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Artificial All The Way

Clearest plastic

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Compared to all the other plastics available out there Shane. I have cooked them all ona hot plate and in the mic. M-F is the clearest for sure.

You can get a tint of yellow if you cook the saltwater to fast but that is from the plastic starting to scortch. If you cook it a little slower, it is crystal clear as well.

Jim

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I know you have Jim, I was currious about others and if they had the same results. Again wasnt trying to make an issue about it. Just wanted clarification on wether it was compared to 2 plastic formulas or 15 formulas. Helps to know that others have had the same results as Jim has had or others may have. Then you go into the comparing of all the super softs against each other all the mediums against each other and the hards and so on. I dont think we can compare a supersoft to a medium plastic and be fair about it. Just way to many variables in the mix here. Soon I will have all the samples I need and will post the blind poll up and everyone can see which one will be the clearest. This will be interesting. When I do it though it will be all soft in one, med in another and hard in another. Then Jim can laugh at me and say I told ya so.:lol:

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I know you have Jim, I was currious about others and if they had the same results. Again wasnt trying to make an issue about it. Just wanted clarification on wether it was compared to 2 plastic formulas or 15 formulas. Helps to know that others have had the same results as Jim has had or others may have. Then you go into the comparing of all the super softs against each other all the mediums against each other and the hards and so on. I dont think we can compare a supersoft to a medium plastic and be fair about it. Just way to many variables in the mix here. Soon I will have all the samples I need and will post the blind poll up and everyone can see which one will be the clearest. This will be interesting. When I do it though it will be all soft in one, med in another and hard in another. Then Jim can laugh at me and say I told ya so.:lol:

if there cooked Properly and in an oven then you take all the varibles out, saltwater and supersoft of the same brands will come out identical. as it has the same componets in it.

you can;t do a real test cooking in the mircowave , pot or stove, and you definately CANT do it by tempuature. as every plastic has a different tempature that it cooks at.

Also if it sets too long then you run into a burning issue IE the yellow tint. every plastic also has its own type of heat stabilizers most importantly the amounts.

heat stabilizers for the most part are a yellow tint as well. the more you have the more yellow tint you have to start with.

Delw

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In my opinion, it will be hard to judge from one person cooking them and photographing the samples. Not to say your information will not be interesting Shane. It will be. How would you decide the proper cooking for each sample? Will you use a hot plate, mic, pot for each sample? Will you cook in pyrex and aluminum pans, other pans? I guess my point is, with all these variables, it will be hard to reach any conclusion, except for at your specific location, with your specific equipment. If there were several different individuals cooking samples in various methods, with various equipment, in different shops, then the results would be interesting to see.

Just from the responses on here, a consensus builds that M-F is clearer than the others. I purposely cooked my samples on a heat plate, microwave and hot pot for testing. I will say Del is dead on that just becuse you heat one vendors sample for 2 minutes in a microwave does not mean that another sample can be heated the same to get the optimal results.

While I agree the components in all the plastisols are the same, some use far more expensive types of these components. Just look at how most plastisols hard pack or have some form of hard packing where others have virtually none. Less expensive resins are heavier and pack much faster.

Anyway, I think that you must get your own samples, cook them on your equipment, at your place, with your surroundings and decide what works or is best for you. In addition, you must also consider all the other characteristics of a plastisol product beyond clarity to be sure it works for your application. There have been impressions given in past posts of all plastisol products judging many characteristics, including clarity. These were conducted by those who have been "cooking" for years and were given as information to help see how products stand up. They were not scientific in nature but I would put weight in the results as the individuals have been involved in hand pouring for many years. I was not one.

While we could test these products in a controlled laboratory somewhere, the results would not be worth much as there are few, if any, that will actually use the plastisol in those conditions. We must test by using the mic, burner, etc as that is how the products are being used and will be used.

:twocents:

Jim

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I use a few different brands of plastic...depending on what bait it that I'm pouring...and how clear a plastic is is near the bottom of my list of desired properties.

1. Ability to NOT absorb water

2. LOW memory

3. Resonance

4. Low odor

5. Tare factor

6. Heat stability

7. Pouring viscosity/min. pouring temp.

8. Storage/settling

9. Clarity

10. Cost

ALL of plastics that we have available are very very clear regardless of brand and to be honest it should not be a factor. I did a spread sheet 3-5 years ago and gave a bunch of data(burn temps, duro, tare factor, resonance...yada yada yada) it should be in the search functions somewhere.... However there are a few new players since then so its not quite as useful

Edited by camrynekai
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Your close...it was around the same time give or take a 1/2 year. I am almost 90% positive I posted it here... but I may have done it on NYBASS also. Things have changed since that spread sheet...Calhoun's developed bubbles and Lurecraft also changed so like I said its kind of unusefull info. I am going to have to try and find my Tentalometer that I used to do the tare factor and maybe do a new chart for 2010...I have several brands of plastic and even have a few proto types to throw in the mix. I have one prototype (370CX17585) from Chemionics that is very promising for stick pourers but until I do some further testing I'm not sure if it will out perform the M-F sinking plastic (ease of use and low salt requirement) or Ozarks SS for the ultimate wiggle....but the almost 0 smoke and near 0 odor is really tipping the scales for Chemionics.

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I don't think you would ever get "true" results with so many variables. It would be very difficult to control. I do agree with a previous post that clarity is not on the top of my priorities. I've tried many different plastisols and most if not all were clear enough for me. What's more important to me is that (with sticks) they don't fall apart. Worms that keep their shape after bagging and minimal preparation prior to pouring. Minimal fumes and smell so I don't have to go back to the doctor is a big plus as well. I don't clear dip so it just isn't that critical an issue for me. I think Senko Sam did a comparison study a while back but accuracy without more control is suspect. :twocents:

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While we could test these products in a controlled laboratory somewhere, the results would not be worth much as there are few, if any, that will actually use the plastisol in those conditions. We must test by using the mic, burner, etc as that is how the products are being used and will be used.

:twocents:

Jim

Loads of great info guys. Thanks guys.

I hear many of you don

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I have only used MF Saltwater, and Calhouns Tube, Calhouns has better hook holding properties than MF. Problem I found with MF was, where your jighead would come out the lure, would seem to rip/tear and plastic is slippery if that makes sense, would not stay on jighead well. Is good clear plastic.

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