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Trojanfisherman

How Can I Make This?

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Hey everyone,

I'm trying to make a Weedless version of the Shad head. I tried drilling out a hole after pouring the heads, but its just makes a mess and the weed guard just doesn't seem to work right. I checked with a CNC shop near me and they want $350 to make a custom Do-it mold for me, which is just too much. Can anyone help me figure it out?

Here's what I'm talking about. The recessed eye to accommodate the 3D eye is not necessary, but a plus if possible. Thanks!

HHSSH.jpg

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Hey everyone,

I'm trying to make a Weedless version of the Shad head. I tried drilling out a hole after pouring the heads, but its just makes a mess and the weed guard just doesn't seem to work right. I checked with a CNC shop near me and they want $350 to make a custom Do-it mold for me, which is just too much. Can anyone help me figure it out?

Here's what I'm talking about. The recessed eye to accommodate the 3D eye is not necessary, but a plus if possible. Thanks!

HHSSH.jpg

Drilling out a slot for the wire weed guard is possible but extremely tricky.If both sides of the mold don't line up perfectly,the lead will flash all over the place. Spend the $ for the CNC custom mold and get recessed eyes.

BTW- how many cavities were they going to put in the mold for $350.00 ?

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Thanks for the input.

Smallmouthaholic, the quote for the mold was for a 3 cavity mold 3/4, 1, and 1.5 oz Style 9 Shad Head. It seemed a bit too pricey, but I could be wrong.

I do quite a bit of quoting for my company. We have 10 CNC machines in the facility I work out of. We're in the wood industry so its a bit different. But we bill out CNC time at $80/hour. We also charge a $150 set up fee.

Given they need to do prints, write a program, set up a machine, and run for a while...for ONE mold. $350 seems very reasonable.

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If I had a facility near me that would do a custom 3 cavity mold for $350 I'd be there all the time, as Mattman has mentioned, most shops charge by the hour on top of a set up fee, do yourself a favor and get the machine work done and you'll be making a quality product, well worth the investment.

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What diameter and what material of weed guard are you wanting?

If you want to mark both halves of the mold, get a small dia. wire like 0.030 or 0.040.

Postion the wire in mold they way you want the weed guard to lay, probably ought to glue the wire in place. Carefully close the mold and squeeze tight enough to mark the aluminum. Open the mold and you should be able to see the marks on both sides enough to use your dremel. The most critical area to minimize flash, is where it goes into the shad head cavity.

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It's easy with a few tricks... Lay your weedgaurd on the mold where you want it on one half of the mold. With a ruler draw a slot with a sharpie. Then carve away with the dremel. Lay a piece of SS spinnerbait wire/similar in the slot and slam the mold closed. This transfers the exact location on the opposite side.... Carve away at that side... Then real close to the head in the mold, drill a hole in the slot on both sides and fill with http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Copper_Maximum_Temperature_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm over full on both halves... After it dries, Cut off extra with a razor blade. Now you can pour your bait and get no flash and works like a charm... Been modifying molds for 20+ years and have found some tricks that really work good. :)

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Use a file to mark where u want the weedgaurd on one half of the mold.

Use an 1/8 inch drillbit layed flat in this slot and get someone to hold the mold closed for you with light pressure. Start drilling very slowly and get them to increase the pressure as u get a better grove and speed up the drill. Havent tried the process with one but i bet a rotozip bit would be good.

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