Removing Paint From A Factory Bait To Make It Clear

[wtfooptimax200]

I tried doing a search on this, but couldn't find any information. I am looking to paint some transparent baits (e.g. ghost minnow and phantom craw colors). My only problem is getting the bait clear. Currently, my painting is limited to opaque baits, so I sand, prime, paint, and clear coat. Can I use solvent to remove the paint and make the bait clear or do I sand until all of the paint is removed? Any other helpful tips are also appreciated.

Thanks for any help!

[dlc51]

I tried doing a search on this, but couldn't find any information. I am looking to paint some transparent baits (e.g. ghost minnow and phantom craw colors). My only problem is getting the bait clear. Currently, my painting is limited to opaque baits, so I sand, prime, paint, and clear coat. Can I use solvent to remove the paint and make the bait clear or do I sand until all of the paint is removed? Any other helpful tips are also appreciated.

Thanks for any help!

[luke1wcu]

Not all baits a clear underneath the paint but most are. I usually start with 220 grit wet/dry to take off the paint. Once you are down to the plastic you can smooth it out with 400 grit wet/dry. Run it under water to wet the bait and you will see how clear it becomes. When it is dry, it will appear cloudy but when you wet it, you will see what it will look like once you clear coat it after painting. I sanded a Bomber Square A last week and it was "bone" color under the paint. I actually ended up just applying kill spots with a sharpie and leaving it at that.

I just finished my first ever two repaints yesterday. They are in in a ghost table rock shad pattern. I am really pleased with the finish the etex gave them. I'll post pictures in the gallery soon.

[mark poulson]

When I want to do a transparent finish on a plastic lure, I scrape as much of the old paint off as I can with the back of an exacto knife blade, because its faster, and then wet sand to get the rest of the paint off. Then I dip the lure into clean acetone, to remelt the plastic and get rid of any scratches. A quick dip only. Then I paint right over the plastic, with no primer. Both Createx and Wildlife Colors stick just fine to the cleaned plastic.

Edited February 23, 2010 by mark poulson

[VANNDALIZER]

When I want to do a transparent finish on a plastic lure, I scrape as much of the old paint off as I can with the back of an exacto knife blade, because its faster, and then wet sand to get the rest of the paint off. Then I dip the lure into clean acetone, to remelt the plastic and get rid of any scratches. A quick dip only. Then I paint right over the plastic, with no primer. Both Createx and Wildlife Colors stick just fine to the cleaned plastic.

Do a search on soda blasting

[RayburnGuy]

Did some looking on the 'net about your question and found the stuff at the link below. I personally have no first hand knowledge of it, but it seems that quite a few model builders use it when refinishing model cars and such. I went the mini-blaster route myself and use the medium grit media found at TCP Global. Use it when I have a lure with a lot of detail that would be damaged by hand sanding. Also checked into the E-Z Off oven cleaner and got mixed reviews. Some said it would not hurt the plastic and some said it would if left too long. Let us know what you end up doing and how it works for you.

RG

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof542143.htm

[Mcleod]

I have tried a few things, the best I have found is no frills caustic oven cleaner. I havent done many, however, when I started painting I stripped a couple of old jackall lures back using this technique. My process is, get a zip lock sandwich back and drop the lure in, blast it with the cleaner (give it a good amount cause the foam will collapse quickly leaving the caustic mix), seal the bag and leave it for a couple of days in a glass jar. After that pull the lure out and run the lure under water while rubbing your fingers over it. For mine the paint flaked off while doing this. For the scales and fine detail areas, I used an Exacto knife and run down the detail line to pull out the paint. I found it worked well leaving a perfectly clear bait and I couldnt find any signs of plastic degradation. A warning though, remember it is caustic so take the appropriate precautions and try it on some cheapo baits first. The soaking time may vary or it may work different for you. The last thing I wanted to do was ruin a couple of expensive baits or worse, someone elses.

Angus

[luke1wcu]

Did some looking on the 'net about your question and found the stuff at the link below. I personally have no first hand knowledge of it, but it seems that quite a few model builders use it when refinishing model cars and such. I went the mini-blaster route myself and use the medium grit media found at TCP Global. Use it when I have a lure with a lot of detail that would be damaged by hand sanding. Also checked into the E-Z Off oven cleaner and got mixed reviews. Some said it would not hurt the plastic and some said it would if left too long. Let us know what you end up doing and how it works for you.

RG

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof542143.htm

Rayburn,

I have been considering the mini blaster route. Can you tell me a little more about it? What brand do you use? Safety precautions? Amount of time it takes to strip a bait when blasting vs stripping? Maybe we should start a new thread to avoid hijacking this one. Thanks in advance.

[RayburnGuy]

Rayburn,

I have been considering the mini blaster route. Can you tell me a little more about it? What brand do you use? Safety precautions? Amount of time it takes to strip a bait when blasting vs stripping? Maybe we should start a new thread to avoid hijacking this one. Thanks in advance.

Luke,

Just sent you a PM. If anyone else is wanting info on the mini blaster let me know and I will start a new thread.

RG

[wtfooptimax200]

Luke,

Just sent you a PM. If anyone else is wanting info on the mini blaster let me know and I will start a new thread.

RG

I'm definitely interested in the mini blaster. It looks like the best option and I'd like to know more about it if you don't mind. What models do you suggest? What do I need to get started? Etc.....

Thanks again for the help.

[Cranky Fish]

Has anyone tried paint thinner? If that is too strong, what about dipping in mineral spirits.

[jigmeister]

I tried doing a search on this, but couldn't find any information. I am looking to paint some transparent baits (e.g. ghost minnow and phantom craw colors). My only problem is getting the bait clear. Currently, my painting is limited to opaque baits, so I sand, prime, paint, and clear coat. Can I use solvent to remove the paint and make the bait clear or do I sand until all of the paint is removed? Any other helpful tips are also appreciated.

Thanks for any help!

[BobP]

Cranky, the problem with solvents: mild ones like mineral spirits or naphtha take forever (if ever) to work; volatile ones like lacquer thinner, finger nail polish remover, or acetone dissolve plastic as quickly as they do paint. They also tend to make a big sticky mess and cloud clear lips. I haven't tried oven cleaner. I remove the finish from most plastic baits in 15 mins or so with the blade of a small Swiss Army knife and/or some 220 & 400 grit Norton 3X paper.

[chuck]

I'm definitely interested in the mini blaster. It looks like the best option and I'd like to know more about it if you don't mind. What models do you suggest? What do I need to get started? Etc.....

Thanks again for the help.

i would be interested also. in the mini blaster

[RayburnGuy]

Hey Chuck,

I started a new post with info on the mini blaster. It's in the same "hard baits" section your in now. You might have to scroll down or maybe go to the next page to find it as it was a couple days ago when I posted it. If you have any questions that's aren't answered by the info I posted just holler and will do my best to help.

RG