Weedless Football Head Jig Mold Problem

[SCBoatGuy]

Hi

I have a do it molds weedless football head jig mold - Weedless Football Jig FBW-4-AF http://www.do-itmolds.com/prodmolds.aspx?c=28

Im guessing that many of you may be familiar with this mold?

I also have a poison taill jig mold from do it too.. it is Poison Tail Jig PTJ-3-AFS http://www.do-itmolds.com/prodmolds.aspx?c=23

The poison tail has base pins so that I can pour my head and still have a hole for my weedguard. The football jig one doesnt have this... it seems my only option with it is to pour my heads with the weedguard in the mold but then I can heat up more than one head at a time (in my toaster oven) to powder paint coat them.

What other options do I have with the football head jig mold other than to 1. pour them with the weedguard in the mold and then use a heat shield and heat up only one head at a time to be powder coated... or 2. leave the weedguard out then drill a hole for the weedguard once I have them poured (did this and its very time consuming) or 3. pour them with the weedguard in it and use a different process to paint the heads?

What other options do I have?

[cadman]

First of all I don't paint any jigs with weedguards in them. I find it very difficult to get good paint coverage with weedguards in them and also my weedguards seem to curl from baking (curing) them in the toaster oven. But this is just me, there may be others on this site that have better luck doing this. With that said, this is what I do. On the mold you mentioned, I put in a #46(.081) or a #45(.082) drill bit shank first, in the space where the weedguard is supposed to go up to the hook. What this does is when you pour your jig the lead will fill everything in the cavity except where the drill bit is. So when you take the jig out you will have a jig with the drill bit in, then take the drill bit out of the jig and you will have your weed guard hole. If you want to use a bigger weedguard, you already have a pilot hole for a starter so just drill it out. If not you can just paint your jig and bake and then glue the weedguard in after baking. I hope this answers your question.

[smalljaw]

I'll help a bit here, if your drill bits aren't indexed and if decimal equivilants don't work either, try the shank of a 5/64" drill bit, I do it for the 1/8oz poison tail. That kind of bit you can go to just about any hardware store and pick one up on the cheap.

[Jig Man]

For those smaller ones I use 12g romex electrical wiring. I strip it and cut it to lenght. Endless amounts can be made for a few bucks.

[smalljaw]

Jigman, I have 2 questions for you, the first one is where do you get that wire? The second is how does it come out of the jig and is it the correct size, by that I mean does the weedguard fit in the hole without falling out or do you have to thin the guard out before putting it in? That looks like it would be a great alternative to the drill bit shank!

[SCBoatGuy]

I tried something similiar with finishin nails... but the darn nails slid out once i stood the mold on end to pour... perhaps the bit will fit more snug

[Jig Man]

Jigman, I have 2 questions for you, the first one is where do you get that wire? The second is how does it come out of the jig and is it the correct size, by that I mean does the weedguard fit in the hole without falling out or do you have to thin the guard out before putting it in? That looks like it would be a great alternative to the drill bit shank!

Romex is house wiring. You can get it at any hdw or home supply store. I tried several different sizes and 12g works in my mold. You might need 10 or 14 depending on how your mold is made.

I pull it out before I paint the jig heads so I have to do a bit of drilling after the paint cures. I tried curing before pulling it out and it took a bunch of paint off the heads. I really don't remember if the fg will go in as it has been a few years since I came up with this method. I use it in 2 or 3 of my molds.

[smalljaw]

Thanks for the info jigman!!!

[sro114]

You can buy the base pins for real cheap. Here is a link to them on Barlow's. They are like a 1.50 a ten pack.

http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID=1522&CATID=59

[cadman]

You can buy the base pins for real cheap. Here is a link to them on Barlow's. They are like a 1.50 a ten pack.

http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID=1522&CATID=59

These base hole pins are not for this mold. They will not work unless you modify the mold.

[Tony Maxwell]

I bought a piece of steel rod the same diameter as the base pins, cut it into short lengths, and place it in the mold prior to pouring the heads. I usually have to use duct tape to line the slot where the rod lays in the mold so that the rod doesn't fall out while I'm holding the mold just prior to pouring. Good luck.

Tony