earthworm77 Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 I really like the fact that the injection process can do laminates lickety split......does the adapter fit over traditional 2pc molds originally made before injection molding became an option? Like can I use it for my Del's Split tail molds? Or Bob's Buzz Frogs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Sorry Craig.... I wish it was so. Might be able to send them back to Bob or Del for some work to make them adaptable. I am in the same boat with you.... Not sure whether to jump ship on the old molds or have them re-worked. Maybe someone else has gotten them to work but the adapter is made to specifically fit the 5/8" opening and the frog molds especially have a weird opening. Even using the regular injector and placing it on top of the mold is somewhat dicey. I can fill most molds by just gently pushing but have had a little squirt back at me once. Operator error though! A small rtv adapter works OK (thanks Dave!!!) but for the laminates I don't think it would work. Just me though... Maybe someone else out there has had a different experience. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 I am guessing you are talking about the tapered hole from a hand pour.I have had many of mine changed over( did it my self) and have had no issues. I can still hand pour or inject. It is worth it to me to have the option. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 (edited) I really like the fact that the injection process can do laminates lickety split......does the adapter fit over traditional 2pc molds originally made before injection molding became an option? Like can I use it for my Del's Split tail molds? Or Bob's Buzz Frogs? INjection will work on oldschool molds just fine however there are a few things that need to be mentioned. hand poured molds are not as flat as an injection molds, meaning when you put the 2 halfs together you will have a slight airgap on some of them. Its fine for hand pouring and actually helps flow the air though however on injection it tends to give you slag( if you want to call it that) and also it could force air into the next cavity that you just injected. to fix this is quite simple if you have to fix it. Best Way Take the bolts out using a c clamp and a socket ( poor mans press) then find a flat surface, Counter tops works, get some 220 grit wet dry sand paper, hose it down with wd-40. lay the face of the mold half on the paper and do a circle 8 or a circular motion with it. Try not to go a straight line as this throws ones side of the face off. Second best ( acceptable) you can also use a sanding block like they use in autobody with the same paper DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELECTRIC OR AIR OPERATED(Must be manual) of you will scrape your mold. To be honest everyone that has any alum molds should have a sanding block as over time you get nicks and dings on the faces and they dont close flat. with a sanding block you dont have to take the bolts out however it does help. if air is a continual problem from one cavity to the next then you need to cut a small groove between each cavity its easy not that hard, but just make sure you Lap aka Sand it afterwords like mentioned above to take the nicks out. NO scotch BRIGHT remember you are lapping the faces flat so what ever holds that sand paper MUST be flat No Air or electric sanders Wet and dry PAPER ONLY ( the black stuff) 200-280 grit is best anything more and you will be wasting your time, anything less is fine but it will look like crap. Must use wd-40 or some lubricate .motor oil is not a good idea as it will stain the mold if not wiped off, Water degreasers( example zep floor cleaners and degreasers) DO NOT USE it will stain the alum also in a matter of a few mins. also dont worry about taking to much material off and making your bait thinner cause you can't,well I guess you could but it would take a few days to notice it For the injector part you will need a injector tip with a chamfered end, as most of the hand pour molds have a chamfer on them. Hope that helps Shit man sorry, I thought you were talking about using a injector on a hand pour molds. I didnt see the part( didnt read it) about the 2 color injector stuff. The molds would have to be reworked for that. Delw Edited June 21, 2010 by Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthworm77 Posted June 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Do you think it is something that I could dremel out to widen the hole or does it have to be a snug fit? There are a few really nice looking molds.....the chigger craw type I saw on here really caught my eye because I use a ton of them. I'm also looking at the tube mold for making custom colors for myself, generally when I dip tubes I need to make 3000ct of more in a run. Its just a tedious excercise. This injection process allows you to make a handful and I like like that idea. Jim, you and I are like dinosaurs of the handpouring world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthworm77 Posted June 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Del, I figure a single pour shouldn't be much of an issue, I'm out to do some lam's though. I'm sure I'll find a way to make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Do you think it is something that I could dremel out to widen the hole or does it have to be a snug fit? There are a few really nice looking molds.....the chigger craw type I saw on here really caught my eye because I use a ton of them. I'm also looking at the tube mold for making custom colors for myself, generally when I dip tubes I need to make 3000ct of more in a run. Its just a tedious excercise. This injection process allows you to make a handful and I like like that idea. Jim, you and I are like dinosaurs of the handpouring world. if you have a drill press you can do it yourself. grab a 5/8 drill bit reduced shank. put the mold together and clamp it to the table . also use a C clamp amd make sure you put it between the 2 cavities that you are going to drill. go as slow as you can 100-300 rpm lots of wd-40 and you will be fine. remember a large drill bit will bite when it contacts a hole already cut so the mold must be fastened down very good. A dremel tool I would have to say NO but it would work it would just take for ever and wont be perfectly round, Not that you need it perfectly round. Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Nothing wrong with dinosaurs I have learned alot from the old school guys. I just twisted it a little. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Jim, you and I are like dinosaurs of the handpouring world. Dinosaurs??? Oh yeah, what were we talking about again??? LOL!!! The drill seems to be the ticket Craig. I am going to rework one that I have I can try on and see. Just will have to take it realy easy as the sprue is not deep and if you cut into the actual opening in the mold, you won't have an area to cut off the sprue easily. It will be one big 5/8" piece of plastic attached to the nose of your frog... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Brabant Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Dinosaurs??? Oh yeah, what were we talking about again??? LOL!!! The drill seems to be the ticket Craig. I am going to rework one that I have I can try on and see. Just will have to take it realy easy as the sprue is not deep and if you cut into the actual opening in the mold, you won't have an area to cut off the sprue easily. It will be one big 5/8" piece of plastic attached to the nose of your frog... Jim If you go to a local machine shop and explain what you need to have done I can't see them charging too much. I would say under $20. I won't take but 10 minuets in a milling machine. Then you can establish a relation with the shop and who knows the little trinkets that you want to have made you now will have a source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthworm77 Posted July 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 I pulled the trigger and started upgrading my operation. I like the idea of new bait styles, I just hope that this is a quicker way to produce better baits. I essentially sold off all my top pouring molds with the exception of the Del's Kreature, Bob's Buzz Frog and Fat Stick. Revamping everything else though and a few new ones. i hope i don't lose the flexibility to create some wild colors like I had the old school way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerworm Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 craig d. man i havent seen that name in a long time how are you?? i used to buy your tubes all the time off of ebay and i got my first kistler because you reccommended it to me after having elbow surgery in 2002 and then i got started making my own baits then quit for a couple years and start up again only to run into you once again!! man it really is a small world!!hope the change to injection goes well for you as it did for me. even though i still have like 40-50 open pour drop shot molds this injection flat puts the baits out!! good luck and glad to see your still at it!!! jon/pw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthworm77 Posted July 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 Hey Jon, good to hear from you. I still have some of those Heliums, great rods. I also am using quite a few Cumaras now...can't beat that warranty. I'll let you know how this injection process goes for me. I think it will be a decent way to make tubes in different colors but small qty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerworm Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 craig what i did was to buy "x" amount of molds then buy that same amount of mandrels and nosepieces so i could make twice as many baits with 1 color tails before i had to dip them...did that make sense at all?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
