Scuff And/or Strip Brand Baits (re Paint)

[MikePaintsBaits]

I've ever done this , thinking of re-painting some DT 10"s , can I just scuff then up? or do I have to strip

them bare?

What type sand paper ? Do I wet sand?

What type stripper ?

Thanks For All Your Help

[BobP]

You don't want to strip a wood bait down to bare wood anywhere. The wood underneath the finish is much softer and it is almost impossible to sand the rest of the finish off and leave exposed wood areas intact. A DT-10 has decent buoyancy so I would sand it moderately with 400 grit paper to remove the clearcoat. Sanding will also enhance paint adhesion. Spray a white acrylic color basecoat (my fave is Polytranspar Superhide White) and then color. The right sandpaper makes a big difference. IMO Norton 3X is the best and is sold at Home Depot. I've done 4-5 baits with one 1"x3" piece. Wet sanding is mostly used to prevent clogging while sanding. Norton won't clog unless you're sanding epoxy. Guys who try chemical strippers on crankbaits usually regret it - it will often melt plastic, clouds clear plastic lips, and always makes a big mess.

Edited November 27, 2009 by BobP

[MikePaintsBaits]

Hey Bob , Big Thanks

[Frank]

Well if there is no chips or other defect in the bait scuffing by far is the way of choice because it will get in all the depression and not lose your detail. Sanding can dull some detail if there is some. 3M has some pads that are designed for this. The red one is to agressive. The gray one is my choice. The gold one is another good choice. The white one is to fine but if you use a sanding paste it will work. All of these can be found at an Auto body paint store. Wet is also the only way to go it will let the pads work better and maybe a drop or two of dish soap in the water. Even if you sand it is a good idea to scuff after just to make sure you got all the spots.