Piscivorous Pike Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 (edited) I have seen hook slots in one piece RTV molds that are part of the RTV mold itself. How do you hold the model open to take the RTV? I have had a few ideas of using pins to hold open the slot, removing them when complete. That should work but I doubt that is the common way to do it. I am using Smooth-on 27T with a shore 27, it is plenty resillient and stiff to hold up to being a slot template. I have made them with metal strips in the past for POP, DWP and for RTV added cross wires to anchor in the RTV. The metal usually seperates at the junction of the RTV and causes a flashing that is annoying. Edited March 23, 2010 by Piscivorous Pike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBK Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 Use a hard resin copy of the bait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anselmo Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Is it a one sided mold? i.e. are you top pouring so the slot will end up at the bottom of the poured bait? If so you can anchor your master to the mold casing and paint the surfact of the master bait (eh heh master bait ) with RTV using a disposable paintbrush (helps eliminate air bubbles too!) ensuring you force plenty of RTV into the slot, then pour your RTV over the top as normal Easier to do than describe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted March 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Is it a one sided mold? i.e. are you top pouring so the slot will end up at the bottom of the poured bait? If so you can anchor your master to the mold casing and paint the surfact of the master bait (eh heh master bait ) with RTV using a disposable paintbrush (helps eliminate air bubbles too!) ensuring you force plenty of RTV into the slot, then pour your RTV over the top as normal Easier to do than describe! Good concept. What I am seeing, anchoring them down on their backs is the natural position of the slot is for the side walls to fold inward and crowd out the space. As far as the solid resin one goes, good idea, but what comes first, the chicken or the egg, the horse or the cart. You got to have one that is open to copy, unless off course you are speaking of making a prototype. I am copying existing lures. When you look at these lures you see that the soft plastic rolls a bit on its selve and the slot is never really open fully. To hold it that way I would take a piece of leader wire or straight pin and pin through the side of the lure accross the slot, side to side. Cut the wire so it is flush with the lure body and adjust the positions of the sides so the slot is uniformily open. After pouring the RTV the pins can be pulled, the small pin hold shold not matter in the slot element of the mold, if it does a spot of clear RTV silicone seal, even water catalyzed dabbe into it will close it. Another method that may work is dependent on the fact that RTV will stick to itself, even the silicone sealer will glue to the RTV two part product. The lure could be secureand a small well bult up around the opening of the slot, the slot can be filled with Air cure RTV sealer, water catalyzed RTV sealer or even the two part product. Once that is set you will have slot plate of RTV with "root" and can be planted into the mold like I do with metal plates now. Hey, I like that idea best and will try it if something better does not grow on this little thread here soon. Thanks for the help so far, inspiring, you all have me thinking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBK Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 I thought you were making copies of another mold, sorry about that. Egg came first, dinosaurs laid eggs and they were way before chickens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anselmo Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 When you look at these lures you see that the soft plastic rolls a bit on its selve and the slot is never really open fully. Can you post a pic of the lure in question se we can look too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Can you post a pic of the lure in question se we can look too? I am having major problems with my picture host, IMAGE SHACK, there are holes, many of my posted photos have disappeared! Here is a good shot of a slot, of one of my original molds in this post: TU taught me this, its long, pics too. and there should be more photos in the thread. CLICK TO ENGLARGE THE THUMBNAIL TO SEE THE SLOT BETTER: I am making RTV molds now and better 2 piece DWP and POP molds, using injectors. I have owned, Del's, Bear's and the Canjun Marinator injector (my favorite injector). They all are very good, each has some unique features, none have all the features I would want, so I got them all to cover the bases. I am making model prototypes by gluing together parts. Often my creation have thin appendages, usually flukes or tail stalks, and need injection to fill out. So I am making new molds, I have two crates full of POP and DWP molds now. Maybe I can use the old molds as paving stones and build a new patio with them-lol BTW-- I found a just great glue, needs no accelerator or 2cd part, called SUREHOLD, Plastic Surgery, can get it from Basspro, ACE, Amazon, web search it and I paid $1.45 tube none of this $10 stuff. Best plastic glue I have ever tried!! The joints often do not fit quite right. An RTV mold will pick up that detail so I make a POP intermediary mold and sand out the ridges and miss alignments, make a good model in it an then an RTV mold. Last night I experimented with filling the slots with silicone and laying two beads of the stuff on top of the fill to be used as a "root" when I make the RTV mold. I also found that I could hit the ridges and lines of the assembled pieces with a cigar torch lighter and I could melt them smooth in an instant and may not need an intermediary mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anselmo Posted March 26, 2010 Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 I am having major problems with my picture host, IMAGE SHACK, there are holes, many of my posted photos have disappeared! Here is a good shot of a slot, of one of my original molds in this post: TU taught me this, its long, pics too. and there should be more photos in the thread. CLICK TO ENGLARGE THE THUMBNAIL TO SEE THE SLOT BETTER: I am making RTV molds now and better 2 piece DWP and POP molds, using injectors. I have owned, Del's, Bear's and the Canjun Marinator injector (my favorite injector). They all are very good, each has some unique features, none have all the features I would want, so I got them all to cover the bases. I am making model prototypes by gluing together parts. Often my creation have thin appendages, usually flukes or tail stalks, and need injection to fill out. So I am making new molds, I have two crates full of POP and DWP molds now. Maybe I can use the old molds as paving stones and build a new patio with them-lol BTW-- I found a just great glue, needs no accelerator or 2cd part, called SUREHOLD, Plastic Surgery, can get it from Basspro, ACE, Amazon, web search it and I paid $1.45 tube none of this $10 stuff. Best plastic glue I have ever tried!! The joints often do not fit quite right. An RTV mold will pick up that detail so I make a POP intermediary mold and sand out the ridges and miss alignments, make a good model in it an then an RTV mold. Last night I experimented with filling the slots with silicone and laying two beads of the stuff on top of the fill to be used as a "root" when I make the RTV mold. I also found that I could hit the ridges and lines of the assembled pieces with a cigar torch lighter and I could melt them smooth in an instant and may not need an intermediary mold. The method i noted above of painting and forcing RTV into the hook slot will work fine with this if you are doing a 1-sided mold Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted March 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 The method i noted above of painting and forcing RTV into the hook slot will work fine with this if you are doing a 1-sided mold Nick Thanks, Nick, I set up two molds to make last night. I injected three models of a 9 inch original I call Franken Minnow with RTV into the slot. I use a caulking gun and a large tube of the RTV silicone sealer, DAP or WalMart Mainstay. I filled the channel then laid on top of that two rows of a bead of the silicone. Once it hardened I removed it and trimmed the flashing back to the area of the slot with scissors then reinserted them. To keep unwanted RTV or pop in the other one from sticking to the plate I will coat those areas with Vaseline and will seal the already molded to fit plate with Vaseline to its model. Those hook slot RTV plates came out beautiful, and exact copy of the original and the two rows of bead on top should lock just fine into the RTV of the mold or POP of the plaster mold. I have glue these down on glass, a 4 cavity to make, and built the walls of shiny cardboard with a glue gun. I will fill that with 2 part RVT, 27T, the shore 27 Smoothon RTV. This is a one piece mold but will allow me to put a hard cover on it, where the glass is now, and use it as an injection mold too. I have done that with POP molds AAMOF. From one of those existing POP molds that has a metal hook slot I overfilled the cavities and made one piece "rug" like LONGHORN does. I will block around this model and make either a pop or dwp mold with it. I have also this time filled the the slot with rtv. This type of hybrid mold can either be poured open or pourd with a plate on it or injected. I shake from nerve injuries to I sometimes have difficulty pouring cleanly narrow appendages like tail flukes so I like two piece molds for a clean copy. I should finish off the RTV mold tonight, pour with it tomorrow, the POP one will take a few days, 'cause I need to dry it and seal it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
