Mac10 Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 On bassfishin.com there is a post on the Message Board about making a mold out of Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty and then using it to make hard baits out of Bondo. My question, if you make a mold from the putty would it work for molding soft plastics? and if so, what would you need to coat it with so the plastic wouldn't stick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 Hey Mac, I quit using plaster altogether once I found Durham's . It is far superior to plaster. It picks up more detail, dries as hard as a rock and it doesn't brake ez if you should happen to drop one. I love the stuff. I pour all my soft bait in them now. It makes a great 2 piece mold because it does NOT shrink.. It does need to be coated though. I use a light coat of fiberglass resin mixed with asatone to thin it and the hardner. A light coat of this after the mold is completely dry is all you need. The mold will be nice and shiney and the baits pop right out. I tried devcon but it pealed right off. So give it a try I think you'll like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac10 Posted February 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 Thanks for the helpful information. It's appreciated.....Mac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
u63405 Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 where do you get this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlbyDogGone Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 I too would like to know where you ge this stuff, it sounds good Alby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsac Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 You guys can Durhams at any hardware store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlbyDogGone Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 Thanks for the info Alby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brivera88 Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 i am going to the local home depot....i found that its $4.49 for 4 lbs and less for smaller portions..this stuff sounds like its the real deal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 One word of warning if you need to cut any pour holes or drill it, you need to do this before you bake it. It will be hard enough to cut, drill, file, and such in this state , but after it has been baked (and yes you need to bake it before you coat it with resin) It is so hard it is like grinding on bone. Smells like the dentist grinding on your teeth too. LOL If you do this you'll like this stuff too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richoc Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 FNF, How a bout some baking time and temps. Just about to finish my frist mold for lead with the stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 I bake mine for about 8 hours at a low temp about 200deg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 I went to Home Depot today and they carry the Durham Rock Hard Putty. They tell me the material is not pourable. What process are you using to make the mold. Are you just pressing the model into the putty? Thanks, Pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teamdiarrhea Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 It's plenty "pourable" for molds if you mix it right - I make mine where it is just thick enough that you have to use a rubber spatula to help get it out of the mixing container, kind of like a thick pancake batter - once you pour it into the mold container, lightly tap on the sides of the container and it will level out perfectly - this will also bring the bubbles up to the top. I have one of those lights that clamps to the edge of a table that you can bend the neck on - I put a 100 watt lamp in it and bend it down so it is about an inch or so from the top of the mold and let it "cook" for several hours or overnight - same effect as putting it in the oven at low temps as mentioned above. It's the best stuff I've found - hard, tough, and doesn't shrink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop Posted March 11, 2004 Report Share Posted March 11, 2004 OK. Went back to Home Depot today, bought a small container of Durham Rock Hard Putty and then went to the kitchen store and bought a small meat loaf type pan (Stainless Steel discounted to $7.00 but guaranteed for 15 years). Durham says won't shrink, sticks solid etc etc. Does this mean I need to coat my pan so the mold will release? Do I need to glue by plastic sample to the bottom? I'm ready to go guys as soon as I hear from you. Pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercury Posted March 11, 2004 Report Share Posted March 11, 2004 pop if you can flex the pan you can pop the mold out. I am working on a tutorial for making a water putty mold. Be sure that you seal the mold after it has finished drying. I apply no less than 2 thin layers of thinned devcron. Durhams will suck up what you put on it at first, then you get a good shine coat for beautiful baits. I hate p.o.p. molds, the weight of Durhams as well as the ease of use is great. Oh one other tip. If you have to shave any part of the mold due it before it is totaly set. If it has cured you wish you had done it before it set up like iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop Posted March 11, 2004 Report Share Posted March 11, 2004 I just went to the garage to see if the pan I purchased would flex. That Stainless steel is solid. I got the pan because I could put it in the oven to cure the Durham. Should I be using Plastic and remove the Durham before curing? If so, I have a small meat loaf pan I wasn't planning on. Thanks for your help. Pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercury Posted March 11, 2004 Report Share Posted March 11, 2004 Pop I found plastic containers at the dollar store. All I look for is one that has a flat bottom. This way it gives you a nice surface to work with. Once you get the mold out of the container, do your tweeking if need be. Let it sit for a day and then pop it into the oven fi drive out the moisture. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 Guy's; I've got a question. What is the manufacturer's intended use fro the putty. I can't find it up here in Canada. Maybe we have it under another name. Thanks for your help. Nova Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercury Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 its a repair powder that you mix with water. it patches plaster, wood, fills knot holesand molding strong figures. Might want to look for donald durham company from des moines, Iowa http://www.waterputty.com/ Heres a link for them. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conman Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 You can use Cooking oil on that pan you bought as a release agent to get it out of the pan. Just make sure you coat it really good before you pour in the putty. I have not cured mine in the oven or any other way before but I sure that will work too. For the price I dont know why you wouldn't want to use it. I love it. Just need more time off from my JOB to get with it. lol mofish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthworm77 Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 Wow, this stuff does work. I went to the hardware store and bought 4lbs. I promptly made a 7 cavity chunk mold and saved about 25.00 doing it rather than buying RTV. This is the chunk I poured 1/2 head, 2 1/2 " in lenght and about 1" wide at the tails. Perfect for a 1/16 or 1/8oz jig n pig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercury Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 I highly recomend treating the cavitys 2 or 3 times with thinned devcron 2 ton epoxy. But it is much easier to work with than p.o.p. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted March 27, 2004 Report Share Posted March 27, 2004 I'm using fiberglass resin to finish my molds and it has worked great so far. I thin it with asatone, ad the hardner and brush on. I'm also now using a mesh in my molds (I got some vail mat. from wally world) it works great and helps keep them from cracking. I pour half the mold put a piece of mesh down then pour the other half. All my molds are 2 piece molds and this is by far the best molding mat. I have found yet for 2 piece molds. My baits are a flatened round jerkbait with a hook slot in the top. The only way to make then is using a 2 piece mold. Some I pour flat and some I pour as standups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop Posted March 31, 2004 Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 What do you do to keep the putty from getting under the model. When using another plastic bait as the model, the putty flows under the model and if the model is intricate it is difficult to cut away the excess without damaging the mold. Pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercury Posted March 31, 2004 Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 Hey pop, I would recomend to let the "bottom" layer start to set up, Then to press the lure into the putty, OR>> get enough clay that you can make the bottom layer out of clay, then press one side of the lure into the clay, pour the putty, let set up, Flip the mold over, remove the clay portion, add what ever you will use to keep the two half's from sticking together. pour the "top" of the mold. Does that help? It is a bit more time consuming, but it does get the job done. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
