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Lee Melting Pot

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I'm actually wandering the same thing. I am getting really tired of using cast iron pots and cast iron ladels. Since its time for tax returns and I am looking at upgrading my soft plastic equipment and my lead equipment. I would like to know of a great lead melter with a bottom pouring spout.

Even if its not a Lee I would really like some information.

Thanx,

Korey

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I'm actually wandering the same thing. I am getting really tired of using cast iron pots and cast iron ladels. Since its time for tax returns and I am looking at upgrading my soft plastic equipment and my lead equipment. I would like to know of a great lead melter with a bottom pouring spout.

Even if its not a Lee I would really like some information.

Thanx,

Korey

that right Korey...TAX RETURN!!

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You are correct, it could definitely use more clearance. I do not have problems with the spinnerbaits, however I think there was a problem with the bigger buzz baits. I would have to check. Also I have the Ultra-Minnow spinnerbait and the Keel buzz bait molds and both of those I pour straight soft lead because of pouring issues. With that said I use a hot pot for those as it is easier to use.

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I had 2 RCBS pots and loved both of them (they both DRIP). I bought them when they were less than $200. I sold one very reluctantly.

When you say clearence, do you mean the distance between the pour spout and mold or the overall distance, pour spout to base?

I'm referring to the pour spout and the base. There is only 3-3/4" clearance. If I had at least an inch more, my spinnerbait and buzzbait mold with my wire form in them would fit in much more easier. The Lee pots don't have that. I am going to build an extension which will help solve my problem.

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I'm referring to the pour spout and the base. There is only 3-3/4" clearance. If I had at least an inch more, my spinnerbait and buzzbait mold with my wire form in them would fit in much more easier. The Lee pots don't have that. I am going to build an extension which will help solve my problem.

I knew a guy that turned the base around, this was on the older lee pots that had the rectangle back. Just take the 4 screws out and turn it around and put the screws back in. Then screw the base to your bentch and then you have lots of clearence. Then he would leave a coffee can on the floor for the drips. My RCBS has an adjustable arm, small rod, to rest the mold on while pouring. This only worked if your hooks are not sticking out from the bottom of the mold.

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I knew a guy that turned the base around, this was on the older lee pots that had the rectangle back. Just take the 4 screws out and turn it around and put the screws back in. Then screw the base to your bentch and then you have lots of clearence. Then he would leave a coffee can on the floor for the drips. My RCBS has an adjustable arm, small rod, to rest the mold on while pouring. This only worked if your hooks are not sticking out from the bottom of the mold.

I want to stress that if you screw this to your bentch, make sure it is secure because that is a lot of weight pulling on those screws.

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Just a note ... If Hilts still have them the wire frame points DOWN so that you do not have to worry about the clearance .. I have a couple of Spinner Bait molds from way back .. Will check to see how the latest are built ... Do It should make some this way as so many use bottom pour pots.

2 Cents worth

JSC

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Good info in this thread. I just picked up a Lee Production Pot IV at Barlows while I was in Dallas.

Just from looking at it it appears you could turn the base around.

You could always add extra height by cutting a 2 by 8, and attaching it to the reversed base.

That would also add weight to the base.

Still you would want to attach it to the table with heavy duty C clamps or several wood screws, or both.

Reading about the stress on the joints eaves me wondering if it wouldn't be better to take out the end screws and replace them with threaded rod.

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Fellows I dont see exactly why raising the heigth of the pot will do much good with the wires out the top of the mold .... UNLESS ... you are not holding the sprue to the pouring hole .. I have never had any good luck at leaving a gap between the 2 ... seems to cool to fast and you gotta be real accurate and looks like it would take a lot more time ... I just slap the mold to the spout and let her rip from one cavity to the next ... I have poured some spinner baits with a Do It with the wire comming out of the top but had to slightly bend the wire to one side...

Clear me up if I am wrong about what you are talking about .......

JSC

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Fellows I dont see exactly why raising the heigth of the pot will do much good with the wires out the top of the mold .... UNLESS ... you are not holding the sprue to the pouring hole .. I have never had any good luck at leaving a gap between the 2 ... seems to cool to fast and you gotta be real accurate and looks like it would take a lot more time ... I just slap the mold to the spout and let her rip from one cavity to the next ... I have poured some spinner baits with a Do It with the wire comming out of the top but had to slightly bend the wire to one side...

Clear me up if I am wrong about what you are talking about .......

JSC

I would like a 1" more clearance for the reason you mentioned. When I use bigger hooks in my spinnerbait mold, my wire forms rub against the bottom of the pot, so I have to bend them a little to be able to get the mold in to pour. When I bend them to get the mold in closer, sometimes the wireform is a little crooked on the bait, so when the spinnerbait cools, I have to bend the wireform back again to straighten it. This is more of an annoyance more than anything else.

Edited by cadman
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I had to know. So I opened the Lee Production Pot IV and took a measurement from the base to the spout.

Looks like 4 3/16" give or take a hair or two.

Well they must be making them a little taller. You have 7/16 " more then my pots do. That's good to know.

Edited by cadman
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