catfish85 Posted February 14, 2004 Report Share Posted February 14, 2004 my wife has a fry daddy that she said i can use, never used them before with soft plastics, how is it done, can anyone help me with a few pointers, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted February 14, 2004 Report Share Posted February 14, 2004 Hi, Problem with a frydaddy is that it dont have an adjustable thermostat. you can try, but I think you'll want one with an adjustable thermostat. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavu Posted February 14, 2004 Report Share Posted February 14, 2004 The Presto Kitchen Kettle multi-cooker/steamer sold at Wal-Mart for about $20.00 has an adjustible thermostat (from warm, below 200 degrees, to 400 degrees). I have used one of these to melt wax for candle making and have plans for making one to melt plastic. I modified the one I am using for wax with a gate valve so I could turn the flow on and off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted February 14, 2004 Report Share Posted February 14, 2004 Thats the same cooker I have I drilled mine in the center for a rod valve like whats on the lee pots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavu Posted February 14, 2004 Report Share Posted February 14, 2004 Actualy, thats how I had planned to do the new pot for plastics. How is yours working for poring plastics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted February 15, 2004 Report Share Posted February 15, 2004 Not finished with mine yet, I took the feet off & mounted the pot up so I could get my molds under em. Ive been holding out trying to make an auto stirrer for it, but with the pull rod in the center, makes it rough. The heating element runs around the bottom edge, so thats the only place I could put it. I'll keep ya posted on new progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercury Posted February 15, 2004 Report Share Posted February 15, 2004 oh no Red's been brain storming again...... :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted February 15, 2004 Report Share Posted February 15, 2004 Hey Capn Mike, if you try that pot pictured above, lemme know how the ball valve on that thing works with your plastic, if it works good, I'll throw one on mine too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavu Posted February 15, 2004 Report Share Posted February 15, 2004 I'll clean all the wax out of the pot and throw a bunch of scrap worms in and see how it pours out. If they work OK, new plastosol should work even better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavu Posted February 16, 2004 Report Share Posted February 16, 2004 don't think this fry pot is going to work for re-using plastic. I have heated a bunch of baits up to about 325 degree (determined by a candy thermometer) and they are nowhere close to flowing thru the gate valve. Lots of smell too. Don't have the nerve to try heating lots of liquid plastosol for a test, but that might work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted February 16, 2004 Report Share Posted February 16, 2004 The smell could be from the scents in the remelts, Woodsac mentioned to me in an earlier post that a valve might not work. guess its true. I'm using a 1/4" rod with the end tapered. I drilled a hole using a countersinking bit to match the taper of the rod. My only worry is that the underside of the pot is flat, unlike the concave bottom of a lee pot. I'm wondering of the plastic will want to run underneath the pot, like water does on a flat surface. The aluminum pot is malleable enough to possibly shape into a slightly concave surface, but I dont wanna damage the elements. hmmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidlizard Posted February 18, 2004 Report Share Posted February 18, 2004 Gator, Maybe you can add a nipple to the bottom like a lee pot...... I remember talking about this along time ago... Please keep me posted on your results.... I always knew you would figure it out..... Let me get this straight... The pouring hole is in the center of the pot to avoid the heating element??? I think I may have an idea for your automatic stirring but not sure if its possible... Think about stirring around the rod..... dang this is going to be too hard to put into words.... Im gonna need to make a picture somehow...Ill get back to ya...... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hwy-Apostle Posted August 25, 2004 Report Share Posted August 25, 2004 Any updates on this? I'm just getting started and thought this might be the way to go. One ? though, I figured I would make a base amount of plastic in the pot (mabe half to 3/4's full no color) then ladle it into small poring pots to keep worm, color, tent, glitter and cent on a Burner, then poor to my molds. So my ? is can I leave the plastic in the big pot when I'm done? Then reheat / remelt it for the next day when I poor again? Kinda like you do with lead I've always been told to leave the lead pot full as possible when done. so I was wondering if this is ok in a big pot like this? Any help or advice on this is appreciated. The main reson I ask is I am on call 24/7 and my have to drop and go. But don't want to waste the plastic. Guess I have to go introduce myself know LOL I've been reading everything I can on hear for the last 2-3 days. I'm out of work on work comp and think I found a new hobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckarren Posted September 7, 2004 Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 What if you put in a bigger valve and reduce it to a smaller size tip??? Just a thought Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted September 7, 2004 Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 How about for the ?bottom feed? using a 1?? X 3/8 piece of aluminum tubing ? flare out one end. Drill out the hole, on the bottom of the pot, a hair under 3/8 and press the tubing (flare inside the pot) into the bottom. Seal on the out side with high temp epoxy or RTV. Should work as long as the bottom of the pot is solid and not walled. Might be a pain to clean in between pours ? hmmmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubeman Posted September 11, 2004 Report Share Posted September 11, 2004 If you intend to use a ball valve, 1/2 to 3/4 i.d. is the minimum I would go and the valve has to be heated ( with a seperate thermostat ) or it will just clog up. I got a heated valve added to my last hot pot from Rite Hete and it was too small (3/8 ). If you were going to use a heated valve, I would seal the unit and pressurize it slightly as well. So far, pouring by cup has been easier and far more economical. Ask Scott at SR plastics what he is using ? I think he is using the sta-warm brand ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigmeister Posted October 7, 2004 Report Share Posted October 7, 2004 Hey Red/all , I was just thinking you could drill a hole out in your fryer for a short 1/2,5/8, or 3/4 inch brass bolt and either tap the hole in the fryer {if thick enough} or simply back it up with a nut . You could drill the center of the bolt out with the counter-sinking bit . to get a better seal between the tapered rod and and tapered seat you made in the bolt simply chuck the tapered rod in a drill press and use lapping compound for a precision fit The end of the bolt extending below the fryer would provide a nozzle so the plastic couldn't pool on the bottom of fryer..........Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
