kyratchethead Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 (edited) I just found out that Do It has a Lure Body Mold for making inline spinner bodies with. It has five cavities - 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 oz. Anyone have one of these or used one before? It looks like the bodies would Powder Paint up kinda' nice! Edited February 1, 2010 by kyratchethead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Yes, I have one of these and they paint up fine with no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBlaze Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 I just found out that Do It has a Lure Body Mold for making inline spinner bodies with. It has five cavities - 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 oz. Anyone have one of these or used one before? It looks like the bodies would Powder Paint up kinda' nice! I have one and as Cadman says, it powder coats well. It is probably one of the most useful molds that I own. I use it with some modification to make weighted hooks for casting flukes and other plastics. I make my own worm weights (similiar to the MoJo but a little longer and skinnier), ballast for crankbaits. It is a mold of many uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cz75b Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 I have one and it is very cool if you go through a lot of in-line spinners and I've powder painted the bodies too, take some technique to keep the center hole open but the results are great and better/tougher than anything you can buy...I've also used the same pull pins on a banana jig mold and used that shape for in-line spinners too, made four tonight and can't wait to test them which will have to wait until at least April here in central Minnesota.... spray mold release on the mold and pins and pull the pins ASAP when the metal solidifies as it seems to get a little tougher once they are totally cooled down painting is done with a toaster over and wires hanging the bodies from the rack, after the first coat, I try and turn the wire to break the seal so when I bake for the second time to cure the powder paint I found it was tough to release the wire w/o chipping the paint around the hole bend the wire at the bottom just enough to keep it from sliding off but keep that tag end away from the lure body as if it gets encased in dripping powder paint, it will be tougher to break free and you will know exactly what I mean when you let it happen...use the biggest wire you can feed through the body to keep the hole intact at full diameter smallmouth on the Mississippi love the chartreuese with silver blades and northern pike the same in the bigger sizes...and because tehy are cheap, you are not afraid to cast into junk where the fish are..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyratchethead Posted February 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks for the feedback fellers! I saw one of these up for auction on FleaBay but it doesn't come with the wire inserts to make the body cavities with. So, I'll wait to order a new one when I can save enough pennies up! Thanks again guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelly Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 I have this mold to and use it for more that one thing as well. cz75b try to use tooth picks in the holes when you paint them you can glob the paint and drip and make a mess and still have open eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crawdaddy Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 The lure body mold is one of the most versatile molds made. I use the lead body in place of split shot sinkers because they are very snagless. I also make swimbait hooks, drop shot weights, slip float weights, and internal weights for soft plastic tube baits with this mold. You can make great walking sinkers for walleye rigs by bending an eye in one end of the wire then form the lead body into a banana shape.When pouring drop shot wieghts and walking sinkers make sure to bend the end of the wire into an "L" shape and place the wire about half way into the mold cavity so the lead cannot slide off the wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 I just got one of these as I have always loved in-line spinners. They seem to be a very under used lure and I think I do well with thm as most fishermen don't present them. It says to use the S-040 wires and they are sold in a pack of 100. They gave 5 with the lure, why would I need 100 pull pins, would they burn up that fast? Do they get lost easy? Thanks for any help, and Merry Christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyGrub Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 I picked up one of the Slip Jig molds, and was going to try some of those with inline spinners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 (edited) I just got one of these as I have always loved in-line spinners. They seem to be a very under used lure and I think I do well with thm as most fishermen don't present them. It says to use the S-040 wires and they are sold in a pack of 100. They gave 5 with the lure, why would I need 100 pull pins, would they burn up that fast? Do they get lost easy? Thanks for any help, and Merry Christmas. Archery Rob, I have this mold and you will not burn up the metal pull pins. The only thing that could happen is if you lose the pull pins and/ or bend them where they wouldn't fit in the mold. Other than that 5 of the pull pins should be more than enough. If you lose them you can always get .040 rod and make some yourself. You do not have to buy special ones. I picked up one of the Slip Jig molds, and was going to try some of those with inline spinners. Fuzzy, I have used this mold extensively, and I found some things that may help you. #1 definitely use mold release, as it is hard to get full pours without it. #2 Pour only one cavity at a time. I tried to pour three cavities on one side of the mold and they poured beautifully, however when you do this it is almost impossible to pull the pull pin out. I thought I would save time as once I used the mold release every cavity always poured flawlessly. But like I mentioned it is hard to pull the pull pin from one pour let alone three. Too much friction between the steel pull rod and the ppoured lead. Edited December 25, 2011 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 ... like I mentioned it is hard to pull the pull pin from one pour let alone three. Too much friction between the steel pull rod and the ppoured lead. Did you try release on the pull pins, or does it come off too easily? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 Yes I tried release on the pull pins. The 1st couple of pulls works effortlessly. But like you said it comes off after that. Because of the friction of the lead on the pull pins. I have also tried different lead composites mixing tin with soft lead. Sometimes it worked better than others. I did find that once you get the mold and the pins hot, the easiest way the pins free themselves is to pull immediately after you fill the cavity, when the lead and pull pin is still hot. I am working on some other materials for pull pins which may be easier to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 On egg sinkers I have used a grease cartridge where I just insert the rod in the grease and pull it out an then put in the mold and pour. If the rod is hot, not much grease gets on but enough to make it pull easy. If you get too much grease on the rod it will leave a void in the lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyGrub Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 Thanks for the heads up on this mold. This is my first pull-pin type mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 One thing that works good with pull pins ... Use a bar of soap .. After each pour " pull" the pin across the bar of soap (do it in the same place to make a groove in it) .. needs to be done after each pour .. works good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 Dlaery and JSC, On using the grease or the soap, what if any effect does it have on powder painting them after the fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 Good point, never painted any egg sinkers to see. I have painted the lure bodies but never used the grease on those when making them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBlaze Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 I make a lot of the slip sinkers with this mold. I lay my pull pins in a large lid like off of a quart size mayonaise jar and lightly spray them with a teflon lubricant which I get at Lowes Home Center. It works very well for a couple of pours And I have to lay them back in the lid and shake it. It usually has enough of the lubricant in it to lightly coat them a couple of more times before I have to use the spray again. There is some smoke that comes of this stuff when the molten lead contacts the pen. Also be very cautious about getting a heavy coat of the lube on the pins. Once I had the smoke or the resulting gas blow back up through the pouring nozzel of my lead pot and quite a few lead spatter came out of the pot. Luckily, none of them landed on me but is was a little scary. I did powder paint some of these sinkers and it adhered very well. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Dlaery and JSC, On using the grease or the soap, what if any effect does it have on powder painting them after the fact. I have never painted any (Sinkers) poured this way but it appears to be no noticable residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Thanks for the info guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painter1 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 (edited) Can anyone provide the ideal sizes in the 1/8 through 3/8 for the wire, spinner blade and hook? I would like to try making a few inline spinners. Thank you Edited December 27, 2011 by Painter1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyGrub Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Can anyone provide the ideal sizes in the 1/8 through 3/8 for the wire, spinner blade and hook? I would like to try making a few inline spinners. Thank you Here is a good starting point: http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/content/make_fishing_lures.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Here is a good starting point: http://www.jannsnetc...shing_lures.htm Wow very informative. Learn something new all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatman Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Had a guy who made me some and didn't use the pull pins, just used straight wire and painted them and formed them right from that. Your call but it beats having to worry about the hole getting full of paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Any tips on painting some of these and coating with epoxy? The hole is a little too small for my normal paper clip hangers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
