Kozak Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 Hey everyone, Thinking about starting to pour some of my own plastics. I have a few questions before I get too involved though. Hopefully some of you on here can answer these: 1) Is it cheaper overall to pour your own baits in the end, rather than buying them in a store? 2) Which type(material) of 1 piece mold is best to start out with? 3) About how much $$$ should I expect to spend to get started? I'm thinking on starting with 2-3 molds 4) If I'm pouring 3-6.5" worm-style baits, about how many baits can I expect from 1 gallon of plastic (or baits per oz) 5) I'm looking for a flexible soft plastic but not TOO soft so that it flings off the hook on every cast, is there any plastic perfect for this? The baits I'm thinking about pouring will be used for freshwater bass fishing. I'm mainly looking to pour finesse/dropshot baits, trickworm style worms, and jig trailers. Thanks for any help, Mark K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griver Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 Hi from another Newbie Hope some one answers your post, because your asking the same questions I am. I got a worm kit at a yard sale, needs to be cleaned up a bit, but it's a start. figured I would pour some during the winter when I can't fish. I read the "don't for newbie" was helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozak Posted June 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 haha I guess no one wants to answer us? I'm thinking of starting out with 2 silicone/plastic molds and 1-2 aluminum molds (pours not injected), a 1 gallon of 536 (maximum flex), 1 pt of hardner, 2 glitters, and maybe 4-6 colors I'd like to start out just by experimenting with some colors and stocking up on baits for myself. Eventually if I get the hang of it, I'll look to expand but at first I'm just looking to stock up for my upcoming tournament season. Thinking 6-7" Trickworm style bait, 4-5" Roboworm style bait, 3-4" Zipper Paddle tail bait, and either another finesse shad/worm or perhaps a jig trailer mold. let me know what you do Griver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griver Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 Yep I guess we will figure it out on our own.... I got three molds in my kit...6" or 7"curly tail... 5" or 6" spade tail, and a 5" finesse stlye....two botles of glitter, gold and silver. There was empty bottles of coloarnt which leaked out all over every thing. after I got them cleaned up the molds came from M-F. I also got about 2lbs of used plastic, which I'm going to practice with. I don't fish tours...but I do fish lot, I live on a river that has a lot of smallies in it. I've been looking at lure craft or M-F for supplies how about you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozak Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 nice. are your molds aluminum or silicone/plastic? I think my first order is going to just come from LC. I found 1 mold I really like on Bobstackle and 2 on Del-mart. My biggest thing is finding a used microwave on craigslist, then I'll place my order and get started! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 Mark, I think folks didn't answer because too many questions and no easy answers. I'll give you my opinions. 1. I think it would definitely be cheaper for you to buy your worms rather than make them. Most people don't realize how few baits we really use. 2. I would buy a couple RTV molds. You can see if you like pouring and don't have to go through the mold making and they are inexpensive. 3. You can answer that one yourself by looking a prices. you might consider a starter kit some folks sell. 4. Can't answer that one...depends on the worm...I don't pour worms much. 5. There's no perfect plastic that will make all those so you like them. I'd start with medium and you could add hardener or softener depending. Just my and hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 Forgot to say welcome and that pouring is a neat hobby for a fisherman as long as you realize it will be an expense like all hobbies and may turn into an addiction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesse1378 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 i just started as well. my molds were home made. i used resin..the cheap stuff from wal-mart. and a bread pan form the dollar store (3 for a buck) mix the resin and pour, as it starts to thicken up i add placed 4 trick worms on top and another i used 5 finesse worms. mold works great and produces great baits. i did not buy any kits, i order a lil plastic (dont go big atleast a gallon) a couple colors and a cople glitter. buy all separate and get stuff to amke the colors you use the most. 1) in the end it is cheaper to pour your own...starting off it is not lol 2) answered above. rtv works well, but i couldnt get it to come out how i wanted. the resin is perfect 3) starting cost depends on how much you get lol. a gallon of calhouns is like 29 bucks. and if you get alluminum molds they go for anything from 30 + my first two all. molds were a 4" 10 cavity stick bait (120 bucks) and a 3.5 kickin frog (30 something) stick was from del-mart and the frog was from bear. 4) here's my numbers...1280 4" slim stick baits from a gallon. 256 3.5" frogs from a gallon. 5) i started off with calhouns soft. you can add salt and softner for stick, leave it be for tricks and finesse worms and trailers. most people use med for frogs, but i'm using soft and they seem fine to me. for more plasces to get info try our bearbaits.com and del-mart.com each have forums and everyone has good info. i know on bear's you get more replys quicker *hint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtySouth Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 Of course pouring is cheaper than buying! As long as your an avid plastics fisherman that is. I run through about 50 to 60 worms on an average week of fishing. I keep all of the torn up worms and take them back to the shop and re-heat and re-pour. So virtually, as long as I don't lose worms, they last forever. That is WAY cheaper. Of course the set-up cost to get started will dig you in a hole, especially if your pouring for your own personal use. Give some to your friends and fishin' buddies and before long, if ya get good, you will be selling some by word of mouth. This will compensate a little for your start-up costs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griver Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 my molds are resin, or hard plastic. I found a small microwave that a friend was throwing away because they broke the glass turn table plate, I'll come up with some to replace it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozak Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 thanks everyone, I appreciate the responses did some calculations and looks like I will be spending around 160$ to start with (including a 20$ or cheaper microwave from craigslist). To me, that's a decent price seeing as how 1000 plastics should get me through the season and I'll be able to make some custom colors that I can't find in stores. I'm also pretty confident that I could sell off enough baits to at least break even to club members at my school. A lot of the guys fish primarily texas rigs and carolina rigs. If I end up getting setup, I'm sure I'll be back to share and learn and ask more questions. thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesse1378 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 thanks everyone, I appreciate the responses did some calculations and looks like I will be spending around 160$ to start with (including a 20$ or cheaper microwave from craigslist). To me, that's a decent price seeing as how 1000 plastics should get me through the season and I'll be able to make some custom colors that I can't find in stores. I'm also pretty confident that I could sell off enough baits to at least break even to club members at my school. A lot of the guys fish primarily texas rigs and carolina rigs. If I end up getting setup, I'm sure I'll be back to share and learn and ask more questions. thanks again if you get a cheap microwave make sure its at lease 900 watts. i found only a couple 1100 watt microwaves on craigslist for 50 bucks and they wouldnt come down. so i went to target and found a brand new one with 900 watts and a warrenty for 60. so shop around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBK Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 You will not get 1000 6.5" worms out of a gallon of plastic. I get around 250-300 5" stick baits per gallon so if you have a 5" stick bait (senko) handy you can do your calculations off that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozak Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 I've done a lot of reading and researching... supposedly you can get 6 6" straight tail (trickworm style) worms per oz of plastic. 128 oz per gallon = around 768 6" worms. I believe these are hand poured with 1 flat side (similar to the Zoom Trickworm). If this rings true then you could assume to possibly get around 1344 4 1/2" finesse worms per gallon (4 1/2" is 75% of 6", thus 768 X 1.75 = 1344)... also I saw somewhere that people are getting around 500-600 5 1/4" stick baits per gallon with the del inject mold (if you re melt the excess). Perhaps you are doing something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griver Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 on heating it in a micro.....about how long? I know every one is different, but genrally. when it's ready yo pour, is it thin like water or more like cold pancake syrup? All so do precoat the mold with something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) on heating it in a micro.....about how long? I know every one is different, but genrally. when it's ready yo pour, is it thin like water or more like cold pancake syrup? All so do precoat the mold with something? Don't try to heat the plastic all in one blast; you will burn it. Start at 2 minutes(depending on how many oz of plastic), take it out and stir it slowly; then return it at 30 sec. bursts until it's ready. As you use your micro more and more, you will learn how your micro works. Micros are not all the same; what you can get away with in one will burn the plastic in another. Be patient and remember everything you do. If you have to write it down as you do it so you can refer to it later. After a while it will be second nature to you. www.novalures.com Edited June 5, 2010 by nova Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) All good advise, just remember when you heat the plastic it will go from milk consistency to thick glue like consistency then to a syrup that is when it is ready, if you can afford it you should get an infrared thermometer it will help a great deal with heating the plastic. I would purchase colors that are ready right out of the bottle i.e. watermelon, green pumpkin, junebug, black and the like, learning to mix colors can use up quite a bit of plastic during the learning curve, Keep it simple in the beginning and you won't be disappointed then prepare to open your wallet cause once you catch the bug its all over .. Also when you buy your pyrex cup root through the cups as they are not made equal, some will have a narrower spout and thats what you want to start out with it will help in pouring a narrow stream and start out with 4ozs instead of 8, a half full cup is much easier to pour from than a full one. Edited June 5, 2010 by mrbilky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBK Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 In my micro (900w GE) 1:30-2 minutes fully cooks 4 oz of plastic in a 1 cup anchor brand cup. I normally do 1 minute then stir, at one minute it is still liquid plastisol. Then I do a 30 sec blast, at 1:30 it is either fully cooked or just about ready. After 1:30 I add the salt and coloring then do another 30 second blast (the salt will cool the plastic). Then I add the glitter and pour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozak Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) In my micro (900w GE) 1:30-2 minutes fully cooks 4 oz of plastic in a 1 cup anchor brand cup. I normally do 1 minute then stir, at one minute it is still liquid plastisol. Then I do a 30 sec blast, at 1:30 it is either fully cooked or just about ready. After 1:30 I add the salt and coloring then do another 30 second blast (the salt will cool the plastic). Then I add the glitter and pour. Don't they also say NOT to use Anchor because they explode in the microwave? Edited June 5, 2010 by Kozak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Not true, the problem is operator error, i.e. putting the cup on a cooler or colder surface, practice safety and no problems. Thermal shock is always operator error, place on wood, pot holder or other than cold location and all is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBK Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Don't they also say NOT to use Anchor because they explode in the microwave? Pyrex are actually built cheaper than anchor. The old pyrex (20-30 years ago) are the good ones, now they are made with cheap recycled glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozak Posted June 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2010 roger that, thanks for the clear up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 6, 2010 Report Share Posted June 6, 2010 I've done a lot of reading and researching... supposedly you can get 6 6" straight tail (trickworm style) worms per oz of plastic. 128 oz per gallon = around 768 6" worms. I believe these are hand poured with 1 flat side (similar to the Zoom Trickworm). If this rings true then you could assume to possibly get around 1344 4 1/2" finesse worms per gallon (4 1/2" is 75% of 6", thus 768 X 1.75 = 1344)... also I saw somewhere that people are getting around 500-600 5 1/4" stick baits per gallon with the del inject mold (if you re melt the excess). Perhaps you are doing something wrong? If 1 oz yields 6, 6" baits, that same oz will yield 8, 4.5" baits. A gallon yielding 768 6" baits will yield appx. 1024 4.5" baits. (768 / .75) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesse1378 Posted June 6, 2010 Report Share Posted June 6, 2010 Not true, the problem is operator error, i.e. putting the cup on a cooler or colder surface, practice safety and no problems. Thermal shock is always operator error, place on wood, pot holder or other than cold location and all is good. i agree operator error. what i did was build my pouring station out of wood. thenin front of my microwave i stapled a big (old and not usable on the car) microfiber towel to the table. that gives me a lil room to move the cup around, or have two cups sitting there and be good to go. i also make sure not to touch my aluminum molds with the pyrex cups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griver Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 Thanks for the great info, didn't know about exploding measuring cups.....does melting used plastic work the same, just do it in short time frames, mix it in between. I have about 2lbs of used plastic I want t o practice with first. Thanks G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...