tons of time of picking eyelets out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogajiga Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 (edited) G-Man, are your PT molds closing tightly? If you hold the mold up to a backlight is there an excessive amount of space between the closed halves? Altho Do-it claims to precision machine the mold faces flat many of my Do-its needed work for a tighter fit. Also, my molds need periodic maintenance to GENTLY shave off raised blips with a razor blade, usually tiny lead particles stuck onto the faces, for optimal tightess. Edited August 17, 2009 by hawnjigs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 Cadman, That might be my problem. I do use an upsized hook but I havent smashed my mold or anything. They have always just fit good never tight. Gman, I have used 1 size over and 1 size under like you have, and never had any issues. Sometimes depends on the mold, the 1 size under will have some lead leach out by the collar where it ends, but I just trim that away. Also as I'm sure you know all the molds aren't identical, along with all of the cavities. I have a round jig mold that all the cavities pour fine except one, it's always been a problem. I borrowed my friends, and the one I have a problem with pours fine on his, but he has a different one that he has problems with. So there you go. I think you will solve your problem with the JB weld. Anyway it's an easy fix.............Let us know how you do........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted August 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 Will do. Thanks for the help. Either it will be a IT WORKED or an I GOT ANOTHER MOLD ON THE WAY respons. I'll try it on one mold before I do both of them with it. I think it will work though. I will just have to be careful to get everything set right. One more question that doesnt pertain to this. My football molds pour alot of times with a hole in one side of it toward the top. I cant figure this one out for the life of me. I guess its just an air pocket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 Will do. Thanks for the help. Either it will be a IT WORKED or an I GOT ANOTHER MOLD ON THE WAY respons.I'll try it on one mold before I do both of them with it. I think it will work though. I will just have to be careful to get everything set right. One more question that doesnt pertain to this. My football molds pour alot of times with a hole in one side of it toward the top. I cant figure this one out for the life of me. I guess its just an air pocket. Hey we got to stop meeting like this....People are going to start talking. Believe it or not I just got done pouring some and I had the same problem.....You are correct it is an air pocket. This is what I did to solve the problm when I was pouring them last week. Can't say another day won't be the same problem. Any way solution # 1 I turned the heat up to #8 on my Lee IV bottom pour pot, then I stuck the sprue hole of the mold right into the pour spout. Like forced injection. It worked for about 150 pours, then it started again. #2 I then took a piece of my fibrglass tape and taped it on the inside of one half of the mold sides. It worked like a charm. Here is the theory behind the tape. If you are pouring the cavity closest to the hinge pin, put your tape as close to the poured cavity. If you are getting to much flash, move it further away, from the poured cavity, until you get perfect pours and no flash. The closer the tape is to the cavity, the more open space there will be between the two mold have leaving a slight gap. Even if the tape is really thin. This is a trial and error thing for location of tape on the mold. But like you, if I get 50% bad pours, it makes sense to make adjustments than waste time and keep on pouring and hoping the next pour will be a good one..................This has worked for me. I try not to get crazy and start putting in vent lines. Any time you put in a vent line, you add the possibility of more lead to seep through and more things to clean on your jig...........I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted August 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 G-Man, are your PT molds closing tightly? If you hold the mold up to a backlight is there an excessive amount of space between the closed halves? Altho Do-it claims to precision machine the mold faces flat many of my Do-its needed work for a tighter fit. Also, my molds need periodic maintenance to GENTLY shave off raised blips with a razor blade, usually tiny lead particles stuck onto the faces, for optimal tightess. I'll check this out too. thanks for the idea. Very possible problem. Thanks Cadman too. Lets see what happens more to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 G-Man, are your PT molds closing tightly? If you hold the mold up to a backlight is there an excessive amount of space between the closed halves? Altho Do-it claims to precision machine the mold faces flat many of my Do-its needed work for a tighter fit. Also, my molds need periodic maintenance to GENTLY shave off raised blips with a razor blade, usually tiny lead particles stuck onto the faces, for optimal tightess. I would really check this out .. can be a problem. JSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21xdc Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 I hate flash so much, I drill almost all of my molds eyelets out deep and fill with permatex copper rtv silicone to the top over full and razor blade flush after it dries. This eliminates all my trouble. But thats just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdsaw Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 21xdc, That's an interesting way to cure your problem I guess that the high temp silicone is able to handle the 600 degree temps of the molten lead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21xdc Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 Yep... 700* and if it ever did wear out/leak... You drill it back out and fill it up again. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Copper_Maximum_Temperature_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted August 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 well I just got done doing a bunch of custom fitting and some jb'ng around the eyelet. The head to eye area is to close on my mold cavities. That is why there was lead oozing into the eyelet area. So I just fixed it. So tonight is the pouring test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted August 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 well, Just for an update. I poured these modified heads and oh what a difference. No cleaning, no deburing the eyelet. Pours perfect now!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogajiga Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Did you need to drill out the eye socket? And, what tool did you use to shave off the excess JB? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted August 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 well my process was kinda long but worked perfect I used an engravers tool to open up and score the eye socket to fit the hook perfectly. Then I took some 300 grit sandpaper and put it around the shank of the hook and opened up the part that supports the other end of the hook. I did this on both sides of the hook. After that I used that same 300 grit sand paper and a razor. I used the razor on top of the mold to make sure it was level and no lead or debris on it. Smothed with a block and paper. Shiny now. After that I used the JB in the eyelet. This is where it got tricky though. just a little bit and you have to wait till the JB gets a little less sticky and keep putting the hook in and out of the mold so it conforms and I was extremely careful that the JB didnt go into the cavity or over the edges of the mold. After that I sanded with the block lightly to make sure. There isnt much JB in it at all. Just enough to fill the voids of the cast mold. I poured about 6-10 jigs in 3/8-1/2 in it so far. Thats not much but all I can say is this 3hrs of work will probably save me 10 fold in hrs of scraping and eyelet cleaning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Sounds like you are good to go Gman. Many happy pours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogajiga Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 GLMan, are you using oversize hooks? Congratulations on a successful project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted August 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 I'm putting a 4/0 in the 1/2oz slot. It says 3/0 on the mold but its too small imo. I use 4/0 in the 1/2s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 GMAN that is the one that has been driving me nuts. I am having to crack the mold to get the 4/0 to pour. What is your secret? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted September 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 GMAN that is the one that has been driving me nuts. I am having to crack the mold to get the 4/0 to pour. What is your secret? Refit the mold to accept the bigger hook. Its the only way its going to work right IMO. I've been fighting that for along time and finally just got so tired of it I modified it. So far so good. Only time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 I just had to put in my . One KISS solution, that happens to be foolproof, fast and easy is to fill the eye of the hook with clay prior to pouring. You only need enough to fill the eye, but a tad extra won't mess up anything. Removal of the clay, after pouring is a snap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
