floydfire Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 I new to this any help would be great. I'm using createx paints but should I use a primer on the plastic baits after I sand the baits prior to applying the basecoat? I have been sanding with a scotchbrite pad and then applying the createx paint but Im having some paint peeling from the making that I'm doing. I researched the search engine on the topcoats I want to spray my baits is there a clearcoat that I can use straight on the createx paints? Any help would be great and thanksahead of time. By the way there are some of the best baits I've ever seen hope to only be half as good as some on here you guys are very talented thanks again for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 I lightly sand, shoot acrylic colors, and dip baits in Dick Nite moisture cured polyurethane. No "primer". Alternatively, many guys brush on an epoxy topcoat versus the Dick Nite. There are not many topcoats durable enough for crankbaits. The above alternatives are the only ones I've found that I'm happy with. The Dick Nite is particularly good on plastic baits because it looks and performs like a "factory finish". And unlike two part auto clearcoats, it doesn't require a full face mask to protect you against toxic isocyanates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 I use the same process for painting and clear coating that BobP does and get good results. Are you cleaning the bait after sanding and before applying paint? After sanding I wash my baits in hot water (as hot as I can stand holding my hands in) and Dawn dish washing soap using a toothbrush to scrub it with. After washing the bait I clip a pair of hemostats onto the bait and rinse it using just the hot water straight from the tap. The hemostats are used before the final rinse to make sure I don't have to touch the bait with my bare hands which can transfer body oils back onto the freshly cleaned bait. Then the bait is carried to the work bench where I blow off the excess water and dry it using a heat gun set on low. Once the bait is cleaned it's never touched with bare hands again until after the painting and clear coating is finished. Taping off the diving lip is done with the bait held by an exacto knife handle and a small hobby vise. The exacto knife handle is clamped onto the baits hook hanger and then the handle is placed into the vise. I don't use a "primer" on plastic bodied baits, but do apply a base coat which is usually white so the colors that follow will show up much better and be brighter. I scuff my bait withs 220 and 400 grit sandpaper and haven't tried the scotch brite pads so can't really say anything about these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 For repaints of plastic cranks, I scrape and sand as much paint off as I can manage, and then I do a quick dip in acetone. For new, unpainted cranks, like the ones from Predator Bass, I skip the sanding altogether, and go right to the acetone dip. Acetone is the solvent for most cranks' plastic, but a quick dip only exposes a virgin surface without damaging the crank itself. If the crank has a bill, I hold it by the bill when I dip it, and then let it drip dry, hanging from a paper clip. I wear a throwaway latex glove on my left hand when I paint, so I never touch the crank with my bear hands once it's been dipped. I mask the bill after dipping, and then paint. I spray Createx right over the bare plastic, and don't have adhesion problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...