Peterjay Posted June 29, 2010 Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 who else thinks the jig/wire baits section of T.U. is kind of dead? Almost all of the post are about Powder coating and just about all the answers can be found using the search feature of this site.... I don't know how many of you guys have AC in your work areas, but I poured some tin last week, and it was hot enough in my shop to cook a pot roast. Just too miserable to work out there, and we're close enough to the ocean that it's usually fairly cool here. Tough to think about pouring when it's this hot. I caught myself wishing it was winter before I came to my senses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatsrat76 Posted June 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I don't know how many of you guys have AC in your work areas, but I poured some tin last week, and it was hot enough in my shop to cook a pot roast. Just too miserable to work out there, and we're close enough to the ocean that it's usually fairly cool here. Tough to think about pouring when it's this hot. I caught myself wishing it was winter before I came to my senses. I hear ya about it being hot out, 90s here with high humidity. How do you like pouring tin vs lead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I don't know how many of you guys have AC in your work areas, but I poured some tin last week, and it was hot enough in my shop to cook a pot roast. Just too miserable to work out there, and we're close enough to the ocean that it's usually fairly cool here. Tough to think about pouring when it's this hot. I caught myself wishing it was winter before I came to my senses. I pour in my garage and even in the summer it gets hot and humid in there. Whether it's summer or winter I still wear a long sleeve flannel shirt and long pants and it can get very uncomfortable with that on. My biggest concern in the summer is getting a drop of sweat in the lead pot. I tried years ago to pour in the summer with a short sleeve shirt and shorts on. It's just not a smart idea. So I suffer with the long sleeves and long pants. There is a plus to this though. I sweat so much I loose about 5 lbs of water weight. I much rather pour in winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterjay Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I hear ya about it being hot out, 90s here with high humidity. How do you like pouring tin vs lead? I haven't poured lead in a long time, but there isn't a great deal of difference that I can think of, at least as far as casting qualities go. Tin melts at a lower temperature and doesn't have the associated health risks that lead carries. It's 2/3 the weight of lead and doesn't need painting - in fact, tin has a natural fishy-looking sheen that doesn't require much aside from an occasional polishing. For the kind of stuff I do, it's a no-brainer. The only downside is the cost compared to lead, but the 2.5 ounce lures in the picture cost less than $2.50 apiece for materials. Considering what quality store-bought saltwater lures are going for these days, it's not bad at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogajiga Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 The intricate hydrodynamics of the slab bottom(?) are beyond my understanding. Are those lift indents in the front and is the split front keel designed to minimize spin? Are you pouring with pure tin or an alloy? Any problem with the brass eyes deforming? Lotsa questions, thank you for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 I think this forum isn't what it used to be either. I do saltwater stuff, so most of what was talked about didn't really apply to me. Not to much spinner bait usage for me lol. I'm pouring about 300 to 400 jigs a every other week for Spec rigs right now, (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 oz., no hair) plus tying Flounder, Weakfish, Tautog, croaker, spot rigs, and do surf rigs and jigs up to 3oz. on request with hair. I try to have most stuff tied before May/June, but I bought a new Shad Head mold last fall, and I can barely keep up with demand right now because people want them for Spec rigs for Gulp Alive for Flounder. I'm a full time Printer, and do this on the side lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterjay Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 HJ, I use pure tin for all my casting. I haven't had a problem with the eyelets so far. There's a company in RI that specializes in this type of lure based on old-time designs - they use brass eyelets, which is where I got the idea. I was going to use a drilled hole/grommet setup on my tins until I saw what they were doing. The hydrodynamics are the result of a lot of experimenting over the winter with traditional and non-traditional designs. I came up with the front grooves in an effort to produce a side-to-side wobble and maybe a little lift - the original prototype didn't have much of a raised center keel and had great action, but was unstable and spun way too easily. The higher I built the center keel, the more stable it became and the action didn't really suffer. I don't pretend to understand the dynamics completely other than the fact that they work. The top side of the lure is concave - how much difference that makes, I'm not sure, but it doesn't hurt. I have a few other designs that utilize somewhat similar grooves, and they work pretty well also. My original prototypes are made from Sculpey - if they show promise, I move up to a heavier clay, and if that works, then I make a mold. Lots more failures than successes, that's for sure. Fortunately, there's a pond in back of our house for testing purposes - otherwise, I would have run out of gas money long before I got anything built. (LOL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatsrat76 Posted July 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 I think this forum isn't what it used to be either. I do saltwater stuff, so most of what was talked about didn't really apply to me. Not to much spinner bait usage for me lol. I'm pouring about 300 to 400 jigs a every other week for Spec rigs right now, (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 oz., no hair) plus tying Flounder, Weakfish, Tautog, croaker, spot rigs, and do surf rigs and jigs up to 3oz. on request with hair. I try to have most stuff tied before May/June, but I bought a new Shad Head mold last fall, and I can barely keep up with demand right now because people want them for Spec rigs for Gulp Alive for Flounder. I'm a full time Printer, and do this on the side lol. Its nice to see other saltwater guys here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogajiga Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 PJ, brass is OK, but I've switched to stainless steel eyelets for SW trolling sinkers. Based on a few years experience shaping surfboards, I know that compared to flat surfaces, concaves increase water pressure on wetted surfaces, & channels directionally relieve it. So, I would speculate that a top concave would complement a keel resisting spin, and would resist vertical rise when the slab is running horizontally. Probably, the reduced mass of a concave vs. flat top slab would liven the action, and possibly(stretching here) create extra running turbulence which may or may not be attractive. Great improvements - must get your share! BLT, was that a custom shad head mold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 BLT, was that a custom shad head mold? What is funny....no, it's just a plain Do-it shad head jig for saltwater. Eagle Claw 635 hooks. (just had 3000 more hooks show up yesterday) I also sell a lot of Spec rigs tied with 1/8-1/4 oz. bullet head jigs, and different types of Fin-S 2.5" shads on them. I don't use them myself, they use the thin wire hooks, and I like something with a little more umph to them. A lot of people that tie in my area buy hooks pre tied, buck tails pre dyed, I do everything myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Its nice to see other saltwater guys here Yep, make the 130 mile ride every other weekend to deliver tackle and fish if time permits. I need to start learning more about local fresh water fishing in my area of Pa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterjay Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 PJ, brass is OK, but I've switched to stainless steel eyelets for SW trolling sinkers. Based on a few years experience shaping surfboards, I know that compared to flat surfaces, concaves increase water pressure on wetted surfaces, & channels directionally relieve it. So, I would speculate that a top concave would complement a keel resisting spin, and would resist vertical rise when the slab is running horizontally. Probably, the reduced mass of a concave vs. flat top slab would liven the action, and possibly(stretching here) create extra running turbulence which may or may not be attractive. Great improvements - must get your share! BLT, was that a custom shad head mold? I think you're right about SS eyelets being a wiser choice. I'll probably make the switch if I can work up the ambition to send Barlow's a check. And thanks for the info on dynamics - what you say makes sense. If I could figure out stuff like that on my own, the folks who make Sculpey wouldn't be sending me thank you notes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogajiga Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 BLT, have you considered modifying your Bullet Jig mold for heavier hooks? 635s work way better than light wire for SW in my 1/8 & 1/4 Do-it Walleye jigs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 (edited) BLT, have you considered modifying your Bullet Jig mold for heavier hooks? 635s work way better than light wire for SW in my 1/8 & 1/4 Do-it Walleye jigs. I use a Shad Head jig for the 635s. The 1/8 and 1/4 oz bullet heads with the light wire hook I sell with the 2.5" Fin-S already on them as a spec/tandem rig. The Shad Head mold is a Do-it mold. Edited July 5, 2010 by BLT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Maxwell Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 Just to reply to original Question, "Dead". As I enjoy making jigs, buzzbaits, and spinnerbaits more than other lures I always read this forum and always find something new that assists me in my quest, and I need all the help I can get. Thanks everyone. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
