Newb Here With A Question Re: Lead Alloys

[Cabrilla Grande]

First of all I want to say love this site. I have been lurking here for a few months absorbing as much info as I can.

Now for my question:

I already pour my own soft plastics and design the molds/cut them on a CNC.

Now I'm looking to get into making finesse 1/4 oz jig heads to match up with my plastics.

I don't have the mold cut yet, but it's going to have these toolmarks from the small ball end cutter in a beautiful radial pattern.

I want those marks to show up in fine detail.

...but I also want the jig head to be relatively hard/durable and easy to pour.

I just ordered some pouring equipment and also purchased a 5lb pure lead ingot.

This pure lead scratches way too easily, though.

Since I have neighbors which barely tolerate me as is I want to avoid any smoke and what not associated with melting down scrap lead.

So... would any of those alloys that rotometal sells for printing ie linotype or bullet making, ie hardball, be appropriate for my design?

Thanks,

Jeremy.

[psv]

I'd suggest to buy some hard lead (wheel weights, etc) and mix it with soft lead in proportion 60% soft + 40% hard, adjusting percentage until you have perfect results.

Hope it helps.

[BBK]

Try straight up wheel weights and add soft lead if needed.

[Fatman]

For 1/4 oz jig heads I always pour with straight tire weight. But as you want some details to show on the jig head I gotta agree with psv on a mix of pure/tire weight. You'll have to experiment with mix's till you get exactly what you want and when you do write it down in a notebook or even on the handle of the mold so you don't forget it.

Also make sure to keep this mix in a seperate box or ziplock bag marked as to what it's for, that way you'll always have some ready when you want to pour.

fatman

[Cabrilla Grande]

Thanks for the responses, guys.

So basically, just hit up ebay and search for hard lead wheel weight ingots then try to pour it and if it doesn't work mix in some pure stuff.

I can do that. Looks like a less expensive route than buying the rotometal stuff.

[Ogajiga]

CG, make sure the eBay vendors are knowledgeable about avoiding zinc contamination in recycling wheel weight lead. You takes your chances on eBay - I just bought what looked like wire solder that instead appears to be an odd high antimony alloy estimated by weight at 21%.

PM me if you'd like to try some Lyman #2(Pb90-Sn5-Sb5) for more controllable hard lead alloy tinkering. You probably already know - Pb=lead, Sn=tin, Sb=antimony.

[Cabrilla Grande]

PM me if you'd like to try some Lyman #2(Pb90-Sn5-Sb5) for more controllable hard lead alloy tinkering. You probably already know - Pb=lead, Sn=tin, Sb=antimony.

So would you recommend the Lyman #2 over buying wheel weight lead?

I'm just looking for whatever is going to be the easiest to work with.

[BBK]

Try the wheel weights first, I assume these are for personal use, so there is no need to go spending $$$$ on expensive lead.

[Ogajiga]

CG, since you mentioned obtaining pure lead as a starting point, thought you might be interested in creating specific compostion alloys, which Lyman #2 allows - for example mixing equal parts L2 with pure = Pb95 Sn2.5 Sb2.5 which would be approx. the hardness of wheel weights with a higher tin content. You might already know that antimony is a hardener and 2-5%tin generally improves pourability and corrosion resistance.

But, as BBK mentions, clip wheel weight lead is a more economical hard lead solution. My best guess is that clip wheel weight batches will vary between 2-3% antimony and .5-.7% tin.

[Cabrilla Grande]

BBK, I do plan on selling these if I can get them perfect.

I guess I just need to try it, huh.

Thanks guys.