Pouring Spinnerbaits

[flippinfool]

I have over 45 lead molds and have been pouring for 8yrs. All molds have little tricks,tilts,slow or fast pour. I purchased a bullet and arky spinner jig mold and thought no big deal just another mold. Well with wire sticking out, hooks sliding around this have to be the hardest molds so far. Will I learn ? Of course. Things like bad pours and trying to melt the lead off the hook and wire, wires not straight and the list goes on. Just a small rant I did get many of my tips to get started from great members of TU. If If I come up with any brain storms I'll be sure to post. Any one ever try putting a small dot of high temp silicone outside the pouring area for the wire and hook to keep them steady ?

Regards,

Flippinfool

[Maddoglures]

I have over 45 lead molds and have been pouring for 8yrs. All molds have little tricks,tilts,slow or fast pour. I purchased a bullet and arky spinner jig mold and thought no big deal just another mold. Well with wire sticking out, hooks sliding around this have to be the hardest molds so far. Will I learn ? Of course. Things like bad pours and trying to melt the lead off the hook and wire, wires not straight and the list goes on. Just a small rant I did get many of my tips to get started from great members of TU. If If I come up with any brain storms I'll be sure to post. Any one ever try putting a small dot of high temp silicone outside the pouring area for the wire and hook to keep them steady ?

Regards,

Flippinfool

With all the differant wire diameters, for spinnerbait and buzzbait wire you will just have to make few adjustments to the Hook slot and wire slot.

This has always worked for me.

you can use a center punch or just a small screwdriver.

Put some punch marks on each side of the slot, this will expand the slots closed.

You will have to file down the over burden that sticks up.

Good Luck, this will work.

[smalljaw]

I like to use wire diameters that are smaller than what my mold calls for but then the wire is loose and slides down but I found a solution and maybe it will help you. I go to the hardware store and get some heat resistant tape, I tried aluminum foil and while it worked it was slow going because I had to keep adjusting it after every pour, anyway put a small piece of tape over the wire area of the mold and then place your wire and hook in the mold, the tape will compress and keep the wire tight in the slot and still allow the mold to close so you won't get any flash.

[Jig Man]

I like to use wire diameters that are smaller than what my mold calls for but then the wire is loose and slides down but I found a solution and maybe it will help you. I go to the hardware store and get some heat resistant tape, I tried aluminum foil and while it worked it was slow going because I had to keep adjusting it after every pour, anyway put a small piece of tape over the wire area of the mold and then place your wire and hook in the mold, the tape will compress and keep the wire tight in the slot and still allow the mold to close so you won't get any flash.

I do the same thing for some custom wire weedguards but I use duct tape and it work just fine.

Edited August 24, 2010 by Jig Man

[Fernet]

flippinfool. I use high temp silicone in some of my molds. It works great and I could'nt do without it. I even put the silicone in direct contact with the molten metal with no problems. However, I do not use lead but Bismuth Tin. Pouring temp is probably no more than 250-300°C (heat setting 4 on lee pot). You should have no problems using silicone away from the cavity. Fill the cavity, wait until the surface just starts to dry up and then press down a hook (easier to remove hook if surface's a bit dry first).