Kris Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 I'm looking for some masking material. Something that will wrap around the contours of the crankbait body, you can see through, and leaves a crisp edge. I've tried painters tape but can't see through it and missed my cuts. I've tried Frisket but it seems to only work on a flat surface. Any suggestions??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Ck with auto body paint stores thay have one that is pliable and should work for your application. I will post the name when I call my supplier. It is frosted in color and rough enough to write on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Is this the stuff you tried cause I think this is the same one I have used. It comes in high tack also.http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksmask2.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Posted November 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Frank, That's not the stuff I have tried. The stuff I tried is by Grafix and called Prepared Frisket Film and is clear. Like I said it works if used on a flat surface. It will work on the side of the crankbait but if you try to fold it over the top ... there is no "give" to cover the irregular shape of the body. If I'm making sense. I'll try to describe in words what is happening. If I lay a piece on the left side and and fold it over to the right side on the top towards the lip the Frisket will lay smooth. But towards the back it won't ... it crinkles up and if you go ahead and press it down you end up with a bad masking job on that end. Just wondering if there is anything out there that will conform to the shape of the crankbait body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 That is a pretty large order for a product like that. If I understand you right it has to shrink at the end. The stuff I use will strech and shrink but not that much in a small area. Maybe you should consider stencils. There are some here that make then from thin plastic and heat. If I find such a product I will be sure to let you know. Maybe the next time I go to the sign supply store. Sorry About that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted November 21, 2009 Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 This might be worth a try.http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F%2D103&cat=23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68KingFisher Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 (edited) This might be worth a try.http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F%2D103&cat=23 This is actually a very good suggestion...its good stuff...you can also buy a product known in the vinyl sign making industry as "Transfer tape"...sometimes called R-tape....its the paper backing used to apply decals....its fairly flexable and can be seen thru although its not clear...they do make a clear transfer tape but its not near as flexible. Now.....i'm gonna give ya'll my ultra secret all time favorite DIY masking material on the cheap cheap....."GLAD Press'n Seal".......its available at your local grocery store or even your kitchen cabinet if your wife already uses the stuff.....you can peel it up and stick back down till you get it like you want.....it wraps around curves with ease, cuts like butter with an Xacto and its clear....Enjoy. Edited November 22, 2009 by 68KingFisher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68KingFisher Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 And just for the record, i've used Press-n-seal as masking with automotive urethanes and had no problems.......Yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Posted November 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Thanks for info guys. I'll have to try both the Transfer Tape (brother does vinyl signs, etc.) and the Glad Press'n Seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 And just for the record, i've used Press-n-seal as masking with automotive urethanes and had no problems.......Yet! Hey KF thanks for that, hope you never run out of bullets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1wcu Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 That is great! Thank you for that! You all make this too easy for us beginners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1wcu Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 That is great! Thank you for that! You all make this too easy for us beginners. update: don't use press n seal on createx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68KingFisher Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 update: don't use press n seal on createx! Why....What happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shade_skyhi Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 kingfisher, just a note to say hi did you get my christmas message? anywho hello and have a great day........al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68KingFisher Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 kingfisher, just a note to say hi did you get my christmas message? anywho hello and have a great day........al I must have missed it.....PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom in Sweetwater Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 I haven't used this on baits yet, but back in my commercial illustration days we used to use stuff called liquid friskit. You paint it on and then rub it off when you are through. I would have to do some research, but I have heard of some stuff like that that can be painted on and then cut and removed in sections as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 Why....What happened? KF, it sounds like a failure to adequately heat-set to me. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68KingFisher Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 I haven't used this on baits yet, but back in my commercial illustration days we used to use stuff called liquid friskit. You paint it on and then rub it off when you are through. I would have to do some research, but I have heard of some stuff like that that can be painted on and then cut and removed in sections as needed. I use a fair amount of liquid masking on my helmet and bike jobs, and it works great when using with urethane. I might be somewhat reserved about using it over Createx since most liquid masks i've run across were water based, and you'd run a risk of it bonding with the Createx and pulling it off along with the masking material......I haven't tried it, but thats what I see happening. It might be worth trying just to see.....heck even using plain old rubber cement as a mask might work for certain applications....i've used it in a pinch, just not with waterbase paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1wcu Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) KF, it sounds like a failure to adequately heat-set to me. Dean How would I know if I have 'adequately' heat-set the paint? Please let me know. All I do is blow hot air from a hair dryer on it until it looks and feels dry. Is that not long enough? Let me know what I can do different and I will try the press-n-seal again and post results. I am just learning and have little experience to offer but am hoping to learn more and more that I can share with all of you that have helped me learn everything I know. Luke KingFisher, It did peal the paint up. I never got to paint over the stencil, I was still trying to align it. Edited January 31, 2010 by luke1wcu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) How would I know if I have 'adequately' heat-set the paint? Please let me know. All I do is blow hot air from a hair dryer on it until it looks and feels dry. Is that not long enough? Let me know what I can do different and I will try the press-n-seal again and post results. I am just learning and have little experience to offer but am hoping to learn more and more that I can share with all of you that have helped me learn everything I know. Luke KingFisher, It did peal the paint up. I never got to paint over the stencil, I was still trying to align it. Luke, that was my best guess as to why you didn't achieve adequate adhesion. I would very much like to give you an exact answer as to when enough hair dryer is enough; however it is not an exact science. I will tell you this though, I really put the heat to mine, to the point that I can actually see a bit of steam leaving the bait. A light touch on the paint helps also; if you're applying it really thick, naturally it will take longer. If you're applying several coats of colors it will serve you well to heat set between colors, and naturally anytime you're applying scale netting or masking material to the paint. When removing these materials go slowly and peel backwards as opposed to pulling upward. I always heatset while my netting is in place. That being said, your lack of adhesion could also be caused by a primer coat that isn't fully compatible with Createx. While I don't use an adhesion promotor, I have no problems painting, and then thoroughly heat setting Createx Opaque White over an epoxy seal coat which I prep by scuffing, and then scrubbing with soap and water. This is just what works for me... Good luck, Dean Edited February 2, 2010 by Lure--Prof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1wcu Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thanks Dean! That gives me a lot to go off of. I will try some of these things soon and post results. One such being; not pealing the masking off in an upward direction. That very well may have been my mistake. Right now, my painting has been stalled due to >50 degree temps in the garage. A space heater is just not cost efficient for me as this weather is short lived in NC. I will experiment and post results asap. Thanks again everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Posted February 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 I experienced the same problem with the press n seal as did luke1wcu. When I peeled the press n seal off it took some of the paint with it. It didn't take paint from the area that the piece of press n seal was covering ... just a section. As far as I could tell the paint was dry. I heat seat between each color w/ a hair dryer. Will have to try it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassassasin88 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 I'm gonna clear coat the bait with a spray can, and then try the press and seal. Has anyone ever tried using foil for masking? It just might be simple enough to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fivefishwish Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 ive never used either one of these before but from the description of the "stretch mask" it sounds like it is exactly what ur looking for kris. when im in need of masking film i believe this is the one ill try. hope this helps. http://www.plazaart.com/products.php?page=7725 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fivefishwish Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 sorry, found it cheaper here: http://www.misterart.com/g8755/Iwata-Stretch-Mask-Friskfilm.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
