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Solution To Stick Bait 'dents'

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Hey guys..

I know there are some guys out there who struggle with 'dents' when hand pouring stick baits in a two-peice mold. I wanted to introduce a stick bait to my product line, so a few weeks ago I bought my first stick bait mold. I had never had 'dent' problems prior to this, and my first 200-300 sticks were flawless. After these, however, I started noticing dents. Then they got worse and worse. I didn't change my pouring technique, recipe, anything. They just randomly started getting worse. Even when my mold was cold. I struggled to find a solution to the problem and tried everything.

After reading the 'dent' post on here, I read an idea about pouring the worm half and half. I tried that and it worked on my first pour, however after that, the dents just moved up. Previously, all the dents were on the same side in the same place on ALL the worms... right in the middle of the 'ring' on the worm, where the hook goes.

And I finally found the solution.. it takes more time, but it worked for me 100% of the time.. I pour half the worm in each cavity.. then by the time I'm done pouring all the cavities, I start back at the first one and pour 25% of the worm on each cavity, then pour the last 25% of the worm. I know it sacrifices time, but with the amount of sticks I had with 'dents' in 'em, I had to do something.

So for the few out there that really struggle with dents, this worked for me. My sticks are now perfect.

Hoped this helped somebody.

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Hey guys..

I know there are some guys out there who struggle with 'dents' when hand pouring stick baits in a two-peice mold. I wanted to introduce a stick bait to my product line, so a few weeks ago I bought my first stick bait mold. I had never had 'dent' problems prior to this, and my first 200-300 sticks were flawless. After these, however, I started noticing dents. Then they got worse and worse. I didn't change my pouring technique, recipe, anything. They just randomly started getting worse. Even when my mold was cold. I struggled to find a solution to the problem and tried everything.

After reading the 'dent' post on here, I read an idea about pouring the worm half and half. I tried that and it worked on my first pour, however after that, the dents just moved up. Previously, all the dents were on the same side in the same place on ALL the worms... right in the middle of the 'ring' on the worm, where the hook goes.

And I finally found the solution.. it takes more time, but it worked for me 100% of the time.. I pour half the worm in each cavity.. then by the time I'm done pouring all the cavities, I start back at the first one and pour 25% of the worm on each cavity, then pour the last 25% of the worm. I know it sacrifices time, but with the amount of sticks I had with 'dents' in 'em, I had to do something.

So for the few out there that really struggle with dents, this worked for me. My sticks are now perfect.

Hoped this helped somebody.

I believe, like others here, that the dent is caused by air heating (expanding) and cooling (contracting) where the 2 piece molds connect. I recently made a silicon/water mold for a custom worm. It wasn't a 2 piece, I just pulled the worm through the sprue when it had cooled. I was just trying to make enough copies to make a POP mold. There were never any dents which reinforces the expanding air theory. I've been meaning to perform a little test on an unused mold but haven't gotten around to it yet. I was thinking about trying to make a seal around each individual cavity with some silicon using a hypodermic needle to get a really small bead. On the opposite side, grease it up a little so the silicon won't stick then put the 2 parts of the mold together. If I can't get a thin seal then obviously the seem on the bait will be a little bigger. If it works though, I guess it would have to be a personal decision as to what is less desired, the dents or a bigger seem. Personally, I'm thinking I can live with a bigger seem because the dents are just plain ugly.

Also, it seems to me that the dents aren't quite as bad if you pour every other cavity, give it a minute or 2 then pour the remaining cavities.

Greg

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The dents are nothing more than the plastic cooling and shrinking. You will find that the dents are more problematic in baits that have alot of smooth area or not as much detail in the mold for the plastic to hold onto. Sticks and Flukes are usually problem baits for dents. Simply pull the baits out of the mold when they are still a bit warm and put them in water to let them finish curing. Since I started doing this all my baits are now dent free. Hope this helps and be carefull not to pull the baits out too early and burn yourself.

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The dents are nothing more than the plastic cooling and shrinking. You will find that the dents are more problematic in baits that have alot of smooth area or not as much detail in the mold for the plastic to hold onto. Sticks and Flukes are usually problem baits for dents. Simply pull the baits out of the mold when they are still a bit warm and put them in water to let them finish curing. Since I started doing this all my baits are now dent free. Hope this helps and be carefull not to pull the baits out too early and burn yourself.

Maybe that works but I still believe what I said. Lots of times the dent occurs in the exact same place in the bait which I attribute to the 2 mold parts not fitting perfectly in that area. In the temporary silicon mold I did where I pulled the worm through the sprue I let it completely cool so as not to stretch it out when I remove the worm. Not a single dent in any of the worms.

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Maybe that works but I still believe what I said. Lots of times the dent occurs in the exact same place in the bait which I attribute to the 2 mold parts not fitting perfectly in that area. In the temporary silicon mold I did where I pulled the worm through the sprue I let it completely cool so as not to stretch it out when I remove the worm. Not a single dent in any of the worms.

It might also have to do with the rigid mold. Plastic shrinks as it cools, and an aluminum mold is rigid, so the two ends of the molded worm, as they cool and shrink, probably pull the middle toward each end, and make dents in the middle as it is stretched. A flexible mold, from silicone, would probably expand with the heated plastic, and shrink a little with it as it cools. Or it might release the plastic as it shrinks, so it's not pulling itself from both ends.

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Thanks bass100, that tecnique worked pretty well. This is just a big hassle. Does anyone know if particular brands of molds are more prone to this than others? I am using the 5.25" K-Mold stick mold from LureCraft. Would a CNC be any different.

I use that mold and have never had a dent. I've made probably 1000 or so senkos out of it.

I'm not sure what you think a CNC mold is, all aluminum molds are cut with a CNC machine.

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"I'm not sure what you think a CNC mold is, all aluminum molds are cut with a CNC machine. "

Just to add a little .... At one time there were a lot of "Cast Aluminum" molds made .. I have a good collection of them (mostly custom made) ... Do not know if any one is doing this kind of work today ... There were "Sand Cast" & "Flour Cast" .. the Flour Cast had a brighter smoother finish to them but cost a little more to produce.

Just a little trivia ... and does any one know of a person casting Aluminum molds at the present?

JSC

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"I'm not sure what you think a CNC mold is, all aluminum molds are cut with a CNC machine. "

Just to add a little .... At one time there were a lot of "Cast Aluminum" molds made .. I have a good collection of them (mostly custom made) ... Do not know if any one is doing this kind of work today ... There were "Sand Cast" & "Flour Cast" .. the Flour Cast had a brighter smoother finish to them but cost a little more to produce.

Just a little trivia ... and does any one know of a person casting Aluminum molds at the present?

JSC

I knew that but I don't believe any molds are cast now a days.

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