BasserJim Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 anyone done a tutorial on painting a reel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 I painted one and JMHO, it wasn't worth the time and trouble because it's impossible to find coatings that will last anything like the finishes on factory reels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clamboni Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 I painted one and JMHO, it wasn't worth the time and trouble because it's impossible to find coatings that will last anything like the finishes on factory reels. I somewhat disagree. Automotive clears hold up just as well as most factory jobs.......And you'd be surprised at what people will pay you if you can do a good job. It does take a lot of time though. I've done quite a few and it's not hard, but masking can be a pain.....you need to make sure you don't get any paint whatsoever in most of the areas that you don't see when the reel's assembled or parts wont' fit back together well. You can end up with spools rubbing, bearings not going into their spots, and the frame and plates not fitting right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL Rods Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Well I am somewhere in between the two prior answers. I would HIGHLY recommend you use an automotive air brush paint that is solvent based, and make sure its thoroughly dry, before clearing and then use an automotive clear coat and make sure you do not apply it to heavily. You still need to follow the usual tack coat and then your wet coat, but make sure not too heavy and give it at least 3 days to fully cure before you reassemble and mount the reel. Regardless the paint may or may not scratch off of the foot especially if the reel seat on the rod is not of the cushioned variety. I have done a few with Createx and Auto Air and they hold up OK, but the HOK or Kustom will hold up better. I would HIGHLY recommend you hand sand your parts where ever there is a seam to remove the original paint and to give your paint room for the parts to fit together. Make sure you thoroughly wet sand all surfaces to be painted, and clean them well. Tape off everywhere the spool will be as the tolerances for most spools is very close to the frame. And a coat of paint plus clear top coats can close those gaps in a heartbeat. I tape it off, exacto around it and check it again. So if you think disassembly, cleaning, sanding, cleaning, taping, painting, clearing, allowing multiple days for curing, and reassembly sounds fun, then do it. Otherwise BobP is right. Also unless you treat the whole thing just like an auto repair, the underlying scratches will show. So you either sand it all smooth or filler and sand it all smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muskydan666 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Hi!i just painted mine 2 weeks ago!It's a lot of work but not that bad!!!I clear coated it with automotive clear and it's solid!No worry there!!There's a pic of the baitcast I paint.Cheers.Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
