Frank Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 Here is a quick look at some two color milti cavity work. This mold is a new one from Bass tackle. I also shot a Bears lizard mold just to fill in the down time. The baits come out real consistant and not much waste in the end. There were some questions on doing this with a larger mold so I figured I would post up a few pics of how I do it. I started with two cups of each color and ended up with 3 oz of each color the would not fill the injector any more. One side of the mold the other side plastic on the griddle that keep it warm The finished work and the cups of plastic that is left. In the end I had five of the baits that did not meet my quality standards for laminates. Not bad for 96 baits. This just means I give them away. Hope this answers any questions that some of you have. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveh Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskyGary Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 Very nice, will this also work in small multi cavity crappie molds? (Thinking twister molds)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 Very nice, will this also work in small multi cavity crappie molds? (Thinking twister molds)? Off the top of my head I cant see why it wont. The two colors seem to work on any mold that does not have a top and bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Really clean lures. A question from someone new to pouring. How long do you have to wait before you can demold you plastics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 I have never actually timed it I just get into a sequence that give enough time to demold without being real soft. I use the sprue to tell me if it has been long enough. On this mold at least I will tip it to the side and if the sprue is not running out it is ready. But I still put them on a piece of scrap aluminium to cool. The reason I mentioned the bear mold is that mold gave me enough time to fill both, clean out the adapter, then the injectors, then cut the sprue from the last shot and return them to the small containers in the pictures. At that point enough time has passed to demold and start again. I dont have any wait time in the middle of pouring. Kind of a one man band thing. If I had to answer a tine question I would guess maybe a minute. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Good pics and resulting baits Frank. Another quick question... What do you have your griddle set on? 250-275??? I like that new bait. Kevin is working on one very similar to that for me. Awesome to flip! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Thanks. I was trying to figure out how much faster an aluminum mold was that one made from POP. I typically wait at least five minutes to demold, and maybe more like ten. It's amazing to me that you can do such a complicated pour, clean up, and be ready to pour again in a minute. Hat's off, bigtime. I can see how that hot plate is the ticket for keeping the plastic at the right temp. for pouring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Good pics and resulting baits Frank. Another quick question... What do you have your griddle set on? 250-275??? I like that new bait. Kevin is working on one very similar to that for me. Awesome to flip! Jim I set my griddle at 400 and with all the heat loss it works out just right to keep on pouring. The sides get a build up as you draw the plastic out.I just pull that off and throw it in the small cups and remelt it and pour it back in the big cup. The temp is between 300 and 325 pretty much the hole time I am pouring. There is some stirring before you fill the injector just to get the salt or flake off the bottom and suspended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmblack Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Is that just a standard pancake griddle your using. Also can I get the recipes for that color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Is that just a standard pancake griddle your using. Also can I get the recipes for that color? Well it is a kind of griddle. It has high sides so the cups dont slide off. If you position the cup right over the corner of the heating element it work real good. Recipe for green pumkin blue flash 35 drops of lc green pumkin,teaspoon of 35 black flake and a teaspoon of 15 blue flake in 1 1/2 cups of plastic. 3 drops of mf blue, 3 small scoops of blue high lite(scoop is a popsickle stick) and a teaspoon of 15 blue flake to 1 1/2 cups of plastic. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Brabant Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Really clean lures. A question from someone new to pouring. How long do you have to wait before you can demold you plastics? The cup dosen't shatter placing it on the heat source? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Frank: Can you also comment on approx how long it took to make 96 baits with this 4 cavity mold? Just curious... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted June 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Frank: Can you also comment on approx how long it took to make 96 baits with this 4 cavity mold? Just curious... Jim I will time myself on the net order and let you know. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Thanks Frank. I was just curious more than anything!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifter Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 The cup dosen't shatter placing it on the heat source? This was my exact question when I was at Meijer's today looking at the cups and griddles. I thought I've read that you shouldn't put a Pyrex-type cup dirrectly on a heat source, more specifically a burner. I had planned on adding a 1/2-1in of water to the bottom of the griddle to kind of insulate the cups but not so much that it would splash or make them "tipsy" or float. All I DO know is that I'm getting tired of the aluminum pots on the single burner... I cannot get a delicate pour for something like a "zipper tail" worm, or worse yet claws on a craw (try and say that 5x's fast) to save my rear! Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 I had planned on adding a 1/2-1in of water to the bottom of the griddle to kind of insulate the cups but not so much that it would splash or make them "tipsy" or float. I would NOT have water around my hot plastic for sure. I get where you are going but as Frank demonstrated in his photos, my pyrex sits on a griddle just fine without shattering. It is sudden swings in temp that cause the cup to break. Like putting that hot cup on a cool surface or visa versa. Lets face it, the bottom is already over 300+ degrees with the plastic in it. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifter Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 ... and even if the water and molten plastic in close proximity were not a potentially dangerous explosive combination it still would not work as the water would boil away if the griddle were hot enough to keep the plastic workable. And that is why I asked you guys first! I greatly appreciate the info. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 This is my thinking on the subject. It really is not on the heat source it is on the pan. The heat source is under the griddle. Now all of my cups are going to break cause I know better now. Jim is right though it is just as hot when it is ready so the temp is not an issue. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 LOL! To be clear, I have had one shatter on my hot plate when I put it there directly PRIOR to heating the cup and plastic in the microwave. It was room temp or cooler. I have not had an issue with the cup or beaker on my hot plate if the cup has already been heated in the mic. My hot plate is electric and is similar to Frank's in that the heating element is under the surface and not directly touching the cup itself. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
