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Second Color (head) - Clean Line

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I am trying to paint a second color on my shad dart heads. I am using powder paint & it really does a sloppy job. My line where the colors meet are not clean. I've tried a small - shallow container with about an 1/8 inch of paint & it still comes out messy.

I thought about using kapton tape - but that is way too time consuming...

Now I'm thinking a liquid paint dip would be better with a final over coat / hardener.

Anybody have input, advise or experience to help ?

Mark

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Mark,

I guess the questions comes down to this. Do you want one color to blend(fade) into another color or do you want a crisp line separating 2 colors. If you want a fade then that is do-able (don't know if that's a word) with powder paint . If you want a crisp clean line separating 2 colors, then I have yet to see that be done with powder paint. You have to understand that powder paint needs heat for it to stick to anything. That heat has to be hot enough to hold paint, however it will be too hot to hold tape so that won't work. If you want a clean 2 color separation, my suggestion would be to do the whole jig in powder paint, cure the jig and come back tape what you don't want painted and air brush the rest on. Now you will have to clear coat because if you use water based airbrush paint it will come off. Your other choice is forget powder painting and air brush everything and then mask off as above. Finally you can powder paint the whole jig and then dip half of it in the other color. As far as how perfect it will be, well depends on how perfect you want it. I personally like to fade my paint it looks more natural, then clean crisp cut lines. But naturally this is your choice. I'm sure other will join in here to give you more ideas.................Good Luck

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Mark,

I guess the questions comes down to this. Do you want one color to blend(fade) into another color or do you want a crisp line separating 2 colors. If you want a fade then that is do-able (don't know if that's a word) with powder paint . If you want a crisp clean line separating 2 colors, then I have yet to see that be done with powder paint. You have to understand that powder paint needs heat for it to stick to anything. That heat has to be hot enough to hold paint, however it will be too hot to hold tape so that won't work. If you want a clean 2 color separation, my suggestion would be to do the whole jig in powder paint, cure the jig and come back tape what you don't want painted and air brush the rest on. Now you will have to clear coat because if you use water based airbrush paint it will come off. Your other choice is forget powder painting and air brush everything and then mask off as above. Finally you can powder paint the whole jig and then dip half of it in the other color. As far as how perfect it will be, well depends on how perfect you want it. I personally like to fade my paint it looks more natural, then clean crisp cut lines. But naturally this is your choice. I'm sure other will join in here to give you more ideas.................Good Luck

Thank you for helping ! I'm not trying to fade this time. What type of liquid paint would you suggest to put on top of the cured powder paint? I like the paint work on this site with fading & other more advanced painting - I'm thinking of moving into that. Obviously, this opens all kinds of other questions & I will not go there...yet.

Will this overcoat seal 3d eyes in place ? or will the chemical eat the eye?

Mark

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Mark,

Many guys use Createx, a water based paint with an airbrush. The colors are endless and you can get some beautiful colored jigs. The paint has to be heat set. I prefer to use Createx over a powder painted base coat jig. It will give the Createx something to grip to. If you want to paint over a raw jig, then you will have to put a base coat on or maybe a primer, probably white and then paint from there. Once you are all done painting, you must then clear coat. Yes the clear coat will seal in your eyes. To seal your eyes and jig, you can use E-tex (Envirotex lite) or D2T (Devcon 2 Ton)

One final suggestion. You can go to a lacquer paint to use in an airbrush, but you will have to evacuate the fumes safely as they are hazardous to breathe.

Edited by cadman
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Mark,

Many guys use Createx, a water based paint with an airbrush. The colors are endless and you can get some beautiful colored jigs. The paint has to be heat set. I prefer to use Createx over a powder painted base coat jig. It will give the Createx something to grip to. If you want to paint over a raw jig, then you will have to put a base coat on or maybe a primer, probably white and then paint from there. Once you are all done painting, you must then clear coat. Yes the clear coat will seal in your eyes. To seal your eyes and jig, you can use E-tex (Envirotex lite) or D2T (Devcon 2 Ton)

One final suggestion. You can go to a lacquer paint to use in an airbrush, but you will have to evacuate the fumes safely as they are hazardous to breathe.

Where is a good place to buy Createx, E-tex & D2T ? Can I start by dipping?

I may do the airbrush thing in the future.

Is this different than what Cabela's sells?

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Where is a good place to buy Createx, E-tex & D2T ? Can I start by dipping?

I may do the airbrush thing in the future.

Is this different than what Cabela's sells?

I don't believe you can brush on Createx, it is made only for airbrush applications. If you want a brush on paint go to Walmart and get some model paint enamel. As far as E-tex you can get that at Michael's craft store. Devcon 2 ton at a hardware store or on-line.

I don't know of a paint you can dip and then let it dry without dripping all over the place.

If you want you can use vinyl paint. I am not an expert at it and I don't use it because it gives me bad headaches. I don't know what Cabela's sells.

Maybe others will chime in and give you some other advice.

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I don't believe you can brush on Createx, it is made only for airbrush applications. If you want a brush on paint go to Walmart and get some model paint enamel. As far as E-tex you can get that at Michael's craft store. Devcon 2 ton at a hardware store or on-line.

I don't know of a paint you can dip and then let it dry without dripping all over the place.

If you want you can use vinyl paint. I am not an expert at it and I don't use it because it gives me bad headaches. I don't know what Cabela's sells.

Maybe others will chime in and give you some other advice.

It seems I am a bit confused... I've been looking at what the retailers are selling for jig painting... & you're saying I can use model paint with the hard coat on top. That seems like something to try. I guess as far as duability - it's all the same dependant on the hardener used.

I will experiment - thanks again for helping.

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Cadman has given some good advice.

For a good clean even line with out a lot of work you need to dip the last coat ... after a little drying time you need to "Screet" it off as there will be a small drop .. depending on the type paint and the thickness.

Best done by racking (I used a strip about 12 to l5 inches with holes drilled about 3/8 in apart).

A dip pan about 2" deep 1 inch wide and just longer that the rack strip. Many ways to "Rack" the strip.

Lacquer, Vinyl and etc. I like the idea of having a base coat of powder paint (did not have it back in the old days) and I used lacquer, then later on 2 part epoxy marine paint ... Note a "V" Dip pan is the best to get all the "Goody" out of your paint (Less waste)

My 2 cents ... Hope I have helped

JSC

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Cadman, I've started powder coating some jigs to get a little proficient at it, nothing like your examples of course and I mean that as a compliment by the way. Anyway, I'venoticed a couple of things, first off, I cure the head in the oven after coating and a dunk in the water bath to cool it some so I can remove the filler pin and have the hole remain a truer 1/8th inch diameter opening for a FG30 weedguard. I was then gluing in the weedguard using super glue gel and trying to paint on a two-part epoxy finish but no matter which way I try to hang them to dry, they seem to do one of two things; get into the weedguard which wicks the clear up the stems or collecting on the bottom edge of the bait if hung by the weedguard? Any suggestions, what clear coat are you using and, as a last comment, I went to the Createx website and noticed they have several different types of paint listed, which series do you recommend and what's your favorite colors. Thanking you in advance.

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Cadman, I've started powder coating some jigs to get a little proficient at it, nothing like your examples of course and I mean that as a compliment by the way. Anyway, I'venoticed a couple of things, first off, I cure the head in the oven after coating and a dunk in the water bath to cool it some so I can remove the filler pin and have the hole remain a truer 1/8th inch diameter opening for a FG30 weedguard. I was then gluing in the weedguard using super glue gel and trying to paint on a two-part epoxy finish but no matter which way I try to hang them to dry, they seem to do one of two things; get into the weedguard which wicks the clear up the stems or collecting on the bottom edge of the bait if hung by the weedguard? Any suggestions, what clear coat are you using and, as a last comment, I went to the Createx website and noticed they have several different types of paint listed, which series do you recommend and what's your favorite colors. Thanking you in advance.

I will PM you so I don't hijack this thread.

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