txlive Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 I've got a Falcon Cara T7 with the factory spit grip. My problem is, the rear end of the cork handle has an edge with a sharp angle where it tapers to the blank. They all have this might I add. If I'm flipping it's fine, but when I use any other casting motion it rubs the "heel" of my palm. At the end of the day it feels like I've sanded my hand down, eventhough the cork's surface is smooth. Any suggestions on sanding the edge? I don't have a lathe, nor do I turn my own handles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattman Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 While I've not tried to sand by hand...a lot of guys turn their full grips into split grips and do that sanding by hand. I'd use sandpaper double back taped to blocks of some sort. I have various sized blocks that I use for sandpaper backers. You can use dimensional lumber, MDF, acrylic. I'd start out with 80 grit paper to get close to the shape you want. 120 grit to smooth up and final shape. 180 grit to start finishing off your grip. 220 grit will start to turn your grit marks invisible. 320 probably isn't necesary but shouldn't leave any sanding marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txlive Posted February 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 Thanks. Kind of figured that, but wanted to make sure I wasn't in the dark of a preferred method of doing this. After learning rod-building, ammo reloading, gunsmithing, guitars, etc., I have found that there are always tricks that you don't find in the corrections manuals of your tools! While I've not tried to sand by hand...a lot of guys turn their full grips into split grips and do that sanding by hand. I'd use sandpaper double back taped to blocks of some sort. I have various sized blocks that I use for sandpaper backers. You can use dimensional lumber, MDF, acrylic. I'd start out with 80 grit paper to get close to the shape you want. 120 grit to smooth up and final shape. 180 grit to start finishing off your grip. 220 grit will start to turn your grit marks invisible. 320 probably isn't necesary but shouldn't leave any sanding marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FishingBuds Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Once again proof you can count on Matt who comes to the rescue He's correct tx, I have done two hand sands and wish not to do anymore, its fatiguing but it can be done, just watch taken too much off at a time, that's what usually happens, its a slow process so you try and think you can help it go faster and take out bigger scrapes, it only ends up worse. just take it slow and BE the cork handle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT hunter Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Once again proof you can count on Matt who comes to the rescue He's correct tx, I have done two hand sands and wish not to do anymore, its fatiguing but it can be done, just watch taken too much off at a time, that's what usually happens, its a slow process so you try and think you can help it go faster and take out bigger scrapes, it only ends up worse. just take it slow and BE the cork handle Make sure you tape up the blank ahead of your intended sanding area with masking tape so that you don't scuff up your blank. I learned that one the hard way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...