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jrfan8

Chrome finish

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I know this question has been beat in the ground but has anyone found anything that works really good for a chrome finish? I have tried several paints but when you add the clear coat the finish goes flat. I have seen all the expensive ways to do the chrome but I don't really do enough for that.

Thanks

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:) ok, by burnishing I am referring to the process of applying the metal tape with fingertips and tools. It's also reffered to as hand leafing. Stretching and forcing a tight bond between the lures surface and tape by workin from the center to the outer edges creates a wrinkle free finish.

The lures I cast are made of hard plastics. This makes it easier to get the foil on. I apply alot of pressure to stretch and flatten the foil. I then use the tools to get all the detailing of the lures I make. ie: gillplates, eye sockets and lips. Having a hard non giving surface helps keep the tools from gouging the lures as I work. The tape is very thick. It stretches alot and gets thinner as it is worked into place.

The tools can be anything from store bought to homebrew tools. The most important part is that the tools themselves have to be absolutley smooth, without knicks or burrs. Lincoyas smooth butterknife edge is a good example. If the tool starts to leave small scrapes in the metal you can wrap a few layers of klinker paper around it and resume burnishing.

In the photo I show a sculpy brand tool set for polymere clays. I used these for a while untill the tape edges started to score the nylon tools. I now use a large granny sweater button. It's big, round and you can easily get 2 or 3 thumbs on it at a time. Its harder and more scratch resistant than the sculpy tools :wink:

One side is done at a time and trimmed along the center seam. If there are any outstanding folds or missing areas along the seam it can easily be filled with thinned wood putty. I then polish the lure with an old cotton tshirt to a high luster shine using the mist from my breath.

When the lure is levitating with an aura around it.... I know its time to apply the epoxy seal. The lure is then ready for its paint job.

When I get caught up with my work I'll post a hoosierdaddy styled tut on metal leafing.

Just take your time with it and don't rush. You will develope a knack for it after the first few baits. :)

*** Wood lures should be sealed with epoxy before the metal foil goes on to keep them from getting gouged by the tools***

Has anyone tried blade dip on their foiled baits?

Shawn

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Thanks for the compliments fellas :)

Skeeter

The scale pattern might be another option I offer my clients when I get my site up. The added detailing might be a feature for litmited editions as well.

I was in walmart the other day and picked up a bag of brown shiners. You know the kind, real shads but in a ziplock pack...

The shimmery silver scales were, as I noticed, flat and less pronounced unlike those of perch or blue gills. They had an etched pattern that covered the entire body of the fish in tight archs just like Jed's sardine and Hiro's topwater plugs. About the time I was marveling at these small wonders my lady walks up the isle to me and says "Daaaang! Those look great!!! Those are some of the best pours I've seen!" lol "who makes 'em?" I bit my lip and chuckled lol . Since then I've kinda got the itch to give it a try :)

Triton Mike

I found your Doodad tutorial to be very informative. When I try the scale pattern I plan to tie one. A Doodad will make the lure that much more impressive.

Shawn

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u63405

:) thanks, you did a kick-butt job on the dee bait with the doodad tail. Post more of them as soon as you get them done :wink:

Hughesy

Yes they are hollow lures. I manufacture them in my little backroom of a shop. Here's a link to how I set up my 1st generation prototypes.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=1617&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Shawn

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