Basic Spinnerbait Questions

[Fernet]

Things about spinnerbaits that does'nt much sence to me.

How come ball bearing swivels are always used on the end blade. I can't see how the extra cost can justify the small if any, performance gain than if using a good quality barrel.

Why is the loop attaching the swivel to the wire arm never nicely wrapped closed?

Why is there never a collar for securing plastic trailers.

Why in the world is the R-bend so popular when it leads to so many hang-ups when not tying the line directly to the wire.

Of course there is probably exceptions but the above seems to be more or less a standard from what I have noticed.

[smalljaw]

The answer to your first question is easy, and that is a barrel swivel doesn't spin as easy so if you want to slow your bait down and fish it along or close to the bottom it'll be very hard sine the blade won't spin on that kind of swivel at very slow speeds. The next problem is grass or weeds, the barrel will get fouled a lot easier. A lot of people use crane swivels which are much cheaper and they spin pretty good for a short time and then you'll notice that you have to start reeling faster to make the blade spin, get a 1 dollar wal mart bait which is equipped with a crane swivel and see what happens after a few hours. Some custom makers actually do wrap the top loop however it isn't required if you make your loop in a way that it is tight against the arm of the bait, mass produced baits seem to have gaps even terminators, I've lost blades and swivels on those. Most good baits have a barb on the back of the head to secure plastics so I'm not sure what you mean by that, and finally the R- bend, most of us tie direct to the bait and the R- bend is great for that, closed loops have the risk of catching line and fouling or breaking off the bait but the closed loop is a better choice for those using snaps or wire leaders for toothy critters.

[timturr]

The answer to your first question is easy, and that is a barrel swivel doesn't spin as easy so if you want to slow your bait down and fish it along or close to the bottom it'll be very hard sine the blade won't spin on that kind of swivel at very slow speeds. The next problem is grass or weeds, the barrel will get fouled a lot easier. A lot of people use crane swivels which are much cheaper and they spin pretty good for a short time and then you'll notice that you have to start reeling faster to make the blade spin, get a 1 dollar wal mart bait which is equipped with a crane swivel and see what happens after a few hours. Some custom makers actually do wrap the top loop however it isn't required if you make your loop in a way that it is tight against the arm of the bait, mass produced baits seem to have gaps even terminators, I've lost blades and swivels on those. Most good baits have a barb on the back of the head to secure plastics so I'm not sure what you mean by that, and finally the R- bend, most of us tie direct to the bait and the R- bend is great for that, closed loops have the risk of catching line and fouling or breaking off the bait but the closed loop is a better choice for those using snaps or wire leaders for toothy critters.

Yep, Smalljaw answered all of your questions. Great answer Smalljaw. The only thing I would add is that you can buy Worth ball bearing swivels for 23 cents apiece. Then add your split rings which cost about 2 cents apiece. For that price there is no reason not to put a premium, American made swivel on your own baits.

[Fernet]

Yes I agree. Good answer indeed. I think the Worth large eye swivel with one ring already attached looks very interesting.

[Fernet]

One other thing I come to think of. When weighting a SP is it the weight of the complete setup with blades that counts or just the body. Yesterday I took a 3/8oz DO-IT Ultra minnow body and the weight was almost doubled with the blades on. Is that still a 3/8 or is it a 3/4 now?

[smalljaw]

A 3/8oz spinnerbait is the weight of the head alone, the skirt and blade weight doesn't count so when you make or buy a 3/8oz or 1/2oz spinnerbait the weight is refering to the size of the head.

[Fernet]

Alright. Seems kinda funny considering rods lure size recommendatons and so. Anyway, thanks for all your wisdom in this thread.

[smalljaw]

Fernet, I though about that quite a few years ago so I contacted the fine folks at G.Loomis about the effect on the rod and I was told that the lure weight is just a guide for the line size recommendation, when selecting a rod use the line size and don't worry much about lure weight, most rods will handle at least 1/4oz above the specified lure weight. I was also told by someone at Strike King that the reason they don't include the blades or skirts on spinnerbait weights is because they don't effect the sink rate and they also don't factor in treble hooks on cranbaits for the same reason although using different size hooks can effect the action of the lure, I'm not sure I buy all of that but that was what I got back from them.